Hydrosteer ram mounting

[old_man]

I am getting ready to install a hydrosteer setup on my D44. I recently got a RuffStuff armored cover and was thinking of welding some tabs to it. It seems like the lateral force would keep the cover creeping back and forth and would be impossible to keep it leak free.

Anybody have any experience with this. I may just fab up a bracket and mount it down toward the track bar mount.

If not I will probably mill a small groove all around the mating surface to allow the sealer to work better. I use the "Right Stuff" sealer.

 

[beakie]

depending on the setup you have for a truss or UCA mount... you could tie the dif cover into the truss with plate going from the cover, to the truss and bolted to it. would help with the side to side forces and tie everything together that much more.
I think GLOR (great lakes I think it is) makes a dif cover like that. but it wouldn't be hard to put something together to that effect.

 

[old_man]

My D44 is not trussed. Too bad my server is down, I have a ton of pictures to show what I did. The D44 is a radius arm setup. I used the Ford track bar but mounted using the existing hole, but from the front instead of the back. I straightened the bar a bit and welded on a coupler nut for a TRE type connector that hooks to the Saginaw unit. I use the stock radius arms and modified them to use RE Super joints on the frame side. I expect to finish radius arm upgrade tomorrow.

I did the whole front HP D44 with disks for less than $1100. That included locker, gears, all suspension, hubs, new brakes, and 5x4.5 to 5x5.5 adapters for the rear D44 to even out the width. I forgot to mention that I also scored 4 rims to go with the new lug pattern.

 

[beakie]

nice, sounds good. lookin forward to pics.

here and I was happy I just got a front driveshaft and little tranny cooler for $60.

 

[AIbandit]

I've seen alot on bars that go around the dif cover.

like this

 

[vetteboy]

I've run my hydro assist like that for 2.5 years, no issues.

I also use the Right Stuff sealant.

 

[POLAR_JEEP_04]

lubelockers work well also

 

[Boostwerks.com]

If you ordered the cover with beveled countersunk hardware, I'd use the cover and wouldn't think twice about it.

BTW, I saw ya cruising down taft a while back. Rig looks great!

 

[Goatman]

Plenty of people have mounted the ram off the cover. Sure, it could increase the risk of cover leaks, but it's been done plenty. I don't think just the force from the steering will move the cover, it's usually smacking the cover hard on rocks that jolts it and causes leaks. I've never had leak free covers, no matter what I do to them, and I only use the Right Stuff. I guess I need to try Lubelockers.

If you had high steer, but it sounds like you don't, then the perfect place to mount the ram is on the inside of the track bar axle mount. Without high steer, you can be pretty much left with just the diff cover. Also, if you had high steer, you can use a double ended arm and mount the ram behind the axle, like I did on the buggy. All my stuff is built to stay out of the way of rocks, so behind the axle was perfect.

 

[old_man]

I went to mount my RoughStuff cover. I noticed that the holes in the cover are 3/8 while the cover screws are 5/16. Did you guys drill and tap the housing up to 3/8? Rather than go to that hassle, I may simply countersink the cover.

 

[mattyj]

Here is how i had my setup mounted on my turdy. It was a snug fit inbetween the drag link and track bar but it worked well. Simply mounted it off my trackbar mount/truss.

 

[Goatman]

I went to mount my RoughStuff cover. I noticed that the holes in the cover are 3/8 while the cover screws are 5/16. Did you guys drill and tap the housing up to 3/8? Rather than go to that hassle, I may simply countersink the cover.

The holes in my Tera60 cover are larger than the bolts, the difference just fills up with silicone (I only use Right Stuff), but my bolts are 3/8".


My front cover is off, so I just checked the holes and they're 7/16". I think we need a little room to get all the bolts in without a big hassle.

 

[Starboard M]

Here is how i had my setup mounted on my turdy. It was a snug fit inbetween the drag link and track bar but it worked well. Simply mounted it off my trackbar mount/truss.

This is off topic, but do you happen to have any pictures showing how your center limit straps are mounted at the frame? Did you just sleeve the frame, and bolt them on?

Also, how much center droop did you have? I remember trying to keep up with you ion the lakebed and didnt stand a chance, so obviously it didnt effect your high speed runs too much.

 

[squirrel80]

I am totally stealing your setup idea on my JK 44. I have the same TNT truss and that looks like it will work perfect. Oh and I am mounting my limits straps that way too.

 

[old_man]

I just countersunk the holes and installed it. If I have problems, when I get back from Moab I will drill and retap the D44 housing. I also use the RightStuff sealant. It will have had three days to harden before I put any oil in or apply any pressure.

 

[mattyj]

This is off topic, but do you happen to have any pictures showing how your center limit straps are mounted at the frame? Did you just sleeve the frame, and bolt them on?

Also, how much center droop did you have? I remember trying to keep up with you ion the lakebed and didnt stand a chance, so obviously it didnt effect your high speed runs too much.

I dont have any pics sorry, but basically i welded a piece of "L" angle to the frame on each side and a simple tab off that.

I played around with the length of the center strap quite abit. I found for wheeling, it was best nearly as tight as possible, maybe 1" slack. It really helped on climbs and it was noticebly better than the 3-4" inches i intially started with.
When going fast it was better without it on but i got lazy after a while and just left it on permanently...it wasnt so bad.

I am totally stealing your setup idea on my JK 44. I have the same TNT truss and that looks like it will work perfect. Oh and I am mounting my limits straps that way too.

Yeah, it all worked well for me.

 

[Goatman]

This is off topic, but do you happen to have any pictures showing how your center limit straps are mounted at the frame? Did you just sleeve the frame, and bolt them on?

Also, how much center droop did you have? I remember trying to keep up with you ion the lakebed and didnt stand a chance, so obviously it didnt effect your high speed runs too much.

I originally set my center limit strap length (two straps) at the point of axle droop when fully flexed (both ways). The center of the axle really droops very little when it's fully flexed out. This allows full flex but limits unloading on climbs. I would then give the straps a twist if I did a steep waterfall. Later, I got longer straps and set them at full droop for going fast, and ran them with one twist for trail work, and added one more twist for steep waterfalls.

My frame tabs for the straps were off the shelf tabs welded to a square plate, and then that plate was welded to the bottom side of the frame. My axle mount was just two tabs on the tube, and I used a pin through the tabs.

I know you didn't ask me, but thought I'd answer since I had a similar setup.

 

[old_man]

So you put a tab on both sides, then ran a strap from each side to a point in the middle of the axle?

I was thinking of doing a single strap and running it though some type of eyelet on the axle. Any reason you picked two straps?

My radius arms tend to unload on verticals and I need to limit it. How did the fixed length straps make it handle on the trail when you went over bumps? Did you get a jolt when the body rebounded upwards?

 

[Goatman]

So you put a tab on both sides, then ran a strap from each side to a point in the middle of the axle?

I was thinking of doing a single strap and running it though some type of eyelet on the axle. Any reason you picked two straps?

My radius arms tend to unload on verticals and I need to limit it. How did the fixed length straps make it handle on the trail when you went over bumps? Did you get a jolt when the body rebounded upwards?

You never notice the straps on the trail, even if you forget and leave them short. You need two straps if you go from both frame rails, since you need to connect with the steel eyelets at each end. Anywhere that the straps can chafe they will wear through. You even need to make sure that when you tighten down the end tabs they are in line so the straps pull straight on the ends, or they will wear through.

 

[old_man]

I was planning on doing a sort of roller on the axle, but your idea sounds good. I expected to feel a heavy shock load on the trail. I have seen people use an ATV winch, only to have it destroyed due to the shock loading. I guess the straps have enough give.

Where did you get your straps, or did you fab them yourself?

What type of end attachments did you use on your straps?