Important

[BRIANHO13]

Yea, but... variable geometry turbos make sweet noises

I have found a few 7.3s worth looking at, they are the tried and true motor. The 6.0 gets me in a little newer and faster truck though.

I could get a Ford and with my luck, turn around and need ball joints and eww-joints and injectors and who knows what else, and still have a truck payment.

Or I could get rear discs and all new steering junk on the 'burb and it may help, or it may not. And then if I sell it anyway I'm out all that money.

I'd also be very interested in something with an 8.1 Vortec, but apparently all the 8.1 owners want to keep them because I can't find any for sale around here.

I have an 8.1 I would sell.

 

[RedHeep]

Sooo... 6.0 Powerstrokes. They sound good, they look pretty quick, and they had some issues. Presumably bulletproofed means exactly what it sounds like, but are there still common issues that you only find out about after you own one?

Is "bulletproofed" just the EGR delete or does it usually imply that someone did the whole shebang with oil cooler and coolant filter and head studs and all that?

I found an 04 that says "bulletproofed" (heads were checked and it has ARP studs and EGR delete). I'm not looking too seriously at a newer truck but I'm just curious if there's any common issues with them other than what bulletproofing fixes.

Yea, but... variable geometry turbos make sweet noises

I have found a few 7.3s worth looking at, they are the tried and true motor. The 6.0 gets me in a little newer and faster truck though.

I could get a Ford and with my luck, turn around and need ball joints and eww-joints and injectors and who knows what else, and still have a truck payment.

Or I could get rear discs and all new steering junk on the 'burb and it may help, or it may not. And then if I sell it anyway I'm out all that money.

I'd also be very interested in something with an 8.1 Vortec, but apparently all the 8.1 owners want to keep them because I can't find any for sale around here.

talk to josh.

but yeah, studs, egr delete and a new oil cooler and they are mostly reliable. When running correctly they are rocketship fast. Faster than a 9k lb truck ought to be ayway.

03/04 have the old cylinder head design. I would stay away from them unless you owned it for a long time and you knew what kind of maintenance was done to it. 03's in particular have the old egr cooler, but if it's been deleted, probably not an issue.

The 5r110 that came in the trucks starting in '05 is worth the money. Way more stout than the 4r100 and really makes the truck drive nice. I wish I had one in the RV. Mac does and it makes a big difference in how the truck drives.

My 6.0 is puking white smoke, which based on a cylinder balance test and some other troubleshooting, is either an injector or the turbo is stuck. I'm going to clean the turbo this weekend and go from there. 6.0's like frequent oil changes. If you're not comfy with $80 every 3-5000 miles, you're asking for trouble with your HPOP and your injectors.

FICM's tend to destroy themselves because they're mounted to the engine. A FICM that puts out less than 45 volts will cause the injectors not to fire. There's a few places on the net that will reman your FICM so you don't have to spend the $800 on a new one, but it's still something to be concerned about if it's never been changed.

I've owned mine for 100k miles and had the FICM and HPOP replaced under warranty. The heads were off and on before I bought it with 29k miles. I'm not studded, the egr is still there (the valve is off) and I've been running a tune for 6 years. The white smoke issue is the first time it's let me down. 2 trips to moab, multiple trips to WF and Harlan and DD everytime it rains.

If you do your homework and make sure that the used one that you're getting is not someone else's headache, it's a truck that will last a long time. I wouldn't buy one without the ability to hook it up to diagnostics and check the coolant/oil temp delta, the FICM voltage and the ICP pressure. If those look good, it's probably a well taken care of truck. If they don't want to show you those things, I would walk away.

Oh, and out of the box with a computer program, I have a dyno slip for 384 hp/711 tq at the wheels. When they run, they run

 

[RedHeep]

I bet you will find the fuel pump wiring grounding out somewhere. Didn't Josh (RedHeep) have a problem with the O2 sensor wiring melting and taking out the ASD relay too?

I popped a fuse for the ASD when I took out the exhaust on a rock and ripped the harness out of the o2.

I don't think it's a wire grounding out, because we put a 20 amp fuse in it and it runs. It pops a 15 amp fuse, but not on initial startup, only after it's ran for a few minutes. Something is causing an excessive amount of electricity in that circuit. If it was straight grounding out, it would pop everytime you put the key in it.

I still think it's something in the ASD system. The way that relay was clicking on the trail makes me think something is pinging it really hard. Since the ASD controls ignition power to the pump and all the engine stuff, it makes me think something is screwed up in there.

 

[BRIANHO13]

I still think it's something in the ASD system. The way that relay was clicking on the trail makes me think something is pinging it really hard. Since the ASD controls ignition power to the pump and all the engine stuff, it makes me think something is screwed up in there.

I think its the ECU.

 

[*89Laredo*]

Re: Re: Important

Jeep shut down on us on the first day of being in harlan. Kept blowing fuses. Gonna tear more into it tonight to see if i can figure it out.

What year? Do you have an fsm? (Pm me if not)

Did you ever clean the NSS?

That'll keep it from cranking, won't cause a random shutdown though

I bet you will find the fuel pump wiring grounding out somewhere.

Possibility

Yea, but... variable geometry turbos make sweet noises

Yes.

Well. I learned a 145$ lesson. Don't buy a vehicle in Iowa that has been sitting with a plate on it (not reported "in storage" to the county).
They charge you the back fees and a penalty when you go to transfer title.

 

[GoSlowGetStuck]

03/04 have the old cylinder head design. I would stay away from them unless you owned it for a long time and you knew what kind of maintenance was done to it. 03's in particular have the old egr cooler, but if it's been deleted, probably not an issue.

The 5r110 that came in the trucks starting in '05 is worth the money. Way more stout than the 4r100 and really makes the truck drive nice. I wish I had one in the RV. Mac does and it makes a big difference in how the truck drives.

My 6.0 is puking white smoke, which based on a cylinder balance test and some other troubleshooting, is either an injector or the turbo is stuck. I'm going to clean the turbo this weekend and go from there. 6.0's like frequent oil changes. If you're not comfy with $80 every 3-5000 miles, you're asking for trouble with your HPOP and your injectors.

FICM's tend to destroy themselves because they're mounted to the engine. A FICM that puts out less than 45 volts will cause the injectors not to fire. There's a few places on the net that will reman your FICM so you don't have to spend the $800 on a new one, but it's still something to be concerned about if it's never been changed.

I've owned mine for 100k miles and had the FICM and HPOP replaced under warranty. The heads were off and on before I bought it with 29k miles. I'm not studded, the egr is still there (the valve is off) and I've been running a tune for 6 years. The white smoke issue is the first time it's let me down. 2 trips to moab, multiple trips to WF and Harlan and DD everytime it rains.

If you do your homework and make sure that the used one that you're getting is not someone else's headache, it's a truck that will last a long time. I wouldn't buy one without the ability to hook it up to diagnostics and check the coolant/oil temp delta, the FICM voltage and the ICP pressure. If those look good, it's probably a well taken care of truck. If they don't want to show you those things, I would walk away.

Oh, and out of the box with a computer program, I have a dyno slip for 384 hp/711 tq at the wheels. When they run, they run

100,000 miles of ownership... that is the kind of review I needed! Good to know about checking FICM/ICP on a test drive. I have AutoEnginuity and the Ford enhanced bundle so no problems there.

At least I know what to look for before I buy one, instead of figuring it all out after I own it like usual. Thanks for taking the time to explain everything.

 

[POLAR_JEEP_04]

Not true. My NSS had I one of connections stuck in and it kept blowing fuses. Took hours on the trail to figure it out. It was throwing transmission solenoid codes though. Reverse code I think.

 

[*89Laredo*]

I've never heard of that. Just the typical no crank. You could unplug it and jump the terminals to see if that's the cause.

 

[Jeepguy91]

I'm going to take a hard look at the FSM and jennies and see what else that fuse powers.

I still suspect injectors because of the way the PCM was trying to pull a ridiculous amount of fuel.
If you want me to flat rate box these ones back to you say the word. At least you'd have them for diagnostic purposes.

Nah i should be ok without them. thanks tho.

Im gonna start going thru all the wiring under the hood tonight to make sure that nothing within the fuel pump circuit is grounding out that way i can narrow it down a little bit. Just still trying to figure out what would make the asd relay pop the first time, and then just keep blowing the 15 amp fuse every time after that. Some of the stuff i have read is saying to look at the back of the fuel rail where the wires go. Guess they tend to get chaffed on it and ground out. Guess its a starting location.

 

[altrocker1]

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/4518702476.html

i doubt this is still there

ad is 25 days old, but i called and emailed the guy.

 

[RedHeep]

100,000 miles of ownership... that is the kind of review I needed! Good to know about checking FICM/ICP on a test drive. I have AutoEnginuity and the Ford enhanced bundle so no problems there.

At least I know what to look for before I buy one, instead of figuring it all out after I own it like usual. Thanks for taking the time to explain everything.

If you have AE, then run an injector buzz test and a cylinder balance test. That's the easiest way to determine if you have injector problems. You can track ICP pressure and FICM voltage on the data page.

 

[Jeepguy91]

About to see if my weed wacker runs...

mac 'missing Harlan' gyvr

That reminds me that i need get started on gettin my yard back under control. Darn grass grows to fast

 

[*89Laredo*]

I need to do ours too. Front mount+always windy+no deflector=covered in grass

 

[MKR5150]

I let the rider sit all winter with flats now all but one tire has dry rot rips in the side walls. Granted the tires are 20yrs old or older but push mowing sucks.

 

[Jeepguy91]

Well started going thru the wiring on the Jeep. Found a wire that goes to the fuel pump relay was grinding itself out on the fuel rail. Got that fixed and tried to start it and now I got a check engine light for the camshaft sensor. Looks like I will be replacing that now.

 

[macgyvr]

Been wacking for four hours.

Have another hour to go.

Weed and grass killer in the next day or so and I shouldn't need to wack again til next year.

mac 'slowly winning the battle' gyvr

 

[scoobyxj]

Yea, but... variable geometry turbos make sweet noises

I have found a few 7.3s worth looking at, they are the tried and true motor. The 6.0 gets me in a little newer and faster truck though.

I could get a Ford and with my luck, turn around and need ball joints and eww-joints and injectors and who knows what else, and still have a truck payment.

Or I could get rear discs and all new steering junk on the 'burb and it may help, or it may not. And then if I sell it anyway I'm out all that money.

I'd also be very interested in something with an 8.1 Vortec, but apparently all the 8.1 owners want to keep them because I can't find any for sale around here.

What year is the Burb? I'm guessing OBS since you mentioned getting rear disks. If it is a NBS you can bolt on NNBS front brake hardware, and gain a fairly significant upgrade in breaking power for under $500 using pretty much all new parts. You will need 17in wheels though. Also its fairly easy to get 350/400hp out of a 5.3ltr with a cam, long tubes, intake, and a tune from Blackbear performance. If its an 00-04 you can also swap out the mech fan for an 05-06 oem electric to gain some power/low speed cooling. It's for the most part plug, and play on the 03-04s, but you'll need either a tune (Blackbear), or have a shop with a Tech2 ability to activate the circuit on the PCM. f you have a 00-02 you'll either have to build a custom harness, or buy one.

 

[87manche]

http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/cto/4489142573.html

8.1 4x4 with 100K miles
10 grand, from the land of no rust.

http://swva.craigslist.org/cto/4531505198.html

150k mile 4x4 5 grand.

just put a gallon and a half of coolant in the racecar.
That can't be good.

 

[IllianaXJ]

What year is the Burb? I'm guessing OBS since you mentioned getting rear disks. If it is a NBS you can bolt on NNBS front brake hardware, and gain a fairly significant upgrade in breaking power for under $500 using pretty much all new parts. You will need 17in wheels though. Also its fairly easy to get 350/400hp out of a 5.3ltr with a cam, long tubes, intake, and a tune from Blackbear performance. If its an 00-04 you can also swap out the mech fan for an 05-06 oem electric to gain some power/low speed cooling. It's for the most part plug, and play on the 03-04s, but you'll need either a tune (Blackbear), or have a shop with a Tech2 ability to activate the circuit on the PCM. f you have a 00-02 you'll either have to build a custom harness, or buy one.

Brad's is a 98 7.4L.

 

[altrocker1]

http://www.vermont-unimog.com/tatra813-EO1.html