- Location
- NE Indiana
Important
- Thread starter bshaw
- Start date
- Location
- Michigan
kmanxj5050
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Reed City Michigan
So I am going to replace my front leaf spring bushings when I replace my ball joints on the f two fiddy. I hear on the interwebs that poly bushings are the devil and you wont be able to hear yourself think while going down the road. How much truth is there to this?? I am looking for actual experiences.
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
Re: Re: Important
I have poly bushings all over in the xj...the squeak like a mofo and gets better or worse depending on the temperature. Doesn't really bother me though...it does make me laugh a little though going over bumpy roads in the city. People look at me like my jeep is coming apart. They're not bad but I'm going back to rubber after I put the new leafs in that are sitting in the back of the jeep...
Alt "squeak squwak" rocker1
I have poly bushings all over in the xj...the squeak like a mofo and gets better or worse depending on the temperature. Doesn't really bother me though...it does make me laugh a little though going over bumpy roads in the city. People look at me like my jeep is coming apart. They're not bad but I'm going back to rubber after I put the new leafs in that are sitting in the back of the jeep...
Alt "squeak squwak" rocker1
- Location
- NE Indiana
I would put stock bushings back in the f two fiddy...
you'll want that for a dd
mac 'they lasted this long' gyvr
you'll want that for a dd
mac 'they lasted this long' gyvr
- Location
- Lafayette, IN
Another vote for rubber bushings. It's not like you're flexing it out and putting a lot of unusual forces or wear on them other than the TTB forces, which aren't that great anyway because the springs are so stiff. New rubber bushings at this point will probably outlast the vehicle.
Having said that, also look into replacing the (teflon?) pads between the springs if they are worn. Back when I had my 250 I even considered buying brand new stock leafs for the front, they weren't horribly priced I don't think.
Had poly bushings on my ZJ and they were annoying... and I even expect some annoyances from a trail rig.
Having said that, also look into replacing the (teflon?) pads between the springs if they are worn. Back when I had my 250 I even considered buying brand new stock leafs for the front, they weren't horribly priced I don't think.
Had poly bushings on my ZJ and they were annoying... and I even expect some annoyances from a trail rig.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
get good ones no matter what... preferably OEM. OEM lasted this long, like Mac said... I got aftermarket rubber UCA bushings for my MJ and they are already cracking and crumbling a few months later. The used OEM ones that came with the front axle lasted years longer than that even with me driving it more and abusing it more.
- Location
- NE Indiana
The guy I bought the LJ from had a complete set of front oem bushings for it. I'm going to swap them when I go to a reverse 30 front.
mac 'only one squeak right now' gyvr
mac 'only one squeak right now' gyvr
- Location
- Michigan
^ I was there to witness the one squeak.
I know this is an apples to oranges comparison sort of, but when I ordered my brown dog motor mounts I went with the rubber bushings for vibration insulation because I'm hoping this season a lot more road time
I know this is an apples to oranges comparison sort of, but when I ordered my brown dog motor mounts I went with the rubber bushings for vibration insulation because I'm hoping this season a lot more road time
kmanxj5050
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Reed City Michigan
No doubt on them lasting a long time, they were shot when i bought it. Im going to go with the duralast brand ones, $48 and lifetime warranty. Moogs are $68 and only 1 year. I did price new stock leaves and they were $3-400.
k "hit 290,000 miles yesterday" man
k "hit 290,000 miles yesterday" man
- Location
- Michigan
Let's have a paint discussion.
In the past I used a rattle can to paint my axles, what would you use?
My original thought was to buy a paint gun and do it nice and pretty, but the more I think about it the more I'm thinking of using primer/Rust Oleum rattlecan.
Engine paint?
Have you guys had better luck with one type of high temperature paint then another?
In the past I used a rattle can to paint my axles, what would you use?
My original thought was to buy a paint gun and do it nice and pretty, but the more I think about it the more I'm thinking of using primer/Rust Oleum rattlecan.
Engine paint?
Have you guys had better luck with one type of high temperature paint then another?
POLAR_JEEP_04
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ohio
Rust olem hammered
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I use rustoleum hammered on anything I'm too lazy for brushing...
... Hammerite otherwise.
I paint my engine with congealed road grime and oil sludge using a variety of seals. It's a self refreshing rust prevention system.
... Hammerite otherwise.
I paint my engine with congealed road grime and oil sludge using a variety of seals. It's a self refreshing rust prevention system.
kmanxj5050
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Reed City Michigan
I used the Duplicolor engine paint before. Grabber Green!!!!! on my 355 in my chevy and the 4.0 in my old 2001. Worked really good on the chevy, and not good on the 4.0. Because like anything it's all in the prep. The 355 with through a good hot tank and the guy that did my 4.0 wasn't the best.
kmanxj5050
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Reed City Michigan
I am also curious on the axle paint, seeing as I am going to be putting the HP D30 in the baby jeep and want to make it nice, but I don't want to sand blast the whole thing.
- Location
- NE Indiana
mac 'fify' gyvr
POLAR_JEEP_04
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ohio
Haha that too!
- Location
- Warsaw, IN
Gonna rattle can my axles Saturday.
- Location
- Michigan
I'm going to sandblast my axles and my engine block
Fore 'have new blaster' Wheeler
Fore 'have new blaster' Wheeler
