high steer configuration options

X

xbaadleej

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Grafton mass
So i finally got my high steer arms installed and im mocking up my steering. I have the ruff stuff kit that uses the 2233l to connect tierod and draglink. After setting it up i noticed that due to the front axle stretch the drag link would have to pass over the tie rod from back to front to utilize the 2233l the conventional way. My real question is what is my best option. I could use the 2233l on the drag link in either the front or the back hole in the arm with the tie rod attached to that or i could just use the 2233l on the rear hole alone with the tie rod on the front hole. (The driver and passenger side both have the front hole and the passenger only have the rear hole. My only concern with the second option is using the 2233l with out something else bolted through it(will it be any weaker this way i would imagine not). Or should i just get a new end for the passenger drag link end i would rather use what i have if it will work fine. Here are some pics for reference.

2013-03-05_15-58-50_92_zps096ea81b.jpg


2013-03-03_12-47-26_621_zps4037853f.jpg


2013-03-03_12-48-10_881_zps39209b7d.jpg


Thanks for your input in advanced

IMG_20130305_203155_zpsae8f8049.jpg
 
What pitman arm are you running? Ideally, you want the length of the pitman arm (center of sector shaft to draglink end) to be the same as the length of the high steer arm (center of kingpin to draglink end). You also want the tie rod holes to be equal on the steering arms so the ackerman angles dont go crazy. As long as everything clears, I like the second picture better.
 
BRADLEY

That 2233L end with the hole in it does not have enough misalignment to be used as a draglink end. When that side droops, you're going to bind. MAYBE not with highsteer, but I'd be surprised if it works.

Did you ream the hole in the 2233L yet? Or did it come reamed? You could always ream from the back and put the draglink end in from the rear instead of the front so it clears?

EDIT: Nevermind, just double checked the pics. Normally the 2233L doesn't come reamed...
 
The pitman arm is a drop pitman arm from a bronco. Its got about 6" c-c and so does the rear hoke on the arm. Im leaning twords that second picture as well. With the 2233l installed the drag link has maybe 10 degrees of slope since the arms ave a corrective angle machined into them. Not to mention i dont think this thing is going to be a flexzilla so i dont think i have much binding to worry about. I guesd i could change it later if it becomes an issue. And yes this is bradley!
 
Go with the second picture, IMO.

SICK powdercoating by the way, but not nearly as nice as your rims dawg.

I think I'm headed out your way next weekend(the 16th?), want that steering shaft?
 
MoparManiac said:
BRADLEY

That 2233L end with the hole in it does not have enough misalignment to be used as a draglink end. When that side droops, you're going to bind. MAYBE not with highsteer, but I'd be surprised if it works.

Did you ream the hole in the 2233L yet? Or did it come reamed? You could always ream from the back and put the draglink end in from the rear instead of the front so it clears?

EDIT: Nevermind, just double checked the pics. Normally the 2233L doesn't come reamed...
Click to expand...

This.

Second pic, don't use that long TRE.
 
Second pic would have great turning radius and be quick, but steering power will be lower than if the drag link was mounted further from the kingpins. Might be bearable, might suck taint.

and that is my 2 cents.
 
can't you use a pitman arm off of an astro van (maybe?) so that it works 180 degrees off of the stock orientation?

also, why wouldn't you get the rufftuff steering setup with the 4 normal tie rod ends if your steering arms were setup that way in the first place?
 
billyjp2 said:
can't you use a pitman arm off of an astro van (maybe?) so that it works 180 degrees off of the stock orientation?

also, why wouldn't you get the rufftuff steering setup with the 4 normal tie rod ends if your steering arms were setup that way in the first place?
Click to expand...

I probably would have if i had known when i ordered it before christmass. I didnt have either of them in hand so i didnt know what i was going to do. Also I would have to run the astro van box to get the 180* rotation..... Im keeping the psc box. plus its not that far in front that i would need to do that it pretty much lines up with the outer hole. The passenger side having only one hole(further forward of the two on the passenger side) that kinda messing me up here.

So i measures the pitman arm and arms again this morning. The pitman arm is 6.5" hole to hole and the arm is 5.5" from kp to first hole and 7.5" from kp tp second hole. I could allways run it like the first picture but on the outer hole. Im running hydro assist so I would imagine the steering power would be fine on the inner hole as in the second pic. I guess maybe ill get a new end for the drag link instead of the 2233L before i break it then if i do indeed stay with the second pic. Plus that way the tie rod is longer so if i decide i need to go the other way i can just cut it down and slap a new adaptor in it.
 
Last edited:
I have the setup you have in your second picture. Same TREs and everything. The draglink end on the steering arm end bends(like Colin said- doesn't have enough misalignment to it). It bent the first time I ever even flexed it out, I bought a spare to replace it but never changed it out :dunno:. Using the TRE with a hole in it is no problem, at all. I would buy a new TRE for the high steer arm end if you're going to go with using the front hole. The replacement is a bit longer so you'll need to shorten your draglink IIRC.
 
Another thought I had 23 L and ram it from the like Collin like Collin said then I can use the then I can use that on the tie rod and use the end from the tie rod on the drag link the way it is meant to bee on the front hole of the arm
will 6.5" on the Pittman arm and 7.5" on the high steer arm work out alright to get most of the to get most of the steering radius
 
Last edited:
Forget that previous post. that was the result of talking into the phone and having it type for me while driving.

Another thought i had was to run it like picture 1 except on the front hole with a NEW 2233L and have it reamed from the back side and put it on the tie rod and run the other tie rod end on the drag link like it is ment to be run. Or I buy a NEW high missalignment end for the drag link and run it like picture two. The only real difference i see is that the second option puts the drag link 7.5" from the kp and the first option puts it 5.5" from the king pin. In both the tie rod is run in equal spots on the arms.

So it looks like either wa im looking at a new tierod end its just a matter of what would be better with a 6.5" pitman arm.
 
xbaadleej said:
Any one think there would be enough meat on the 2233l to ream it again from the back side?
Click to expand...

I don't see how that would be possible. Is it not already tapered for the otherside? Reaming it from the other side would just take too much material out so it wouldn't seat in the taper before bottoming out. Unless it was a smaller hole before or something.
 
Its probably not even worth trying anyways. I was thinking ream it from the small side of the hole(rear). But i think ill just get a new one and ream it from the back and call it good.
 
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