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I’m looking at these CO2 setups

Bronco said:
I assume they take the regulator off to fill it. I would need it on to have the system go into compressor backup mode without manually re-pluming it.
Click to expand...

The regulator comes off...mainly because when you trade out the empty bottle to get a filled one you don't get another regulator.
 
I've been looking into selling these things for a while.....

I have a surplus of 15# tanks at my shop that are used and the normally go for $65 filled and with a new valve. I have access to new tanks thru work as I work for a co2 distributer(free co2 for me!!!).


I've been selling brackets like these
15HB.jpg
for $30.


I'm still trying to work a deal with some regulator manufacturers.
 
Bronco,


YOu could plumb a small check valve into the hose work. However regulators are made to let gas out, not in. They already have a built in check valve persay.
 
I have a 10lb, love it, got if from formattfab. Get the adjustable regulator!

as far as the ARB, do a search, you need to regulate way down.

Sometimes when everybody on the trail wants my air, wish I had a 15, just fill your own first!

I pay $10 to have it filled.
 
John90XJ said:
The co2 in the tank is stored at a nominal pressure of 1800 psi in a liquid phase.
Click to expand...

Actually, it's less than that unless the temperature is very high. Here's a link to a graph that shows the psi in the tank versus the temperature and percent of fill: http://www.warpig.com/paintball/technical/gasses/co2pv.gif

At normal temperatures, and assuming your tank is not over-filled, the pressure in the tank should not be much more than 1000 psi.

The CO2 inside the tank is a liquid. When they fill the tank they fill it with liquid CO2. Only the headspace in the top of the tank (above the liquid) is gas. As you use the CO2 the liquid literally boils off, filling the headspace with more gas. This is why CO2 tanks are sized like 10 lbs., 15 lbs., etc. That is how many pounds of liquid CO2 they will hold.
 
dmillion said:
Actually, it's less than that unless the temperature is very high. Here's a link to a graph that shows the psi in the tank versus the temperature and percent of fill: http://www.warpig.com/paintball/technical/gasses/co2pv.gif

At normal temperatures, and assuming your tank is not over-filled, the pressure in the tank should not be much more than 1000 psi.

The CO2 inside the tank is a liquid. When they fill the tank they fill it with liquid CO2. Only the headspace in the top of the tank (above the liquid) is gas. As you use the CO2 the liquid literally boils off, filling the headspace with more gas. This is why CO2 tanks are sized like 10 lbs., 15 lbs., etc. That is how many pounds of liquid CO2 they will hold.
Click to expand...


my tank pressure guage reads about 800psi...
 
87CherokeeChief said:
my tank pressure guage reads about 800psi...
Click to expand...

It's my understanding that it changes phase from liquid to gas at about 900 psi and the guage won't reflect that the pressure is really dropping anymore until it's truly empty. Apparently they will register in that range for some time before just going empty. That's why they weigh the bottle before and after to determine how much is in it.

I use a fixed regulator and no guages. It's easier to just weigh it before and then see how light it gets. If it's before a big trip I swap out for a full bottle and don't worry about it.
 
John90XJ said:
It's my understanding that it changes phase from liquid to gas at about 900 psi...
Click to expand...

Depends on the temperature. See the link in the post above for the graph, but very roughly speaking it will change to gas at about 800 psi at 60°, 900 psi at 70°, 1000 psi at a little over 80°, and goes up from there to as much as 1800 psi at 120° (by the time it gets this high the blow-off valve on your regulator should probably have vented).

So, as long as there is liquid CO2 in the tank, the tank will maintain the pressure mentioned above. Once all of the liquid is used up and you only have compressed, gaseous CO2 in the tank then the pressure will drop quickly as you use the remaining gas.
 
not trying to hijack your thread, but how easy is it to use a CO2 tank to run an ARB air locker? Can it even be done...dont have much (read: any) experience with OBA, so just wondering. I like the speed of a tank better than a compressor, the kicker is if it can run an air locker
 
NCCherokee said:
Can it even be done...
Click to expand...
There is no reason it won’t run an ARB but an ARB will need to be regulated down to the 85 to 100 psi rang. I plan to run my tank regulator at 150 to get fast air ups and then run an adjustable regulator on a forked off system at 85 to 95.
 
NCCherokee said:
not trying to hijack your thread, but how easy is it to use a CO2 tank to run an ARB air locker? Can it even be done...dont have much (read: any) experience with OBA, so just wondering. I like the speed of a tank better than a compressor, the kicker is if it can run an air locker
Click to expand...

this is exactly what i'm doing. i bought the ARB manifold kit from powertank. it regulates the pressure down to 90psi i believe, and it has a safety pressure releif if it goes above 100psi. at 100psi the ARB seals go. I also will have an adjustable regulator on the tank so i can turn down the pressure there too. I'm also just using air switches, so that way i won't have to deal with any electrical failures.
 
this is my CO2 setup...

dcknt.jpg


:D :D :D :D
 
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