HP44 build for the Xota

[87xjco]

I'm glad if it will help you, when you go to do yours, one thing, be careful of using my specs. My LCA brackets are further inboard then a stock XJ. And the bracket width is setup for heim joints and 7/16" spacers.

I would like to hear from more people who install a full width HP44, and if they have any problem with the yoke being to close to the center of the vehicle.

I know if someone where using the TNT truss system, they wouldn't want to shorten the left tube as much as I did, that left TNT Y link would end up hitting the yoke I believe. But Tnt can help you with figuring out that if you go with their truss.

 

[87manche]

brianho13 has a full width HP44 in the front, uses the stock link locations as well.
might want to do a search and see if he has any pictures up.

 

[87xjco]

FYI

I found that one way to make the XJ front driveshaft bolt up to the HP44 yoke is by using a conversion u-joint.

The Ford yoke on my axle requires a 3 5/8" dimension u-joint as measured from the outside to outside of each cup. The XJ front U-joint is 3 1/4". Both use 1 1/16" caps.

The correct conversion joint, is for a 1310 to 1330 joint application.

Spicer part # - 5-134x

I'm sure it's also possible to change the yoke so that a conversion joint is not needed.

 

[ZacSquatch]

I have 2 of the said Conversion U-joints already for use with my 9"/44.. I have a few buddy's runnin late 70's trucks and bronco's using them.

 

[RedHeep]

FYI

I found that one way to make the XJ front driveshaft bolt up to the HP44 yoke is by using a conversion u-joint.

The Ford yoke on my axle requires a 3 5/8" dimension u-joint as measured from the outside to outside of each cup. The XJ front U-joint is 3 1/4". Both use 1 1/16" caps.

The correct conversion joint, is for a 1310 to 1330 joint application.

Spicer part # - 5-134x

I'm sure it's also possible to change the yoke so that a conversion joint is not needed.

You can get those at the local auto parts stores in whatever their brand name is too. I have one on the rear for the 8.8 and a couple spares in the box.

 

[JeepFreak21]

Did you worry about melting the seals when burning in the second half of the truss and driver's side brackets?
Very informative write-up btw!
Thanks,
Billy

 

[87xjco]

Did you worry about melting the seals when burning in the second half of the truss and driver's side brackets?
Very informative write-up btw!
Thanks,
Billy

That's a valid concern

I never welded a large area all at one time, once the seals were installed, and I always let the welds cool before making more.

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

I would like to hear from more people who install a full width HP44, and if they have any problem with the yoke being to close to the center of the vehicle.

I had to use a 1310 to 1330 conversion joint for the HP44

No problems on yoke too close to center, actually moved the front shaft away from the exhuast downpipe.. but that, and the fact that the pinion is longer than a d30 made me need a 2" shorter driveshaft.

I didn't need conversion joints at the yokes of my 44 or 9" (76" f-150) they were 1310 (but I did to use a Bronco rear dshaft)

 

[xj92]

And if you have to shorten the front shaft anyways, just have the proper yoke welded on the end to match the one from the HP44 (1330?). I believe it's stronger but don't know how it compares to the 1310 as far as how much angle you can have with it.

 

[87xjco]

I got the conversion joint in yesterday and installed it no problem. I also ordered a spare. $26 each, spicer # 5-134x.

The rear 9" used the same size joint as the old D44 and the old D35 used.

I think everyone has posted the other options.

Change front drive shaft yoke for the larger 1330 joint, especially if you are already getting your driveshaft shortened and balanced. Driveshaft assy probably should at least be checked for balance if you swap the front yoke.

Or change the yoke in the differential to a u-bolt style with 1310 joint.

 

[87xjco]

I had a few issues with axle shafts.

No problem on the left side inner, the inner is a stock length Wagoneer axle. The outer I found out needs to be a Chevy outer.

I had ordered Ford outers before I was warned that I should get Chevy's

I did a test fit with the Ford outer stub.

And it isn't long enough to be able to install the clip on the end of the axle.

Here's a Waggy outer and it's longer, but still not enough to get the clip on.

It's not crucial to have the clip in place. But I have to send the right side inner stub back, so I went ahead and sent those back and got Chevy outers. So here's the left side with spicer u-joint, full circle clips and Chevy outers

The right side inner was another problem, I had ordered one for a 78 F150, which is one of the housings I have, I used the rotors from it on my housing, which is a F250 housing that had 8 lug outers on it.

Turns out the F250 shaft, needs to be 3/4" longer than the F150 shaft. And I was told by PORC that no one makes a shaft off the shelf that fits the F250. Well I wasn't able to fond a way to contact Yukon directly to ask them about it. But I was able to talk to Alloy USA. They knew exactly what I was talking about right away. And he gave me the Alloy USA part # - 10143.

So I sent back the Yukon inner and had them send me an Alloy USA one, and that matches the old one and I still have a couple of trail spares that I'll put new u-joints in and use Waggy outers on both.