If I can fit a ZJ fuel tank, anyone can (lots of accesssories)

[bajabronco]

Ron, I did consider trying to pry the skid plate wider with a jack, but ,one other problem that I saw I would face is that the side flanges of the tank butt right up against my shackle relocation bracket. Even if I tried to pry it wider or if the skid was cut, opened up, and re-welded I believe I would have had to cut the flange down substantially as well to make it fit in the space available. One thing that I read in one of the previous writeups is that the skid shifted 3/4" to the pass side as well. I am not sure there would be enough leeway on the pass side with the exhaust between the tank and the shackle for it to work either, but that is just a guess. With those observations, I decided it would be easier at this time to just keep the existing XJ tank in. If I get more free time at a later date I might revisit it, and take some time to see what I might do.

 

[bajabronco]

ZJ tank will work with JCR skid, just needs opened up a bit... best 100 bucks for an extra 5 gallons.

I'll have to revisit it again. I was using my buddies flat driveway to do the swap, and wanted to get it in and out of there. I'll have to see if I can move my bumper supports under the skid plate or modify them to make everything fit.

 

[Goose_XJ88]

Since this thread has been bumped back to the top, has anyone tried this with any other aftermarket skids? I plan to do this swap and have an IRO skid plate I think.

I have not tried dropping the tank into the skid yet to see if it will fit. Both are sitting on the shelf waiting to be installed.

 

[bajabronco]

I put my ZJ gas tank in today. I have the JCR skid and tried to just use a high lift jack to bend it out like whitexj98. It wasn’t bending too well so we thought it would be better to put some relief cuts in it and weld it back up

Modding the gas tank skid

After getting the gas tank in I put in around 3 1/2 gallons of gas and the gauge was reading 1/4 tank like XJeeper did on his conversion.
I doubt that the gauge will get much lower than that.
I am wondering if others have had their gauge read high after the mod, and if so what have they done to fix it? Anyone got any ideas on what might be done other than dropping the tank again and bending the arm?

 

[RCP Phx]

The gauge doesn't see any different readings, it just won't come off of "full" for a couple days or longer.

 

[RCP Phx]

I can't tell you for sure that it's the factory setting, but from the day it rolled off the showroom floor to now, 5 gallons (on a totally empty tank) just makes the low fuel light go off and the gauge reads just above 1/8th.

 

[bajabronco]

I can't tell you for sure that it's the factory setting, but from the day it rolled off the showroom floor to now, 5 gallons (on a totally empty tank) just makes the low fuel light go off and the gauge reads just above 1/8th.

Ron, that’s how mine use to be till after the swap. I had a completely empty zj tank and I put in only around 3.5-4 gallons of gas from my fuel can. Now with only close to 3.5 gallons in the tank the gauge reads 1/4 tank. I don’t think the fuel warning light will even come on anymore. Did you experience this as well?

 

[RCP Phx]

Ron, that’s how mine use to be till after the swap. I had a completely empty zj tank and I put in only around 3.5-4 gallons of gas from my fuel can. Now with only close to 3.5 gallons in the tank the gauge reads 1/4 tank. I don’t think the fuel warning light will even come on anymore. Did you experience this as well?

No, it sounds like the arm does some adjusting, but that's a lot of work!

 

[RCP Phx]

If you should decide to go that route, I could dis-assemble my stock tank/sender and measure the float drop.

 

[bajabronco]

I went out this morning and found this - FML :doh:

Either my vent extension is too high, or my pump seal is crap or both. I followed RCPPhx's guide for the vent height, so I am not sure. I am not looking forward to dropping the tank AGAIN.

 

[jeepingben]

It could just be that the seal isn't in position. When you do drop the tank, maybe make an access hatch? There are some threads about it.

I had to change my fuel pump a few weeks ago and I was pretty happy to not have to lie in the snow to do it.

 

[RCP Phx]

When I did mine I used a new pump, sealing ring, and lock-nut, but it was still a PITA to do. The FSM also calls for 55ft/lbs on that plastic nut!

 

[bajabronco]

When I did mine I used a new pump, sealing ring, and lock-nut, but it was still a PITA to do. The FSM also calls for 55ft/lbs on that plastic nut!

My plan of action is to drop the tank again, double check the gasket and sealing ring, bend the float arm up slightly, as well as lower the vent tube a small amount. I am not looking forward to doing this a third time! First time was when I replaced the pump because of the stroker build, second time is last weekend for the tank swap, now to fix the leak. The process of dropping the tank is not horrible, it is just the fumes that get to me, and getting my skid plate back on. Getting the bolts in on the exhaust side with the exhaust, bumper braces and shackle relocation brackets is a pain in the ass.

 

[RCP Phx]

Nope, I hate doing things twice or more.