how to: install a factory TC skid

[Jeff in VA]

(as also posted on Comancheclub.com)

Finally got around to adding the TC skidplate under the MJ yesterday. Here's a basic rundown of how to do it for anyone that's interested. The whole install took about an hour working by myself, and about three beers

New crossmember and skidplate ($12 from the pick-n-pull, cleaned up and painted):

(upside down):

(as installed):

Support the driveline and remove old crossmember. Pay attention to how it was oriented so you can install the new one the same way:

Old vs. new, they are identical:

Except the new one has well nuts already installed in it to attach the front end of the skidplate:

Install the new crossmember the same as the old (they are NOT symmetrical), tighten it up, and remove the jack:

 

[Jeff in VA]

how to: install a factory TC skid (part 2)

Once it’s in place, move onto the skidplate. The hole for the frame end of the skid is already in the framerail…it’s ½” (pay no attention to the snapped off crossmember stud....I've got one broken one on each side I need to drill out and retap, maybe today ):

Install a nutsert (1/2” OD) into the hole, using the tool:

This is how the nutsert goes on the tool:

I had to slightly enlarge the hole in the frame to insert the nutsert. Don’t make it too big….just large enough to be able to pound the nutsert into it:

Thread the tip of the tool into the nutsert and squeeze the tool to compress it, just like using a rivet gun. This sounds easier than it really is….I couldn’t get the oooompff needed, so I used some mechanical advantage :shhh: :

Once the nutsert collapses, remove the tool. Now you can thread a bolt into it:

 

[Jeff in VA]

how to: install a factory TC skid (part 3)

Add copious amounts of anti-seize to the skidplate bolts, and hang the skid. Congratulations, you now have a factory trasfercase skidplate under your rig :cheers: :

 

[Brett M]

Nice..I might have to make another run to pick n pull this week (Already been there twice last week.) Question, second to last pic, what's the bolt on the inside of the frame rail attaching to? I don't recall that on my crossmember, but I could be wrong.

 

[Jeff in VA]

MJ's crossmembers have an extra mount inboard of the framerail, for a total of 4 mounting points per side. Why are they different than XJ's??? I have no idea....

Jeff

 

[Jeff in VA]

Fastenal has nutserts, alot cheaper than the dealership, JIC anyone needs a source for them (and don't live next to my neighbor )

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0125686

Jeff

 

[Spudboy]

Any suggestions for those of us who don't want to spend $100 for the tool? Is there another way to set the nuts?

 

[Jeff in VA]

Yeah, in fact I only used the tool to just get the nutsert "seated" (I was worried about breaking the tool, and it wasn't mine to break). The whole key is to keep the nutsert from spinning while it collapses, which is what the tool does by drawing it back like a rivet gun as opposed to tightening down with a bolt spinning in the threads. The OD of the 'cert is serrated, to grab onto the metal capturing it in the hole and keep it from spinning. I used a 1/2 OD one, and had to drill out the hole in the framerail just a tiny bit, and pound it in with a hammer....don't make the hole too big. I suppose you could use some red threadlocker on the outside of the 'cert as well, insert it, and let it harden a bit to furthur help, but I didn't. Then you can thread a bolt into it, with a lockwasher on top followed by a couple flat fender washers (with some lube inbetween them) behind it. Use a deep well socket over the bolt head to tighten it while pressing upward, and the pressure will engage the lockwasher on the end of the 'cert and hold it while you tighten the bolt. It will eventually draw the barrel end of the 'cert down and collapse it enough to firmly hold it in place. Then you can remove the washers, add the skid, and torque it down even furthur.

I shoulda took a pic of that step, now that I think about it......sorry!

HTH,

Jeff