Help me build my front 60

What about a D60 center section with Spidetrax Knuckles, unit bearing, etc? Probably more $$ then your looking at but would be a good solution for outers.
 
decided to go 60 huh Rick, good choice do it and be done, what year did you find in az, my 79 60 came from MO, so i paid a bit more due to shipping, but she's almost a rollin axle now, replaced every bearing in it and the 14bolt and that was quite an expense in it self..LOL
 
I'd be narrowing it down to 61". With the later model front end I can cut just the passenger side to get it to the width I want.
That might also allow me to use a stock axle from the earlier model to get the length I need.

The 78/79 longside axle shaft will only shorten your overall width a couple inches. You can use a longside axle shaft from the generation before the 78/79 to shorten your overall width 4 or so inches, but you'd still be at 65" WMS. I'm pretty sure that if you want 61", you'll have to cut and respline your original shaft or order a custom alloy shaft.
 
Rick, remember that all HPD60's come stock with 30 spline stub axles. You need to either order 35 spline alloy stubs, 35 spline D70 stubs (Parts Mike), or use Dodge outers which are 33 spline.

Rick and I are going through ball joints, but he wheels almost every weekend and I've run a couple King of the Hammers. I still question the longevity of ball joints with 40" tires when you run hard, but all Dynatrac and Currie built D60's are ball joint and no one seems to be having any issues with them.

Look at Parts Mike's website for ideas and prices on upgrades to a stock D60, like 35 spline stubs and 5 on 5.5 hub kits, and 1/2 ton brake conversions. If you go aftermarket on the outers and want 5 on 5.5, the Tera60 outers are the best value and they use 33 spline Dodge unit bearings and 1/2 ton brakes, and any aftermarket D44 high steer arms, though Tera's own high steer arms are the cheapest price.

Currie and Dynatrac do custom machining to put high teer arms on balljoint knuckles, and it would be very difficult to do it with stock balljoint knuckles. Stock kingpin 60 knuckles use the four 1/2 bolts that hold the upper kingpin retainer to mount the high steer arms, and it's a known weak design, with plenty of people shearing off the bolts. This is why the aftermarket kingpin knuckles come with five bolts, the extra bolt is at the front where most of the load is. Plus, four 1/2 bolts is nothing like the three 9/16" studs and cone washers on D44 high steer arms, and many drill and tap the D44 stuff to 5/8's (mine are 5/8's, plus I welded them on).

Chromo axle shafts are not that expensive, and the stock axle u-joints are pretty stout. If you're going to have to use custom length shafts, might as well spend the dough and get some good ones that you'll never break.

Have fun, :wave:
 
Its about time you replied to my thread!
Billavista's log seems to suggest a 35 spline 60 out of the late 70's Ford F-350
(although I'll double check that in the morning.)
I have both a ball joint and a king pin 60 tracked down and in holding patters for me. It is quite possible (okay, probable) that I will buy both of them.
The one I don't use will go into my diesel 4X.
 
decided to go 60 huh Rick, good choice do it and be done, what year did you find in az, my 79 60 came from MO, so i paid a bit more due to shipping, but she's almost a rollin axle now, replaced every bearing in it and the 14bolt and that was quite an expense in it self..LOL

Kevin, did you narrow it or are you going full width?
 
im keepin the full width with 5 or 6 inch backspacing....heres the fun i had today
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Having worked with Goatmans balljoint front 60 (tera with i believe dodge knuckles, balljoints/unit bearing) and Crackers (hi-9 with solid knuckles, kinpin/hub)

That is a lie. You have never worked on my axle nor would I ever permit you to wrench on my axles.
 
No. You have never done anything 'with' them.

Oh that is right......you read about it somewhere while web wheeling :rolleyes:
 
I'd be narrowing it down to 61". With the later model front end I can cut just the passenger side to get it to the width I want.
That might also allow me to use a stock axle from the earlier model to get the length I need.
That also opens up the option of leaving the eight bolt hubs and even leaving the rear a ff, just cut down.

The possibilities are endless......

What size tires? 61" is too narrow for a cherokee and 37s never mind 40s.
 
That is also the information I'm looking for.
Suggested WMS distance?

Depends on tires and then you must consider your backspacing THEN consider your control arm set up (to prevent rubbing).

For 40s, I would guess around 64-65".

For 37s, I had run 62.5" with 4.5" backspacing with minor rubbing on my LCAs.

I have 42s and I my 609 is 65" with VERY little rubbing on the LCAs
 
Depends on tires and then you must consider your backspacing THEN consider your control arm set up (to prevent rubbing).

For 40s, I would guess around 64-65".

For 37s, I had run 62.5" with 4.5" backspacing with minor rubbing on my LCAs.

I have 42s and I my 609 is 65" with VERY little rubbing on the LCAs

I'll be building the control arms after I set up the axle location.
The plan is to run 39's or so.
I may end up getting different wheels, but that will also be determined
by axle location.

More to cogitate on....
 
I'll be building the control arms after I set up the axle location.
The plan is to run 39's or so.
I may end up getting different wheels, but that will also be determined
by axle location.

More to cogitate on....

I would keep it 64" to 65" with that tire size unless you are building a buggy that is not based on an XJ and is SUPER narrow (single seater, etc.)

When a 39" tire turns, it covers quite the span and you will contact the chassis/LCAs easily if not wide enough.
 
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