Roads
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Portland, OR
Anyone have a favorite for OEM replcement headlights? The brighter the better.
Headlight
- Thread starter Roads
- Start date
Idiot Wind
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Littleton, Colorado
A lot of folks seem to run the Sylvania Silverstars. I got them off a recommendation here and I like 'em. MUCH better than the stockers.
92DripCherokee
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Tampa, Florida
Second the Silverstars, they're worth it.
Rick Anderson
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lusby, MD
Theres specs/laws on headlamps on how bright/dim they can be, so no matter which one you buy they should be roughly the same brightness. There are a few that advertise being brighter, because there is +/- in the spec, they make sure those headlamps are on the + side and are little brighter than most lights you get. But the difference between the average light off the shelf compared against a light that is at the upper most limit of the allowable light, would probably only be a incrimental difference that you could barely notice.
I've heard more than once that the GE NightHawk are the brightest around.
Do a google search about the Blue Headlamps and read some of the facts about them, they actually put out less light. The Silverstars are one them I believe. Just look at bulb and if you can tell they are blue filtered, I'd put them back down.
The blue bulbs can vary, but some people put them on so that they look like they have HID lights, which they may have that blue haze to another driver, they give you less light than a regular bulb, let alone a HID bulb.
Some people believe they are better lights because of its unique effect. The blue filtered lights will have a different light temperature, so the light reflected off objects close to you will be more colorful and more brilliant, so you think you have brighter lights, but the blue filter removes most of the total energy from the light, so the light isn't as bright and doesn't travel as far. So, the blue lights can look brighter when viewing objects close to you, but it will light less objects further down the road and light less road in front of you.
You can find more than one web site that will present the facts on blue headlamps and declare them snake oil.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/blue/bad/bad.html
I've heard more than once that the GE NightHawk are the brightest around.
Do a google search about the Blue Headlamps and read some of the facts about them, they actually put out less light. The Silverstars are one them I believe. Just look at bulb and if you can tell they are blue filtered, I'd put them back down.
The blue bulbs can vary, but some people put them on so that they look like they have HID lights, which they may have that blue haze to another driver, they give you less light than a regular bulb, let alone a HID bulb.
Some people believe they are better lights because of its unique effect. The blue filtered lights will have a different light temperature, so the light reflected off objects close to you will be more colorful and more brilliant, so you think you have brighter lights, but the blue filter removes most of the total energy from the light, so the light isn't as bright and doesn't travel as far. So, the blue lights can look brighter when viewing objects close to you, but it will light less objects further down the road and light less road in front of you.
You can find more than one web site that will present the facts on blue headlamps and declare them snake oil.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/blue/bad/bad.html
Daniel Stern Lighting said:
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Roads
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Portland, OR
Thats one hell of a post on headlights. Thanks Rick!
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
Correctly adjusted Hella E codes, running sylvania silver star H4 bulbs. The silverstars are close to a pure white, range is good, bought them as a local source for H4 whites, curious how long they last...
Jim D.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Alexandria, Virginia
I installed Hellas on our 1997 XJ Sport, direct replacement size, purchased mail order from JC Whitney for about $45 each including the bulbs. NO comparison with the OEM Wagners that we used (tolerated??) since 1997. Much, much better.
lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
The first big improvement I did was a wiring harness upgrade with relays. That got rid of the 1.5 volt drop and made a big improvment. Now I'm running some generic e-code housings ($35) from eBay and the SilverStars ($20 from eBay). They aren't blue, but they definitely don't have a yellow tinge.
The crappy bulbs that claim more brightness have a bad pattern that concentrates the light in the center where the light meter is located. The XtraVision bulbs in the round/square actually do have more lumens. The XtraVision 9004 bulbs have roughly the same life and lumens as the regular bulbs so they aren't a better bargin.
The crappy bulbs that claim more brightness have a bad pattern that concentrates the light in the center where the light meter is located. The XtraVision bulbs in the round/square actually do have more lumens. The XtraVision 9004 bulbs have roughly the same life and lumens as the regular bulbs so they aren't a better bargin.
Roads
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Portland, OR
Well I went out and bought the Sylvania Silverstars. I am very impressed with the clear white very bright light. Now I don't have to stare at the yellow nastiness and wonder which way the road will go.
ADVNTURR
I worry when rattles stop
- Location
- Cleveland, OH
I'll second the IPF replacements although I'm running the Magic J bulbs on the factory harness. Love the lights, worth every cent.
langer1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mineral City,Ohio
Sylvania Silverstars are great and Rick the laws only specify wattage not CP/Brightness I think it's 35/55 the Sylvania Silverstars put out 80% more light but still are 35/55 watts.
In Ohio H4's are not street legal but H3's are depending on the year.
In Ohio H4's are not street legal but H3's are depending on the year.
2000XJSPORT
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Illinois
I second Sylvania Silverstars. I have them and they are so much better than thoes stock Wagners.
Alex
Alex
edmaude
NAXJA Member #1368
- Location
- West Milford, NJ
Silverstars are great
Rick Anderson said:
Nope. Silverstars are not blue-tinted. I don't know why this SPOBI keeps getting passed around, but I've had Silverstars in my last four vehicles and can assure you that they put out what's best described as a 'clear' light - white, but not stark. Been very happy with them in both sealed-beam and halogen-replacement forms, and the bulbs have typically outlasted my ownership of the vehicles in question - five years, in one case.
Having said that, a friend of mine ran Hella E-Codes with even better results in his '88 XJ for several years. Not sure which bulb he used, but the glass pattern gave far superior dispersal to the US-spec lights.
That I agree on. Blue-tint lights are for little more than show purposes, though nothing looks cheesier than advertising that you just can't afford the Xenon upgrade.
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5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Hella E-codes with 90/130W in my 88, Hella Vision Plus with 50/80W in another.
I have to admit, both are significantly better than stock, and I've come out ahead since the conversion on buying bulbs (since they can be had fairly cheaply.) Give Susquehanna Motorsports (www.rallylights.com) a quick shufty, and see what you think.
Both feature a sharper cut-off on the dip beam, and a "fuller" full beam pattern (even with OEMR wattage bulbs, which I keep for emergencies,) and they really respond to increased wattages/candlepower.
Having said that, I will say that you should really upgrade wiring if you are going to go to a higher power bulb, but you should notice an improvement at OEMR wattage levels.
SMS gets about $40 per housing for conversions, either way, but their prices on bulbs can't be beat (anywhere near me, anyhow.) I run Hella Super White bulbs in both.
I got the E-Codes, and she got the VPlus - I drive more at night, more in the mountains, and more cross-country. Besides, when we go anywhere together, I usually drive anyhow.
If your local cops are a problem, seriously consider getting the Vision Plus. They carry DoT approval, so you shouldn't get an "equipment" ticket for them. If they're fairly cool, you can get away with the E-codes, you'll just have to take a little more care when you aim them (which you should do anyhow - but keep a low profile.) Considering I'm running something like three times the light power up front as opposed to most late-model vehicles, and I don't even get "flashed," I'd be happy to give you some pointers. (I've had these in place for years.)
One thing that will make sense to you when you read this - you're going to get a better lense in a "composite" headlamp than in a sealed beam. Sealed beam lenses and bowls are disposable, and are therefore not designed as well as they could be. The are also moulded, rather than cut and ground, and they'll pass with flaws that would normally be unacceptable (I've seen lenses with bubbles in them.) You shouldn't get that with replacement housings - simply because they're properly built to last, you just change the bulb, and the only reason for you to replace them is because they take a rock. Therefore, a little more care goes into making them (they're cut and ground more, and if they're moulded, they're "second-opped" for finish) and they won't pass QC with flaws you might see in a sealed beam bulb/housing.
There are wiring kits out there - I've had to put my own prototype on hold while I'm trying to get my head around Java (programming doesn't make as much sense to me as it did last year - although my maths have improved since the accident. Go figure...) but I'm also working on a production "plug-and-play" harness that will be set up to handle up to 200W per filament, and requiring no electrical knowledge to install. Meanwhile, SMS supplies both VPlus and E-Code reflector assemblies with stock wattage bulbs, which will work find on the OEMR wiring.
On RENIX XJ's (1987-1990, and even 1984-1986,) you can get away with up to 80W on the full beam, but keep to the stock dip beam. If you're going to go past that, get a wiring harness.
ChryCo (1991-up) rigs went a little leaner on the front wiring and the switch - don't upgrade on stock wiring.
5-90
I have to admit, both are significantly better than stock, and I've come out ahead since the conversion on buying bulbs (since they can be had fairly cheaply.) Give Susquehanna Motorsports (www.rallylights.com) a quick shufty, and see what you think.
Both feature a sharper cut-off on the dip beam, and a "fuller" full beam pattern (even with OEMR wattage bulbs, which I keep for emergencies,) and they really respond to increased wattages/candlepower.
Having said that, I will say that you should really upgrade wiring if you are going to go to a higher power bulb, but you should notice an improvement at OEMR wattage levels.
SMS gets about $40 per housing for conversions, either way, but their prices on bulbs can't be beat (anywhere near me, anyhow.) I run Hella Super White bulbs in both.
I got the E-Codes, and she got the VPlus - I drive more at night, more in the mountains, and more cross-country. Besides, when we go anywhere together, I usually drive anyhow.
If your local cops are a problem, seriously consider getting the Vision Plus. They carry DoT approval, so you shouldn't get an "equipment" ticket for them. If they're fairly cool, you can get away with the E-codes, you'll just have to take a little more care when you aim them (which you should do anyhow - but keep a low profile.) Considering I'm running something like three times the light power up front as opposed to most late-model vehicles, and I don't even get "flashed," I'd be happy to give you some pointers. (I've had these in place for years.)
One thing that will make sense to you when you read this - you're going to get a better lense in a "composite" headlamp than in a sealed beam. Sealed beam lenses and bowls are disposable, and are therefore not designed as well as they could be. The are also moulded, rather than cut and ground, and they'll pass with flaws that would normally be unacceptable (I've seen lenses with bubbles in them.) You shouldn't get that with replacement housings - simply because they're properly built to last, you just change the bulb, and the only reason for you to replace them is because they take a rock. Therefore, a little more care goes into making them (they're cut and ground more, and if they're moulded, they're "second-opped" for finish) and they won't pass QC with flaws you might see in a sealed beam bulb/housing.
There are wiring kits out there - I've had to put my own prototype on hold while I'm trying to get my head around Java (programming doesn't make as much sense to me as it did last year - although my maths have improved since the accident. Go figure...) but I'm also working on a production "plug-and-play" harness that will be set up to handle up to 200W per filament, and requiring no electrical knowledge to install. Meanwhile, SMS supplies both VPlus and E-Code reflector assemblies with stock wattage bulbs, which will work find on the OEMR wiring.
On RENIX XJ's (1987-1990, and even 1984-1986,) you can get away with up to 80W on the full beam, but keep to the stock dip beam. If you're going to go past that, get a wiring harness.
ChryCo (1991-up) rigs went a little leaner on the front wiring and the switch - don't upgrade on stock wiring.
5-90
5-90 said:
Quick hijack: I'd like to hear more about pointing the damn things properly. I don't seem to be able to get the Silverstars to put light where I want it since the lift, and am getting tired of oncoming motorists flashing their lights because mine are right in their eyes.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Not at all - since we're still OT with this anyhow...
How much did you lift? It makes a difference (especially with all the boy racers out there slamming Hondas. What's the point? If you want a damn skateboard, just get a damn skateboard - it will be cheaper anyhow. Hmm... a skateboard with Briggs & Stratton power...)
Anyhow, I'm going to have to make an assumption here - and that assumption is that you have access to a wall you can put masking tape on (or just use a fine-tip Sharpie, if it belongs to you) and room to park with your lights about 30' away from it. For obvious reasons, it's best to do this around late dusk - still enough light to see what you're doing, but dark enough to make out the shape of the beam.
Face directly at the wall - the longwise centreline of the vehicle should be perpendicular to the wall face. THIS IS IMPORTANT - if you can't get reasonably close, use another wall. Measure off 30' if you can.
Run straight lines from the horizontal centres of the headlamps straight forward (paralllel to the longwise centreline of the vehicle) to the wall, and put vertical strips of tape or vertical lines continuing upward from the ground.
Measure from the ground STRAIGHT UP to the vertical centre of the headlamps (halfway up the lense,) and remember that measurement. Cross the lines on the wall at the same height.
Aim the driver's side headlamp. This dip beam should just touch the horizontal line you've put on the wall, and the "core" (bright part) of the beam should just touch the right side of the vertical line. This has the effect of aiming the driver's side headlamp "down and in" slightly, which will keep it out of oncoming drivers' eyes.
The right headlamp should be centred on the vertical line, just touching the horizontal, on dip beam.
Once you have those aimed, check your full beams - the should be on the same vertical centres, but should be higher horizontally. If they're not, find out why - it's a defect, not an aiming problem.
This is how I aim my extra-bright E-codes, by Vision Plus lamps, and any other headlamps I have - and it works. It's a little more work that using an "aiming kit," and it doesn't aim quite the same way, but it's more effective, gives a better field of view, and doesn't annoy other drivers. If I could only get more people to do it out here...
The only time you should have to re-aim your lamps are:
A) if you have front-end structural work done.
B) you change your ride height
C) you convert from one style of headlamp to another
D) you change reflectors/lenses, NOT bulbs.
Once you have your headlamps aimed, they should bloody well STAY aimed, unless you somehow dork around with the screws that aim them or bend some metal up front. It's good to recheck - it points up worn aiming screws/springs - but once a year should do neatly. Once you have the lamps aimed, DON'T TOUCH THE AIMING SCREWS! Mine still have marks on them (marker marks) from when my kids were here, and I had to teach them A) how to aim headlamps, and B) yes, I can tell when you mess with my vehicle, so don't. You'll only get it back in spades...
If you've gone past, say, 3" of lift (I used to have E-codes on my 87 3"/31's,) let me know so we can revise this procedure.
5-90
How much did you lift? It makes a difference (especially with all the boy racers out there slamming Hondas. What's the point? If you want a damn skateboard, just get a damn skateboard - it will be cheaper anyhow. Hmm... a skateboard with Briggs & Stratton power...)
Anyhow, I'm going to have to make an assumption here - and that assumption is that you have access to a wall you can put masking tape on (or just use a fine-tip Sharpie, if it belongs to you) and room to park with your lights about 30' away from it. For obvious reasons, it's best to do this around late dusk - still enough light to see what you're doing, but dark enough to make out the shape of the beam.
Face directly at the wall - the longwise centreline of the vehicle should be perpendicular to the wall face. THIS IS IMPORTANT - if you can't get reasonably close, use another wall. Measure off 30' if you can.
Run straight lines from the horizontal centres of the headlamps straight forward (paralllel to the longwise centreline of the vehicle) to the wall, and put vertical strips of tape or vertical lines continuing upward from the ground.
Measure from the ground STRAIGHT UP to the vertical centre of the headlamps (halfway up the lense,) and remember that measurement. Cross the lines on the wall at the same height.
Aim the driver's side headlamp. This dip beam should just touch the horizontal line you've put on the wall, and the "core" (bright part) of the beam should just touch the right side of the vertical line. This has the effect of aiming the driver's side headlamp "down and in" slightly, which will keep it out of oncoming drivers' eyes.
The right headlamp should be centred on the vertical line, just touching the horizontal, on dip beam.
Once you have those aimed, check your full beams - the should be on the same vertical centres, but should be higher horizontally. If they're not, find out why - it's a defect, not an aiming problem.
This is how I aim my extra-bright E-codes, by Vision Plus lamps, and any other headlamps I have - and it works. It's a little more work that using an "aiming kit," and it doesn't aim quite the same way, but it's more effective, gives a better field of view, and doesn't annoy other drivers. If I could only get more people to do it out here...
The only time you should have to re-aim your lamps are:
A) if you have front-end structural work done.
B) you change your ride height
C) you convert from one style of headlamp to another
D) you change reflectors/lenses, NOT bulbs.
Once you have your headlamps aimed, they should bloody well STAY aimed, unless you somehow dork around with the screws that aim them or bend some metal up front. It's good to recheck - it points up worn aiming screws/springs - but once a year should do neatly. Once you have the lamps aimed, DON'T TOUCH THE AIMING SCREWS! Mine still have marks on them (marker marks) from when my kids were here, and I had to teach them A) how to aim headlamps, and B) yes, I can tell when you mess with my vehicle, so don't. You'll only get it back in spades...
If you've gone past, say, 3" of lift (I used to have E-codes on my 87 3"/31's,) let me know so we can revise this procedure.
5-90
Rick Anderson
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lusby, MD
Geee, thats look like a BLUE bulb to me. Then again, I could never see any clothes on the emporer either.
Did you guys read thru the Daniel Stern sight?? He specifically points out the Sylvania Silverstars, as one of the Extra-White Lights which is one of the good "BLUE" filtered lights. They aren't as bad as the blue tinted lights, but they are blue filtered lights that cut down on total light power. The "Extra-White" aren't as bad, because the blue filter changes the color temperature of the light, and give you more brillant reflected light close in. BUT, they don't produce as much light as the clear bulbs.
The Silverstars may claim they have 80% more light, thats because the filament is overdriven to make up for the majority of the light that is filtered out by the blue filter glass. The light coming out of the glass is less than a clear bulb, even if the over driven filament inside the glass bulb is 80% brighter, most of that light is filtered out before leaving the bulb.
As far as specs for headlamps being only the power they consume, wattage, I can't find the actual SAE Spec, I've seen in more than one spot that different bulb have a standard for not only power consumed but the illumens of output for the bulb as well. Don't bother looking at the DOT spec it will only refer you too the SAE Spec.