How tight Rear Shackle Bolts?

[tgregg]

How tight should the rear shackle bolts be? Seems to me if I go too tight it will pinch the travel.

 

[jeeperjohn]

The steel bushing inside should prevent the rubber bushings from binding on the shackle so tighten them suckas down!

 

[MoparManiac]

Not sure if I'm right here but this is how I do them.

Install bolts loose while jeep is on jackstands.
Lower jeep to ground so full weight is on it.
Tighten bolts SNUG. They should be tight, but you should still be able to turn the bolt inside the sleeve with a wrench. There should be some kind of locknute on the other side of the bolt.

 

[hubs97xj]

I found 80 ftlbs for the lower bolt/rear spring eye, and 115 for the upper.

 

[tgregg]

Thanks torque settings are helpful!

 

[builder]

Hand wrench tight is plenty and allows the shackles to move..

 

[greenmachine74]

Tighten them with the jeep on the ground under full weight.

 

[jeepfreak1020]

Not sure if I'm right here but this is how I do them.

Install bolts loose while jeep is on jackstands.
Lower jeep to ground so full weight is on it.
Tighten bolts SNUG. They should be tight, but you should still be able to turn the bolt inside the sleeve with a wrench. There should be some kind of locknute on the other side of the bolt.

X2. Samething i did and mine are great.

 

[WB9YZU]

The proper methode is to assemble it on stands (or lift) and assemble it snug. Then lower the vehicle on it's tires (or axle stands) and torque the bolts to the proper torque.

Why not leave them "snug"? Because then you are using a piece of sheet metal as a very thin bearing. When you torque the bolt to the proper torque, the whole assembly becomes stronger and the weight is distributed over the assembly and not just where the bolt contacts the sheetmetal.

-Ron

 

[souske]

The proper methode is to assemble it on stands (or lift) and assemble it snug. Then lower the vehicle on it's tires (or axle stands) and torque the bolts to the proper torque.

Why not leave them "snug"? Because then you are using a piece of sheet metal as a very thin bearing. When you torque the bolt to the proper torque, the whole assembly becomes stronger and the weight is distributed over the assembly and not just where the bolt contacts the sheetmetal.

-Ron

]
WoW! a post by zuki-ron where he is not a dick! :clap::huh::clap:Hasta:smootch:

 

[5-90]

The proper methode is to assemble it on stands (or lift) and assemble it snug. Then lower the vehicle on it's tires (or axle stands) and torque the bolts to the proper torque.

Why not leave them "snug"? Because then you are using a piece of sheet metal as a very thin bearing. When you torque the bolt to the proper torque, the whole assembly becomes stronger and the weight is distributed over the assembly and not just where the bolt contacts the sheetmetal.

-Ron

Also, if you torque the screws with the vehicle in the air at full droop, you'll have set the bushings in that position, and they'll be stressed constantly (even with the suspension at rest) and wear out faster. Snug them up (not very snug - 1/4- to 1/2-turn past contact,) set everything back on the ground, then and only then torque it.

I find it helpful in between putting it back on the ground and torquing the screws to give each corner a couple of good, strong, sharp bounces - then let the vehicle settle again. It gets a more "natural" position that way than merely lowering it would.

And, Ron is entirely correct about frame member loading - no arguments here.