bmwe30nut
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Allentown, PA
I'm back...signed up in 2011 to fix up a '95 Sport...it lasted through 2 daughters before it was wrecked (bad road conditions, a new driver, a lot of rear end torque caused the wreck...but it protected my Daughter well...).
Replaced it with a '97 Grand (also the 6 cyl)...lasted several years also (unfortunately, once we sold it to my Daughter's boyfriend, I don't think he changed the oil...and the engine died...)
I was looking though some ads and found someone that wanted a trade on a '99 Sport (6 cyl, Auto Trans, 169K miles) and my Daughter was very interested, so we got it. Gold color, 3" Rough Country lift (she's wanted a lifted Cherokee forever), 31" tires.
It's home now (had to get it towed...went for a test drive the week before with no issues, but the battery was dead when we picked it up and it still wouldn't catch (cranked OK) after jumping and charging it).
It was cheap (sub $800 even with the title transfer)...so it needs work. I'm sore today from working on it yesterday (getting old sucks), but the Daughter wants it on the road....but it still needs a bunch of stuff (some minor, some major), so I can use some advice on any of the things....
In theory, it's my Daughter buying the parts and I'm HELPING her with the work, so I'm trying to find the most cost effective way to get it done.
Major:
Battery loses charge quickly (fresh charge cranks it fine, start it, let it sit for an hour and it barely cranks it over). The battery has a 2015 sticker on it...so I'm replacing it (Interstate Blem for $45 tomorrow). I'm thinking it's likely just the battery (very unlikely anything discharge the battery that quickly, and it reads 13.5V when it's running (and headlights on), so the alternator should be putting out enough power. Anything else I should check?
Trans...only once so far for us (but the previous owner said it did it to him) the AW4 would shudder rather than downshifting from 4th (my daughter relates that she was 'coasting' at interstate speeds, and went to give it gas, but it shuddered rather than downshifting. Is it likely a solenoid in the trans? (Not sure when the trans fluid was last changed, so I have a filter/gasket coming, and I'll probably swap the fluids a couple of times to clear out the old stuff). Any thoughts on this?
Minor:
Rusted through bottom driver's door. Replace the door (and paint to match), or find someone that can weld in the skins? (not sure which is more economical)?
Rust on the rocker on the passenger front (not through the metal yet)...same thing...try to kill the rust with POR 15 and cover, or cut/weld?
There was a rusted through spot (small) on the driver's footwell...but the prior owner put aluminum sheet over it (did a pretty good repair...not pretty, but done well)...might want to cosmetic it up a bit...but overall, those 3 areas are pretty much all the major rust.
Driver's window motor doesn't work (cleaned the switches, and it's getting voltage now but not running (won't be the first window regulator I've done)). Not sure if it's better to have her wait to see if the door is to be welded or just replace it now.
The wiring had some broken areas (at the driver's door hinge part)...I had my daughter fix them...but there's 2 unknown wires (don't match at the door end) coming from the body portion of the vehicle...one brown (and one I can't remember...I'll edit later/tomorrow with that color)...is there a wiring diagram with colors (the door has power mirrors/locks/windows)? I can't seem to find a full replacement (used or new) for that wiring harness (I assume I need:
The Driver's door controls won't LOCK the power locks...tried cleaning the interior of the switch (unlocks fine, but no response on the lock function)..it made the mirrors work better, the other power windows, etc. I'm pretty sure the front passenger door doesn't lock either (but will unlock all the locks)...not sure if it has to do with the unknown wires above, or something in the switch(s) or somewhere else?
Valve cover gasket leak (done those before).
Very tiny coolant leak...you can smell it at the front of the engine (not sure if it's the thermostat/gasket/housing (already ordered), or water pump). I put dye in the coolant to see if I can pinpoint it...but there's no major visible leaks/puddles...and the radiator/overflow tank doesn't seem to be going down at any visible rate.
Parts here/coming: Elbows/grommets for the Valve cover and the Valve Cover gasket. Spark Plugs. Mopar Crank Sensor. Trans filter/gasket. Thermostat housing/thermostat/gasket.
Repairs so far (over the last week):
Because of the dead battery and the hard start even after jumping, I tested the Crank Position sensor (showed infinite resistance)....however, I bought both a Mopar and a Standard Motor Products unit. The Mopar won't be in until later this week, so I swapped the Standard unit in to see if it helped (aside from the battery power being weak, the Standard unit seemed to get it to start easier/run better)...The Mopar part will go in once it gets here (and we'll keep the Standard as a backup).
Evap code (didn't pop up for me) reported by the prior owner...checked things out and the elbow at the intake was dry-rotted enough that the hose was loose...replaced with silicone hose....then, followed everything, and where the hard line (from the gas tank...that's rusted, but not through) goes to the charcoal canister the rubber connector was torn through (also replaced with silicone hose).
Rear hatch hard to work (pulled the panel, adjusted the connector, works fine now).
Rear driver's door stuck...got it loose (rusted at the mechanism, now freed up and lubed well)....waiting on some plastic body pins as all of them are pretty much gone to reinstall the panel.
Driver's door hinge pins bad (door sagged), replaced them...door shuts and opens well (just wish it didn't have that rust).
Any thoughts on major/minor stuff above or even any other suggestions, etc would be greatly appreciated. My Daughter is excited about this, and really wants to get it inspected and on the road and keep it for as long as possible.
Replaced it with a '97 Grand (also the 6 cyl)...lasted several years also (unfortunately, once we sold it to my Daughter's boyfriend, I don't think he changed the oil...and the engine died...)
I was looking though some ads and found someone that wanted a trade on a '99 Sport (6 cyl, Auto Trans, 169K miles) and my Daughter was very interested, so we got it. Gold color, 3" Rough Country lift (she's wanted a lifted Cherokee forever), 31" tires.
It's home now (had to get it towed...went for a test drive the week before with no issues, but the battery was dead when we picked it up and it still wouldn't catch (cranked OK) after jumping and charging it).
It was cheap (sub $800 even with the title transfer)...so it needs work. I'm sore today from working on it yesterday (getting old sucks), but the Daughter wants it on the road....but it still needs a bunch of stuff (some minor, some major), so I can use some advice on any of the things....
In theory, it's my Daughter buying the parts and I'm HELPING her with the work, so I'm trying to find the most cost effective way to get it done.
Major:
Battery loses charge quickly (fresh charge cranks it fine, start it, let it sit for an hour and it barely cranks it over). The battery has a 2015 sticker on it...so I'm replacing it (Interstate Blem for $45 tomorrow). I'm thinking it's likely just the battery (very unlikely anything discharge the battery that quickly, and it reads 13.5V when it's running (and headlights on), so the alternator should be putting out enough power. Anything else I should check?
Trans...only once so far for us (but the previous owner said it did it to him) the AW4 would shudder rather than downshifting from 4th (my daughter relates that she was 'coasting' at interstate speeds, and went to give it gas, but it shuddered rather than downshifting. Is it likely a solenoid in the trans? (Not sure when the trans fluid was last changed, so I have a filter/gasket coming, and I'll probably swap the fluids a couple of times to clear out the old stuff). Any thoughts on this?
Minor:
Rusted through bottom driver's door. Replace the door (and paint to match), or find someone that can weld in the skins? (not sure which is more economical)?
Rust on the rocker on the passenger front (not through the metal yet)...same thing...try to kill the rust with POR 15 and cover, or cut/weld?
There was a rusted through spot (small) on the driver's footwell...but the prior owner put aluminum sheet over it (did a pretty good repair...not pretty, but done well)...might want to cosmetic it up a bit...but overall, those 3 areas are pretty much all the major rust.
Driver's window motor doesn't work (cleaned the switches, and it's getting voltage now but not running (won't be the first window regulator I've done)). Not sure if it's better to have her wait to see if the door is to be welded or just replace it now.
The wiring had some broken areas (at the driver's door hinge part)...I had my daughter fix them...but there's 2 unknown wires (don't match at the door end) coming from the body portion of the vehicle...one brown (and one I can't remember...I'll edit later/tomorrow with that color)...is there a wiring diagram with colors (the door has power mirrors/locks/windows)? I can't seem to find a full replacement (used or new) for that wiring harness (I assume I need:
56009824AE as the correct part number)?
The Driver's door controls won't LOCK the power locks...tried cleaning the interior of the switch (unlocks fine, but no response on the lock function)..it made the mirrors work better, the other power windows, etc. I'm pretty sure the front passenger door doesn't lock either (but will unlock all the locks)...not sure if it has to do with the unknown wires above, or something in the switch(s) or somewhere else?
Valve cover gasket leak (done those before).
Very tiny coolant leak...you can smell it at the front of the engine (not sure if it's the thermostat/gasket/housing (already ordered), or water pump). I put dye in the coolant to see if I can pinpoint it...but there's no major visible leaks/puddles...and the radiator/overflow tank doesn't seem to be going down at any visible rate.
Parts here/coming: Elbows/grommets for the Valve cover and the Valve Cover gasket. Spark Plugs. Mopar Crank Sensor. Trans filter/gasket. Thermostat housing/thermostat/gasket.
Repairs so far (over the last week):
Because of the dead battery and the hard start even after jumping, I tested the Crank Position sensor (showed infinite resistance)....however, I bought both a Mopar and a Standard Motor Products unit. The Mopar won't be in until later this week, so I swapped the Standard unit in to see if it helped (aside from the battery power being weak, the Standard unit seemed to get it to start easier/run better)...The Mopar part will go in once it gets here (and we'll keep the Standard as a backup).
Evap code (didn't pop up for me) reported by the prior owner...checked things out and the elbow at the intake was dry-rotted enough that the hose was loose...replaced with silicone hose....then, followed everything, and where the hard line (from the gas tank...that's rusted, but not through) goes to the charcoal canister the rubber connector was torn through (also replaced with silicone hose).
Rear hatch hard to work (pulled the panel, adjusted the connector, works fine now).
Rear driver's door stuck...got it loose (rusted at the mechanism, now freed up and lubed well)....waiting on some plastic body pins as all of them are pretty much gone to reinstall the panel.
Driver's door hinge pins bad (door sagged), replaced them...door shuts and opens well (just wish it didn't have that rust).
Any thoughts on major/minor stuff above or even any other suggestions, etc would be greatly appreciated. My Daughter is excited about this, and really wants to get it inspected and on the road and keep it for as long as possible.
