How can I hook up an efan timer on a 2001?

[muddeprived]

Will this work on a 90?

is anyone in the bay area and wants to help me do this? I dont know anything about electrical and would love to do this upgrade. please let me know and i will order all the parts and come by your house.

yes it will work. I was in your shoes when I first started on this project but these guys worked with me step by step and made it so much easier to understand. Read over the entire thread and take in as much as you can and post up any questions here and we will help you. I will provide pictures of anything you need. It's not as hard as it looks, but it is somewhat difficult to understand at first but once you know what wires you need then it all comes together.

It's the least I can do. I owe it to these guys for helping me do this once-overwhelming project.


Chris

 

[lazyxj]

PLAN B - Switch Activated Fan Delay Timer

Your circuit above is very similar to the way my XJ's timer is wired except it is missing a constant-on fan switch .
Power for the constant-on fan switch comes from a 12 VDC source that's energized when the ignition is on. The switch's output goes to terminal 86 on the new relay. A diode is located in the wire going from the new switch to the relay to prevent back feeding.
I also added 3-amp inline fuse in the constant 12+ wire that feeds the timer and activation button. This small fuse will blow if back feeding occurs.

 

[muddeprived]

Your circuit above is very similar to the way my XJ's timer is wired except it is missing a constant-on fan switch .
Power for the constant-on fan switch comes from a 12 VDC source that's energized when the ignition is on. The switch's output goes to terminal 86 on the new relay. A diode is located in the wire going from the new switch to the relay to prevent back feeding.
I also added 3-amp inline fuse in the constant 12+ wire that feeds the timer and activation button. This small fuse will blow if back feeding occurs.

Could I disconnect the wire going into the n/o port of the timer and run it to a 12v ignition activated fuse with a switch wired in line? will my original setup still work and gain the ability to run the fan constantly via another switch?

 

[lazyxj]

[FONT=&quot]

Could I disconnect the wire going into the n/o port of the timer and run it to a 12v ignition activated fuse with a switch wired in line? will my original setup still work and gain the ability to run the fan constantly via another switch?

That's the same way mine is wired except you are connecting at the timer instead of splicing into the wire going to terminal 86, on the new fan relay.
Make sure to include a diode, in series with the new switch and fuse, to keep from blowing the inline fuse if you leave the fan switch in the 'on' position when turning the ignition off.
A small diode with a rating of 5-amps should be adequate[/FONT]

 

[muddeprived]

[FONT=&quot]

That's the same way mine is wired except you are connecting at the timer instead of splicing into the wire going to terminal 86, on the new fan relay.
Make sure to include a diode, in series with the new switch and fuse, to keep from blowing the inline fuse if you leave the fan switch in the 'on' position when turning the ignition off.
A small diode with a rating of 5-amps should be adequate[/FONT]

Ok let me see if I got this right:

86 relay------diode------switch------ignition switched fuse or wire

Is that good?

 

[lazyxj]

Ok let me see if I got this right:

86 relay------diode------switch------ignition switched fuse or wire

Is that good?

That should do it.

 

[muddeprived]

Alright here's an update. i drove to Erie and back today (5 hr trip) and made some pit stops at the rest area along the way. The jeep did not misfire at any of the stops. :shocked:

I also noticed the fan light kicking on every now and then, mostly when I stop at a light or stop sign. It seems like the fan is still being controlled by the pcm or whatever while I'm driving, which is good I guess. i thought I had full manual control but seems like the jeep takes care of it while I'm driving and I handle it while it's off. Cool.

The delay timer seems to have a bit of a problem with the timer wheel. I adjust it (jumper set to minutes) 1/4 turn and it still only stays on for 50 seconds. I adjust it a little more and it stays on for almost 5 minutes. There doesn't seem to be anything between 50 second and 5 minutes so I have to leave it on for 5 minutes after shutdown, which I think is too long. I dunno. I'm gonna email ELK about that cuz it might be a bad timer or something.

 

[garr]

I have to leave it on for 5 minutes after shutdown, which I think is too long.

It seems like most fans in Jap cars run for that long after shutdown, 5 minutes should be OK.

 

[fyrfytr1717]

Alright here's an update. i drove to Erie and back today (5 hr trip) and made some pit stops at the rest area along the way. The jeep did not misfire at any of the stops. :shocked:

Now it's party time, right? arty:

I also noticed the fan light kicking on every now and then, mostly when I stop at a light or stop sign. It seems like the fan is still being controlled by the pcm or whatever while I'm driving, which is good I guess. i thought I had full manual control but seems like the jeep takes care of it while I'm driving and I handle it while it's off. Cool.

That seems pretty typical on my Jeep too. I guess when you come to a stop your airflow through the radiator goes away, engine temp goes up, and the fan kicks on. See, you were using your fan regularly, you just didn't realize it!

With the way your wiring is set up, you can only make it turn on manually, not off. The PCM is still free to turn it on at will. This is a good thing. This way you don't have to hit the button every time you come to a stop to prevent overheating.

The delay timer seems to have a bit of a problem with the timer wheel. I adjust it (jumper set to minutes) 1/4 turn and it still only stays on for 50 seconds. I adjust it a little more and it stays on for almost 5 minutes. There doesn't seem to be anything between 50 second and 5 minutes so I have to leave it on for 5 minutes after shutdown, which I think is too long. I dunno. I'm gonna email ELK about that cuz it might be a bad timer or something.

That's no good. Sounds like a faulty adjustment wheel to me. I'd be a little worried about eventually draining the battery by running the fan for 5 minutes every time.

 

[muddeprived]

Now it's party time, right? arty:



That seems pretty typical on my Jeep too. I guess when you come to a stop your airflow through the radiator goes away, engine temp goes up, and the fan kicks on. See, you were using your fan regularly, you just didn't realize it!

With the way your wiring is set up, you can only make it turn on manually, not off. The PCM is still free to turn it on at will. This is a good thing. This way you don't have to hit the button every time you come to a stop to prevent overheating.



That's no good. Sounds like a faulty adjustment wheel to me. I'd be a little worried about eventually draining the battery by running the fan for 5 minutes every time.

yeah that's what Im thinking. My battery is pretty old so i'm a bit worried about the 5 min timer. If I had an optima then i wouldn't worry......

I'll see what elk says about it.

 

[kastein]

The delay timer seems to have a bit of a problem with the timer wheel. I adjust it (jumper set to minutes) 1/4 turn and it still only stays on for 50 seconds. I adjust it a little more and it stays on for almost 5 minutes. There doesn't seem to be anything between 50 second and 5 minutes so I have to leave it on for 5 minutes after shutdown, which I think is too long. I dunno. I'm gonna email ELK about that cuz it might be a bad timer or something.

I would bet that the timer is based on a standard LM555 or LM556 timer chip (looks like a 556 from the picture) so the time delay equation is going to be linear based off the resistance of that variable resistor. It appears to be a 1Mohm variable from the picture on their website. Depending on whether they used a linear or logarithmic (audio) variable resistor, it could be difficult to adjust precisely at one end of the scale or the other. A logarithmic variable resistor will result in finer control toward the low end of the time scale while a linear will result in finer control toward the high end. As usual, engineering is just picking the best solution you can get from the various tradeoffs you can make... since they have a seconds setting and a minutes setting my bet is on them using a linear variable and "making up for it" by including a seconds setting so you can increase the granularity at the extreme low end. Problem is, the time you want is between the extreme low end and where the high end granularity gets good... the real solution to this is to replace the variable resistor with one that has a lower total resistance but that will require desoldering the old one and soldering in a new one (which will reduce the maximum time the timer will support) OR replacing it with a 1Mohm logarithmic variable resistor. Should be easy if you are decent with a soldering iron or can practice a bit first.

 

[muddeprived]

I would bet that the timer is based on a standard LM555 or LM556 timer chip (looks like a 556 from the picture) so the time delay equation is going to be linear based off the resistance of that variable resistor. It appears to be a 1Mohm variable from the picture on their website. Depending on whether they used a linear or logarithmic (audio) variable resistor, it could be difficult to adjust precisely at one end of the scale or the other. A logarithmic variable resistor will result in finer control toward the low end of the time scale while a linear will result in finer control toward the high end. As usual, engineering is just picking the best solution you can get from the various tradeoffs you can make... since they have a seconds setting and a minutes setting my bet is on them using a linear variable and "making up for it" by including a seconds setting so you can increase the granularity at the extreme low end. Problem is, the time you want is between the extreme low end and where the high end granularity gets good... the real solution to this is to replace the variable resistor with one that has a lower total resistance but that will require desoldering the old one and soldering in a new one (which will reduce the maximum time the timer will support) OR replacing it with a 1Mohm logarithmic variable resistor. Should be easy if you are decent with a soldering iron or can practice a bit first.

Thanks for that info. I emailed ELK about the timer and they are gonna send me another one to try. That was nice of them. If it has the same problem then you're info/advice will come in handy in fixing it.

 

[garr]

I hooked mine up today using a momentary switch to start the timer, Set it for 3 minutes & it works great, to test it I ran it hard on the beach then turned it off & Hit the fan, I restarted it after 5-7 minutes & it ran perfect, HEAT SOAK issues are gone

Your circuit above is very similar to the way my XJ's timer is wired except it is missing a constant-on fan switch .
Power for the constant-on fan switch comes from a 12 VDC source that's energized when the ignition is on. The switch's output goes to terminal 86 on the new relay. A diode is located in the wire going from the new switch to the relay to prevent back feeding.
I also added 3-amp inline fuse in the constant 12+ wire that feeds the timer and activation button. This small fuse will blow if back feeding occurs.

 

[muddeprived]

I hooked mine up today using a momentary switch to start the timer, Set it for 3 minutes & it works great, to test it I ran it hard on the beach then turned it off & Hit the fan, I restarted it after 5-7 minutes & it ran perfect, HEAT SOAK issues are gone

I guess this is turning out to be a REAL fix for the misfire issue. We need others to try it as well to be certain. But it's looking good so far...


So your timer could do 3 minutes? Mmm that probably shows that mine is not functioning correctly. I'll wait till ELK sends me the new one and see how it works.

 

[garr]

I guess this is turning out to be a REAL fix for the misfire issue. We need others to try it as well to be certain. But it's looking good so far...

Seems like the real fix, All the Jap cars I have owned ran the fan for a few minutes after shutdown when hot.

So your timer could do 3 minutes? Mmm that probably shows that mine is not functioning correctly. I'll wait till ELK sends me the new one and see how it works.

I had to play with it for a couple of hours to get it to about 3 minutes, Trial & Error!

 

[2000-xj]

Muddeprived where in PA are you located?
I just purchased a 2000 and I'm having the same issue, so I have been following this thread closely. Its still under warranty by the independant dealer. But my local mechanic has tried 2 different attempts at insulating the injector, both failed. Now he installed the factory supplied insulator, which looks somewhat like its made of a paper like material. I'm now testing this insulator. I'll be susprised if it works.

I'm located near Hbg and bought the jeep in York. It appears to be in very good condition but was way over priced. The dealer dropped over 2grand on the price so I bought it. However from this forum I learned I still paid to much and I should have bought a 99 or older.:doh: Well thats the story of my life, I always find out after the fact. However, I did spend a month looking and pricing and felt that I paid a fair, (not great) price.
I can't stand to drive a car with the CEL on so I need to find the fix, and it looks like your on the right track, with very helpful advice from the good people on this forum. I will stay tuned.

 

[muddeprived]

Muddeprived where in PA are you located?
I just purchased a 2000 and I'm having the same issue, so I have been following this thread closely. Its still under warranty by the independant dealer. But my local mechanic has tried 2 different attempts at insulating the injector, both failed. Now he installed the factory supplied insulator, which looks somewhat like its made of a paper like material. I'm now testing this insulator. I'll be susprised if it works.

I'm located near Hbg and bought the jeep in York. It appears to be in very good condition but was way over priced. The dealer dropped over 2grand on the price so I bought it. However from this forum I learned I still paid to much and I should have bought a 99 or older.:doh: Well thats the story of my life, I always find out after the fact. However, I did spend a month looking and pricing and felt that I paid a fair, (not great) price.
I can't stand to drive a car with the CEL on so I need to find the fix, and it looks like your on the right track, with very helpful advice from the good people on this forum. I will stay tuned.

I'm on the western border of PA, in Beaver County. It's about 40 minutes north of the 'burg.

I doubt that fix is gonna help with the misfire issue so don't get your hopes up high. I have twice the insulation that the dealer installs and never helped. it didn't even reduce it a little.

I paid 10k for my 01 jeep two years ago. Talk about overpaying........:smsoap:

LOL. Hey if you need help with this I can assist ya but the distance between us is a little bit of a problem.

 

[kastein]

Would not be surprised if this does fix it for good.

BTW - the issue isn't really a defect, more of a design flaw or a tradeoff like I said before. The problem is that you have to turn the knob VERY slightly at that end of the timescale to get the desired amount of adjustment. It can be difficult to actually get it to move without moving it too far. Where did you buy yours and how much did it cost? I'd like to get some measurements and see if I can find a permanent solution to the problem, all I need is the resistance of the variable resistor when it's adjusted to the value you want but it can be difficult to accurately measure it with it still connected to the PCB.

 

[muddeprived]

Would not be surprised if this does fix it for good.

BTW - the issue isn't really a defect, more of a design flaw or a tradeoff like I said before. The problem is that you have to turn the knob VERY slightly at that end of the timescale to get the desired amount of adjustment. It can be difficult to actually get it to move without moving it too far. Where did you buy yours and how much did it cost? I'd like to get some measurements and see if I can find a permanent solution to the problem, all I need is the resistance of the variable resistor when it's adjusted to the value you want but it can be difficult to accurately measure it with it still connected to the PCB.

http://www.at-fairfax.com/P1786-ELK-960.htm


I tried adjusting it JUST A HAIR and it still jumps 3 minutes or so. I fiddled with it for over an hour yesterday and gave up on it.

 

[lazyxj]

I tried adjusting it JUST A HAIR and it still jumps 3 minutes or so. I fiddled with it for over an hour yesterday and gave up on it.

I had the same problem with mine trying to get three minutes or so.
Set the jumper from minutes to seconds when adjusting the timer so you do not have to wait a few minutes every time you try to adjust the run time.

The timer does cure the hot soak problem. We just got back from a week in Death Valley and the timer stops the problem from occurring when I remember to use it.
Pushing the button becomes more automatic as the weather gets hotter.