how do i clearance a 1310 cv joint?

[markg]

to get more angle out of it.ive done it to toyota cvs before.there are writeups on it.the 1310 is different then the yota stuff though.its acyually assembled backwards from how the yota one is.

 

[Frank Z]

On a 4x4? I'd never even consider it.

 

[markg]

this is the procedure for doing a yota cv.you get much more angle out of it for a front shaft.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/

 

[RCP Phx]

I had to clearance mine since Ive got a LP D30.

 

[markg]

I had to clearance mine since Ive got a LP D30.

is there a writeup somewhere?on the yota you have to loose the dust seal and grind that area flat.i dont wanna grind too much if i dont have to.

 

[vetteboy]

I went to a single u-joint on the front output to solve those problems...

 

[RCP Phx]

is there a writeup somewhere?on the yota you have to loose the dust seal and grind that area flat.i dont wanna grind too much if i dont have to.

Not that I know of,I just hit it with a die grinder(were only talking maybe a 1/16").

 

[MoparManiac]

I went to a single u-joint on the front output to solve those problems...

I've thought about this before but never asked.

Would a single-cardan driveshaft (single u-joints at either end) help offset the battle between caster/pinion angle with the D30? You wouldn't need the pinion pointed at the t-case then.

 

[emr1101]

I had to clearance mine since Ive got a LP D30.

Was it a stock front driveshaft you clearanced?

 

[RCP Phx]

Was it a stock front driveshaft you clearanced?

Yeap,same shaft used in the earlier years!

 

[emr1101]

wow i tihnk id like to try this. my front is squeeking and vibrating from the cv

 

[RCP Phx]

this is the procedure for doing a yota cv.you get much more angle out of it for a front shaft.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/

I didnt do anything around the "centering" ball,just the yoke bodies themselves.They were binding when fully dropped out on the drivers side.

 

[vetteboy]

I've thought about this before but never asked.

Would a single-cardan driveshaft (single u-joints at either end) help offset the battle between caster/pinion angle with the D30? You wouldn't need the pinion pointed at the t-case then.

BRIANHO13 asked me something similiar via PM, so I'll copy the response here:

Well, stock vs. stock, you don't get any more angle with a double cardan. A stock 1310 single joint is rated to 30 degrees of misalignment - which is more than a 1330 or 1350, for that matter. I've read conflicting sheets that put a Spicer 1310 double-cardan somewhere between 22 and 30 degrees, however at the limit you're really exceeding the "CV" function of it anyway. They only exist to provide smoother operation between around 10 to 20 degrees of driveline angle.

With a little grinding - very little, actually - I'd guess I'm slightly above that 30-degree mark at full droop. I've got decent driveline length but between the low-pinion 60 and clocked-up D300 it's not surprising that a little bit of angle happens. I ran a freshly-rebuilt 1310 double-cardan for the first three months and it was toast after that point...further inspection revealed that the cap for the centering ball was tweaked/crushed in a few places which were signs of it maxing out. I put the stock D300 yoke back on, re-made the driveshaft to use a single 1310, and it's been fine for a year and a half now.

(except for one small issue - you NEED a u-bolt yoke on the t-case. On the strap yokes the bolt heads actually end up limiting the angle more than anything else, and I had an issue with the bolts getting messed up. Changing to a u-bolt yoke solved all of that.)

The other benefit is that the angles at ride height actually work a lot better in my case, given the stock pinion/caster relation on the Dodge 60. For a given caster amount the pinion angle on a Dodge 60 runs about 5 degrees lower than a Chevy 60...which again with the clocked t-case puts my u-joint angles nearly equal.

***

With unbalanced home-made driveshafts, unbalanced beadlocked 38.5" tires, poly motor mounts, poly trans mount, and solid flex joints at all points in the suspension...there's nothing I can exclusively identify as a front driveshaft vibration...but there's nothing that makes me think one exists, either. All things considered there were times with all stock running gear that I had worse vibrations at speed than I've got now.

 

[markg]

thanks.
im pretty sure to properly do it you have to ditch the seal and grind that area smooth.i am extending a shaft now and while its apart i would like to properly clearance it.i know tom woods charges extra to clearance a 1310 cv because ive had it done on newly purchaced shafts before.i run a d60 in the front of my rig and we rotated the knuckles and the pinion is pointing directly at the case.this is a daily driver and im thinking single joints might be too much vibration with the amount of lift i have.

 

[markg]

hmmm i just found this and all they did is like you said.....grind the yokes a bit.
now im gonna have to look into this a little deeper.

http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/jb_ultimate300/page2.asp

 

[emr1101]

Wow this is getting complicated, im going to have to try my hand at this driveshaft modding stuff cuz mine is making me VERY unhappy