Important

[XJosh95]

There's nothing in the DPF exhaust side of the engine that has any mechanical consequences.

Deleting the DPF portion of the exhaust is as simple as installing a regular exhaust system and uploading a computer program that eliminates the check engine light and the DPF recharging or whatever you call it.

The reason it was all smoke and mirrors a couple of years ago was because the diesel tuners hadn't had an opportunity with the new software to rewrite the DPF out of the program. So people were taking the exhaust off and living with the check engine light, but the computer was pissed when it didn't get the information it was looking for.

Now that the tuners have had a couple of years to chew on it, you just upload a custom tune and take the exhaust off.

Now, the custom tune part will get you in trouble with the dealership. . .

Makes sense. I'm a light duty tech so I don't see too much of that. I guess it's like tossing on a high flow exhaust. Plus, you wouldn't have to keep one of the ugly tips on to cool EGT at exit. And with the custom tune getting you in trouble at the dealer, with GM's ECMs, they store x-amount (I think 7) of the last program numbers. So, to avoid the scan tool from being able to know you've reprogrammed it for more power, you'd have to wipe it out with a factory code that number of times. Then it gets dangerous. Our modules will often lock up, burn out or whatever you want to call it when they've been programmed only a couple times. Kinda like a self-destruct letter Inspector Gadget would get.

 

[RedHeep]

Makes sense. I'm a light duty tech so I don't see too much of that. I guess it's like tossing on a high flow exhaust. Plus, you wouldn't have to keep one of the ugly tips on to cool EGT at exit. And with the custom tune getting you in trouble at the dealer, with GM's ECMs, they store x-amount (I think 7) of the last program numbers. So, to avoid the scan tool from being able to know you've reprogrammed it for more power, you'd have to wipe it out with a factory code that number of times. Then it gets dangerous. Our modules will often lock up, burn out or whatever you want to call it when they've been programmed only a couple times. Kinda like a self-destruct letter Inspector Gadget would get.

Can't say anything about GM stuff, but I know that the Ford stuff tracks key counts.

But I've never had anyone say anything. When the high pressure oil pump went out, I loaded the stock software and drove it over to the dealership. Maybe the guy knew, maybe he didn't, but nobody said anything.

I change the programs on the Ford all the time, never had any issues.

 

[XJosh95]

Maybe some motivation to buy a Ford or go to your dealership?

 

[macgyvr]

25 psi straight and level?

That's a whole lot of boost for what you're towing.

With the 34 footer on the back of my truck I was only seeing 10 psi at 70 mph. It sounds like you've got more going on than just deep gears. You shouldn't be seeing boost like that unless you were needing some serious power, like uphill at highway speeds.

Maybe the 6.4 is way different than my 6.0. What kinds of boost do you see unloaded?

Well I haven't driven the truck without a trailer except for a couple of trips around town and i can keep it below 20 psi keeping my foot out of it. believing that its a fairly straight road its pulling right around 25psi with the trailer at 70mph...the 6.4 is not known for fuel mileage already, but i would be happy with 8...

i still want to put a truck camper on this pig...

the diesel techs are pretty cool at the dealer, they know what's up and they are ready for the new motors because they don't have to deal with international, only ford for the warranty stuff. they told me the new motor is getting better fuel economy and they are putting gears in as low at 2.72 in the diesels because of the 700lbs of torque the new motor is offering.

i'm also not looking for a tune, just would be a straight delete, this truck has PLEANTY of power on tap. the tech also told me that the motor would probably last longer with a delete kit because of how the motor gets overfueled on the regen cycle, he said the oil at 5k looks like road tar compared to the 6.0 oil after 5k.

i'm going to do some digging...first i'll see how this additive works out.

mac 'diesel might be clean, but not afraid of fuel' gyvr

 

[IllianaXJ]

With all the emissions BS they're throwing on diesels now, it makes me love my 96 Chevy even more. I may only see 12-13 psi of boost max, but I can still get 12.5 mpg towing the Jeep. Granted, it would be pissed about trying to tow a 34' enclosed with 2 rigs in it.

 

[seanR]

Mac, I didn't know you had a 6.4.
Sorry to hear that...
You are right, they are not known for MPG.

 

[Rev Den]

Mac.....if 65 wont do it...slow down to 60. Drive with the pedal in the hills, do not use the cruise 'cept on flat ground. You did remember to engage the "Tow Mode" right??

I have been doing some reading on the DPF delete and tunes also, think I will keep mine on a while.

Rev

 

[macgyvr]

Mac.....if 65 wont do it...slow down to 60. Drive with the pedal in the hills, do not use the cruise 'cept on flat ground. You did remember to engage the "Tow Mode" right??

I have been doing some reading on the DPF delete and tunes also, think I will keep mine on a while.

Rev

Rev I have slowed them down from the days of 80 to 85mph towing...I'm not going to get them much below 70...plus I'm not always driving...the fuel budget was for 8mpg...this truck should get that going 70mph...we just split the amount over (not filled up yet but should be about 80 bucks over for this AL trip)...

tow mode is always engaged...i'm telling you the 4.88s are what's killing this truck...if it had 4.30 gears it would spin the same at 70 that it is at 65...

let me know what your dpf delete findings find...

mac 'otherwise the truck is very nice' gyvr

 

[w_howey]

i'm also not looking for a tune, just would be a straight delete, this truck has PLEANTY of power on tap. the tech also told me that the motor would probably last longer with a delete kit because of how the motor gets overfueled on the regen cycle, he said the oil at 5k looks like road tar compared to the 6.0 oil after 5k.

i'm going to do some digging...first i'll see how this additive works out.

mac 'diesel might be clean, but not afraid of fuel' gyvr

Amsoil changed our extended drain intervals on the current crop of regen motors due to the fuel dilution issues on all three manufacturers engines. No more extended drain interval recommendations at all. We are told to recommend the factory intervals only now.

 

[97XJ2]

Motorcycle out this weekend, it was a blast to be back out there. When riding through the country got lost, found, and an afternoon later I had to park it, bummer.

Picked up the new ride as well, the thing is a blast to drive. Ended up running against a s-10 blazer yesterday when I got back to point. I don't think he noticed the 4.7 L HO badge till it was way too late

 

[XJ&CHZ4ME]

ran the weedeater for about 3 hours this evening around the barns/sheds and corrals...I can hardly stand up now. Ran through 3 tanks of gas and 6 spools of line....I am going to spray round up around all the fence and panels next so I dont have to do that again for a while....

 

[Rev Den]

Did some calculating....

10K Miles a year.
Avg. $3.15 per Gallon fuel cost
7 MPG to 10 MPG would save you......$1350/Year

that would pay for a tuner and DPF delete in a year or so....and allow you to bank the extra just in case you need work that the dealer will not cover.

Of course....I also have been reading that the truck will do better at 55-60 then 65. I think I will just keep driving slow, and banking the extra cash.

The trick is keep the boost as low as possible, if that means 50 in the hills then so be it. It also means not allowing the cruise to grab the throttle.

Mac - since you bought it used....check the following:

Charge air cooler - Make sure it is not leaking
Tires - Make sure they are up to pressure and the correct type, maybe switch to a lower rolling resistance tire.
Change the fuel filters
Check the air filter gauge, make sure it is not telling you to change it.

Rev

 

[BRIANHO13]

Keep telling him to slow down and he will get passed by a big green bus doing 65 and getting 8-10mpg :rof:

 

[WrenchMonkey]

Keep telling him to slow down and he will get passed by a big green bus doing 65 and getting 8-10mpg :rof:

:laugh2:

Robert

 

[macgyvr]

Did some calculating....

10K Miles a year.
Avg. $3.15 per Gallon fuel cost
7 MPG to 10 MPG would save you......$1350/Year

that would pay for a tuner and DPF delete in a year or so....and allow you to bank the extra just in case you need work that the dealer will not cover.

Of course....I also have been reading that the truck will do better at 55-60 then 65. I think I will just keep driving slow, and banking the extra cash.

The trick is keep the boost as low as possible, if that means 50 in the hills then so be it. It also means not allowing the cruise to grab the throttle.

Mac - since you bought it used....check the following:

Charge air cooler - Make sure it is not leaking
Tires - Make sure they are up to pressure and the correct type, maybe switch to a lower rolling resistance tire.
Change the fuel filters
Check the air filter gauge, make sure it is not telling you to change it.

Rev

70 is the speed for towing...the truck should not be turning 2600 rpms at 70...it should be turning around 2100...if it were around 2100 i should be getting really close to 8mpg...8mpg is the rate at which the fuel is paid for by the sponsor (Badlands Offroad park, another shameless plug)...

but finding 4.30 gears affordably priced may prove to be a problem...

thanks for the tips rev, the air filter guage is good, air filter was recently replaced on a dealer service visit (prior owner), i just changed the fuel filters right before this last trip (they are supposed to be changed every 10k), the tires are 'G' rated 19.5 rim size commercial tires...you can't get much less rolling resistance than that...i don't know what you mean by charge air cooler.

with a 14k trailer the boost guage is never under 20psi unless you are going down hill not touching the gas...

mac 't-minus 14 hours for leaving for PA' gyvr

 

[GoSlowGetStuck]

i don't know what you mean by charge air cooler.

He means the intercooler... though if that had a leak you would probably be seeing a lot less boost.

 

[Rev Den]

Even G rated tires can vary widely for rolling resistance. let me know the size, brand, and model and I can run the numbers.

You are probably right though, that truck sounds like it was spec'd for lower speed work. New gears would still save you money in the long run.

Rev

 

[GoSlowGetStuck]

It does appear that 4.30 and 4.88 are your only options. Not sure if you had a F350 if your options would be any better (with the Dana 80). Haven't looked into it.

I saw at least one forum post where a guy had swapped 4.30s and didn't gain any mileage out of it. It's too bad that the 6.4s are so bad on fuel.

For what it's worth, the new 6.7 will have enough torque to rip a McDonalds in half, get about 20MPG at GCWR and be quieter than a Honda at idle.

 

[macgyvr]

It does appear that 4.30 and 4.88 are your only options. Not sure if you had a F350 if your options would be any better (with the Dana 80). Haven't looked into it.

I saw at least one forum post where a guy had swapped 4.30s and didn't gain any mileage out of it. It's too bad that the 6.4s are so bad on fuel.

For what it's worth, the new 6.7 will have enough torque to rip a McDonalds in half, get about 20MPG at GCWR and be quieter than a Honda at idle.

I average 2.5 years for keeping my trucks...i'd like to keep this one around 4 years, get it to just around 100k, sell it off and look at the 11s and 12s that will be a couple years old, and should have the bugs worked out...by then we'll know if this racing thing is going to stick around...

rev, i forgot to add that when i went to the badlands with it in april i just towed the single place with the baby jeep, that trip was a 60 to 65 mile an hour trip with only about 7k in trailer, i was able to keep the boost in check a little better and got 9mpg...

i still say if i can do 4.30s for less than a grand (dreaming, but i do have a gear guy...need a wrecked truck thats being parted out) it will help in the long run...

mac 'soon to find out how much help fuel additive will be' gyvr

p.s. where is this post on the 488 to 430 swap?

 

[macgyvr]

Even G rated tires can vary widely for rolling resistance. let me know the size, brand, and model and I can run the numbers.

You are probably right though, that truck sounds like it was spec'd for lower speed work. New gears would still save you money in the long run.

Rev

The tires are a 225/70/19.5 Continental Tire, they are regrooveable...i'm scared what they cost new...thankfully they have plenty of tread...if there is a model name I would have to look, I dont have the truck in front of me at the moment.

mac 'small semi' gyvr