terrehautian
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Terre Haute
First time I used cheap parts (cheapest hubs from Autozone), second time I used Timken units.
I've been told the same thing about those engines. We had the 3400 in our Venture van, and never had any issues out of it, but we suspected the gasket was done before we got it. Thing got great gas mileage as long as you kept your foot out of it. It didn't run to bad for a van either. Better than this POS Chrysler we got now! The F-ing Jeep gets better gas mileage than that thing.if you buy the good intake gasket the first time you replace it, you will not have problems there after. the problem is not with the engines, it is with the factory intake gasket
Yep. Starting to be JK this and JK that. I seem to remember the same thing happening in 97 with the TJ.
Who closed down?
Top passenger side bolt. I have the motor dropped down a couple inches thanks to taking off the motormounts. I can't see the bolt head from down below as there is too many wires in the way. I can't get to it from the top yet, just can't get my hand in there. So Jennie is going to help me this morning then I should have the stroker in by this evening and maybe even running.
I'm curious as to the frequency of your leaks. If a 60* 3.1, 3.4, 3100, 3400 (yes, there are significant differences in the "point" and XX00 series engines), 3800 engines will not only run fine but continue to be relatively repair free if proper preventive maintenance is performed. And switching to a newer antifreeze will go a long way. Dexcool is kinda crappy. Prestone would be my personal route in one of those era engines after doing intakes.
But I would honestly say that 60K is about the general time in between gasket changes. If you but 180K on a Malibu, I'm certain you had more reason to sell the car than intake leaks...
A-Ron...I read your post and think that either I read your text too fast or you had a typo in there. If it dies in gear, I'd look at the vacuum leaks like Ken said and if those 3.4DOHC fuggers have EGR, I'd pull that off and look for carbon build up. But those things are a PITA to work on.
Did you say what year it is? A good OBDII scan tool will go a long way for reading realtime parameters in diagnostic aid. If it's OBDI and you can't find a vacuum leak or an EGR issue...have your buddy sell you them hood vents, sell it for scrap and wash his hands of it.
Top 2 transmission bolts from the factory are an external Torx. If they're a 12mm, they've been replaced.
Personally, if I'm pulling an engine, I'll probably pull engine, trans & tcase as one as well as removing the front header panel as well.
takes a while for a check to clear.![]()
You're right. About the Z34, that is. I really did read your text too quickly. I was loading a bunch of tables into a box truck and didn't have a lot of time to read.Typo my ass, i think you were just pissed about your hat. And its a Z34, i thought those were pre-OBD2.
I have a kid.Checking in.
What have I missed?
Checking in.
What have I missed?
General Francissimo Franco is still dead.Checking in.
What have I missed?
OUR TOP STORY FOR TONIGHT!General Francissimo Franco is still dead.
Top passenger side bolt. I have the motor dropped down a couple inches thanks to taking off the motormounts. I can't see the bolt head from down below as there is too many wires in the way. I can't get to it from the top yet, just can't get my hand in there. So Jennie is going to help me this morning then I should have the stroker in by this evening and maybe even running.
I always take the head off when i pull a 4.0. Gear wrench makes those top tranny bolts easy. I believe they are a 12 MM. Plus then you can hook chains to your old head bolts.
I usually pull the entire drivetrain also, but with the bellypan from T.N.T on there it does not make it easy as the control arms bolt to that, so that would of been another problem to deal with. I just dropped the engine off the mounts to get a little more clearance on the top. I could see the driver side e-torx bolt and got that one off easy but the passenger side has a few wires and hoses running there so I cannot see if from underneath. So an extra set of hands on the top to guide the socket on and me underneath breaking the bolt loose.
Having the correct size socket for those e-torx makes things ALOT easier.
So I finally got with Solid Industries about the spindles I ordered. Turns out they don't carry them anymore. That's a nice 3 weeks waiting to hear that answer. So Yukon makes some. Most places are charging $160 a spindle, this place is charging $89 with the bearing kit:
http://completeoffroad.com/i-123130-chevy-spindle-72-76-1-2-dana-44-k10-yp-sp706528.html
Too good to be true? I called them, got an american with a stock status and I've read a few threads on other boards about good service, so I guess we'll see.