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I ran the set from speed daddy and they fell apart after 500 miles, such a piece. I never even got them wet. I then ordered APN header and it is great so far. A friend has gone thought 3 of the Banks and they fail but they will replace. Just a waste of time. http://www.ineedparts.com/apn-jeep-exhaust-manifold.html
Don't wrap these just leave them raw and you should be great.
It does not really matter what brand you get.They ALL are made in china so get the cheapest one you can. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-4-0L-St...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ea569f4b&vxp=mtr
I have had mine on for 3 years now,no cracks.As you can see people spend $ and get a Banks and have issues...just my $0.02 WHATEVER YOU DO do NOT get the one with the "Bellows" they suck .I had one on my other Jeep and when it failed after 5 years it broke right at the bellows.When I switched to the ebay one it had a much better exhaust note,a little better power could be felt too.No it wasn't due to the O2 sensor detecting lean either.
Except maybe this one would be OK Made in USA...but $$$$$$$ http://www.ebay.com/itm/aFe-Twisted...es&fits=Make:Jeep&hash=item2ec0ae97f8&vxp=mtr
Pacesetters are made in USA and are of the long tube, Tri-Y design (best type for torque, as far as I am concerned) and are reasonably priced and come with a mandrel bent crossover pipe. My engine is definitely torquey-er (sp)and they sound awesome (changed the sound completely). Also, they should last longer because of the long tube design, it allows more length of tube to flex due to the heat/cool cycles. Should be less cracking. That is the good.
The bad is, at least in my case, is mine had to be tweaked to fit correctly and the O2 sensor was in the wrong place. They put it directly under the tranny cooler lines facing straight up. Maybe it was for a manual trans.
If you don't mind a little fabbing, These are great. I would recommend them.
Pacesetters are made in USA and are of the long tube, Tri-Y design (best type for torque, as far as I am concerned) and are reasonably priced and come with a mandrel bent crossover pipe...
The bad is, at least in my case, is mine had to be tweaked to fit correctly and the O2 sensor was in the wrong place.
Yes, you are correct about the fitment, the fitment sucked. The only reason I suggest using them is that they are very reasonably priced (you can find them for about $220.00 if you look) and they are one of the only (and maybe THE only) long tube and tri-Y design which gives the best torque.
The one caveat is that you must be willing to do a little work to them, so you must have welding/fab skills.
What I found wrong on my set and what the solution was:
1- When bolted to the block with crossover pipe, the crossover pipe was hitting one of the bellhousing bolt bosses. Solution- Heated pipes where they go into the 2 small collectors and slightly moved the assembly about 1/2" away.
2-Crossover pipe wasn't exactly bent correctly and didn't line up with the factory 4 bolt flange on the front of the cat convertor. Solution- A couple of cuts with a thin cutoff wheel mounted on a 4 1/2" grinder in the right place, bend until the edges of the cut touched and then mig'd (or Tig) them together and smoothed with a flap wheel.
3- O2 sensor bung mounted in wrong place, causing sensor to hit auto trans cooler lines. This problem only applies to auto trans equipped XJ's, I think manual trans XJ's would be fine. Solution- Ground off bung, capped and welded hole, purchased a new bung from local exhaust shop ($5.00) and welded it into stock factory location.
That's pretty much all that needed to be done. The quality of the tubing used is nice and thick gauge, welds are good, flanges are good.
The only other optional things I did to the header was because I have a touch of OCD. I do not like clamped connection of tubing with U clamps. I like fully welded exhaust with flanges for the separation points of the tubes. The way the headers come, they have 3 of the 6 tubes come together in one small collector, and the other 3 into another small collector, then the crossover pipe has the Y that slips on to the 2 small collectors and are clamped with 2 U-clamps. What I did was weld that union and order from Pace Setter another 4 bolt flange assy (that way I could use the factory gasket)and weld that on where the crossover pipe makes the transition from down pipe to the horizontal that goes under the engine/trans. Then I welded in a flex coupling in front of the cat converter, and header wrapped the whole thing to cut down on under hood temps.
Would I suggest this header to someone looking for an easy-peasy bolt on header, no. But with a little work, I think they are a better design and will bring more power and are worth the little bit of extra hassle. Just my 2 cents.
My background is in muscle cars and drag racing. The long tube, tri-Y design is a proven power enhancing set up due to it's scavenging effect.
I'm sure you've answered this before, but what does the KOH car use for an exhaust header? Whatever it is, if it stands up to the abuse that car is put through, then it seems to me it would sell itself.
We've been through 3 engines (upgrades, none blown), 5 transmissions i think, or maybe 6, 5 rolls, one of which was at open desert speed, two hoods, 3 front clips, 2 sets of doors..
