Remember to remove the CPS, too, because it's in a pretty vulnerable spot to get smashed by the flexplate while you're attempting to remove/install the motor.
I pull the whole drivetrain as a unit like thechief86 does.
Like xjtrailrider, I generally don't disconnect the ac compressor or power steering pump from their hoses - I just unbolt them from the motor and lay them to the side. Easier than recharging/bleeding the darn things when they have to come off the motor anyways.
Rather than disconnecting the fuel line quick disconnects at the fuel rail, I just unplug the entire injector rail from the intake manifold and lay it aside still connected. You'll need new O-rings, but a box of them is like $5.
Gaskets you will want to have on hand:
exhaust manifold "donut"
maybe two new studs or through-bolts for the manifold to downpipe flange if yours look rusty
new exhaust/intake manifold studs for the cyl head, the bolts are usually fine to reuse but I had a stud break in half on me flush with the head surface at the back of the block while trying to reinstall, so I recommend replacing them now. It'd been 50% broken for years from the rust on the break.
manifold gasket - it's like $7 at the parts store
any gaskets that seem to be weeping on the donor motor, it's more fun to do them out of the car
Oh, and use a silver sharpie or masking tape and a marker to number the fuel injector plugs. Everything else is pretty self explanator/only goes on one way, but it's not always obvious which injector plug went on which injector.
Remember to disconnect the grounding strap from the rearmost head bolt before trying to pull the motor.
