Help !! she died

[Ecomike]

I could not find my fuel pressure tester. nor my 2nd cps.
I did push the shrader valve down with the key in. and did not get a spirt of fuel.
popped the hose off. and there was fuel in the rail. a lot leaked out.
Should it spray out if the key is in the on position ?
may I actually have a fuel issue ?

That adds to my earlier diagnosis of a possible leaking FPR, since you later said you have 39 psi at the rail.

 

[blu3fan]

That adds to my earlier diagnosis of a possible leaking FPR, since you later said you have 39 psi at the rail.

I have a red schrader in there instead of a blue one. it does not let fuel leak past when depressed. (the box said its rated for fuel. but no fuel leaks past) I am going to replace this soon tho.
but when removed it has pressure. theres no loss in pressure so I am not convinced this is fuel related.
Bought a new coil off the internet Ill get back if that fixes it.

 

[blu3fan]

Speaking of vacuum leaks.
I taped up all the lines a few days ago. (wrapped them all in electrical tape)
No change.

So the other day. the vacuum line from manifold to map sensor was broken.
I fixed it with a piece of fuel line that tightly pushed both sides in to create a seal.
Ill put some "great stuff sealant" around the fpr connectors. and see if there is a change. I do know that the connector from fpr to the manifold is pretty rotted from fuel.

 

[Ecomike]

If you have no spark then it sounds like the ICM under the coil, it fires the coil, or loose contacts internally between the Coil and the ICM. Take it apart and clean them to bright metal and tighten them. Check the potting material under the ICM for overheating damage from a burned out resistor or something on the sealed circuit board. ICM is the bottom half of the coil. They are two different parts. Mine was a Bad ICM, Ignition Control Module

I think you are not following the FPR comments I made. There is a diaphragm in the FPR that goes bad, When it does, it dumps raw fuel into the intake through the vacuum hose, by passing the fuel injectors and flooding the engine. That can cause back fires in the exhaust. At WOT the ECU cuts off fuel to the Injectors and unfloods the engine, dries it back out. Such A leak in the FPR can mimic no spark when you know you have fuel.

If you have no spark out of the HV coil that must be fixed. You are down to the ICM and HV coil there. You could have more than problem. Check that vacuum line on the FPR by removing it from the FPR and prime the fuel rail (switch the ignition to ON), and see if there is any hint of fuel in the male nipple of the FPR. IF there is any smell or wet spot the FPR is BAD.

 

[Ecomike]

I do know that the connector from fpr to the manifold is pretty rotted from fuel.

WHAT?????? There should be no fuel, zero, nada in that vacuum line from the FPR to the Intake Manifold

 

[blu3fan]

WHAT?????? There should be no fuel, zero, nada in that vacuum line from the FPR to the Intake Manifold

it was from a few years back when the fuel pressure regulator failed.
I have yet to see an online store that has that line. the ones I have bought before have every connector but that one... so I had it taped up before. but I guess the fuel from before had soaked into it.
I just sealed it all up with "goop" to be sure. and did the test you said.
0 fuel out the hose with it disconnected.

 

[blu3fan]

I was trying to figure out where the ICM is. They stopped using them after 90.
this is a 92.
so gotta be the coil.
Unless. it actually is the cps. and the one I got from O'rilley was faulty

 

[Ecomike]

0 fuel out the hose with it disconnected.

NO, NO, NO, not the hose, the fuel will leak out the steel male nipple of the Fuel Pressure Regulator that the hose attaches to.

 

[Ecomike]

I was trying to figure out where the ICM is. They stopped using them after 90.
this is a 92.
so gotta be the coil.
Unless. it actually is the cps. and the one I got from O'rilley was faulty

Thanks, I was under the impression they were still used till 96 or even 98.

 

[Ecomike]

I was trying to figure out where the ICM is. They stopped using them after 90.
this is a 92.
so gotta be the coil.
Unless. it actually is the cps. and the one I got from O'rilley was faulty

A lot of people here say to use only the Mopar OEM CPS. I have no idea.
Mine are all pre HO, 85-89.

Sure sounding like the coil, wiring .....

 

[blu3fan]

NO, NO, NO, not the hose, the fuel will leak out the steel male nipple of the Fuel Pressure Regulator that the hose attaches to.

I understood what you meant. 0 fuel

 

[blu3fan]

So before I had spark when I tested. it was blue/white.

now i had nothing. Im hoping this is the coil. but kinda convinced its cps or iacv

good news. I got a msd one new for $8 online.

 

[Ecomike]

Bad IACV will not cause a no spark. I am worried that the comments you made about the CPS melted wires is still an issue, maybe damaged the ECU computer ? under the hood. I read that the ICM is now in the ECU itself since 1991 (thanks for correction on that). With a little luck it will be the coil that was going bad and it finally died.

The old coil should be easy to test IIRC? I think they are charged by applying 12 volts and ground to the input side, then when you remove the 12 V, the magnetic field colapses and fires the HV across the plug? I am not an EE, but if that is right it should be easy to rig up a scrap wire alligator clips rig to test them? Most of us have a good known spare to swap.

Nice price on the new one.

 

[blu3fan]

Bad IACV will not cause a no spark. I am worried that the comments you made about the CPS melted wires is still an issue, maybe damaged the ECU computer ? under the hood. I read that the ICM is now in the ECU itself since 1991 (thanks for correction on that). With a little luck it will be the coil that was going bad and it finally died.

The old coil should be easy to test IIRC? I think they are charged by applying 12 volts and ground to the input side, then when you remove the 12 V, the magnetic field colapses and fires the HV across the plug? I am not an EE, but if that is right it should be easy to rig up a scrap wire alligator clips rig to test them? Most of us have a good known spare to swap.

Nice price on the new one.

My thinking excately on the iacv. but it may be a contributor to the no start issue.
I feel like I should note. Since I rebuilt the engine into a stroker. I have struggled with low idle issues. 500 rpm idle.
Im kinda convinced its the comp cam I am running. since back then I tested every sensor and everything came up to specs with ohm testing.
But I really fear you are correct and there is some underlying wiring / computer issue here and maybe shes finally gone.
Can only throw parts at her and hope for the best. Plus it really cannot hurt to get some extra sensors.



Your fear about the wiring having messed up something. I ran the wires under the plastic loom through the intake instead of around it. and after 6 years of the header heat. the connector only was pretty degraded. its like the plastic got too hot and cracked. the wires themselves all look perfect. I feel like melted was an overreaction at the time It was dark in a parking structure at the bottom level :/..
I used a small motorcycle carb file to grind the inside terminals. since they looked a little rusty.
Maybe I should just cut the whole connector off and solder it all together...



Thinking about this.
Why would I have perfect spark. then no spark at all.
all the symptoms point to cps.

 

[Green Mesa XJ]

How's the distributor look?


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[blu3fan]

Everything looks good. its turning. cap and rotor are like a year old tops. maybe less.
Might replace them just to do it.

 

[Green Mesa XJ]

Well the other CPS can position is in the distributor. There should be a way to test it but I don't know what it is off the top of my head.
I've heard of starting problems being I. The distributor is why I brought it up.


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[Ecomike]

Electrical parts and sensors, etc rarely fail completely all at once. They die in stages, work one minute then not the next, work partly one minute and so on. That is why they are so hard to diagnose.

 

[blu3fan]

Electrical parts and sensors, etc rarely fail completely all at once. They die in stages, work one minute then not the next, work partly one minute and so on. That is why they are so hard to diagnose.

Yep. sometimes you have to guess based upon symptoms and hope for the best.

 

[blu3fan]

Ignition coil arrived.
Ill get back either later tonight or tomorrow with what happens.
*edit*
way too dark. Tomorrow morning.