Harold of the Rocks

I cut back the exhaust just before the last 90 you have there and swept it between the crossmember and the floor on the passenger side of the link mount. It is hard mounted from there back. I does make the floor a bit toasty though so I'd recommend some heat shielding and wrap.
 
theres plenty of room, i actually want with a brand new downpipe from advanced and cut it down where it crosses over

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My 3rd link is alot closer to the trans, because of the stupid way i built my x member. I think i have an idea on how im going to make it work. But im too lazy to try and describe it.
 
just move the mount over
x2. you'll probably want it as close to the uniframe as possible. it always swings inboard so no reason not to. do it right the first time, you'll thank yourself later.
 
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x2. you'll probably want it as close to the uniframe as possible. it always swings inboard so no reason not to. do it right the first time, you'll thank yourself later.


I cant move it any more, because of the dumb way I built my X member.

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If I was to do it again I would have done it differently. but Im to far along now and I dont want to buy another piece of box tube. it will be plenty strong when im done, but the packaging is poor, and its going to need more gussets and junk then If I had planed it out better.


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I think ill still have enough room for it though. Im just going to have to wrap it up with some heat shielding so it doesent cook my trans bushing.
 
Move it over a little and recess it into the box tube, big whoop if you loose a little seperation you should beable to move it over to the washers maybee more if you trim the washers
 
Move it over a little and recess it into the box tube, big whoop if you loose a little seperation you should beable to move it over to the washers maybee more if you trim the washers

the part with the washers is a permanently fixed to the jeep. so If I want to be able to take the Xmember out I cant weld the tower to it.
 
I wouldn't run with the bolts that way.
The first time you drag them on a rock you'll be cutting off the threads/nuts to remove the x-member anyway.
 
I wouldn't run with the bolts that way.
The first time you drag them on a rock you'll be cutting off the threads/nuts to remove the x-member anyway.


dont worry Im not. I just had one bolt in on each side to make it easier to locate the holes when puting it up. and I like things to be the same so i did them all that way. when I do the final Install after paint and such Ill install them the other way.
 
so I look to be at almost a 106" wheel base with my front strech. thats with leaving the rear in the stock location. so its about 5" forward.

Im probably going to have to hack up my fenders and lose at leaset my blinkers from my header panel to make it work right. maybe relocate my batt and make the cut up my inner fenders.

I wont really know till I get it on its own weight with the tires on.
 
so I look to be at almost a 106" wheel base with my front strech. thats with leaving the rear in the stock location. so its about 5" forward.

Im probably going to have to hack up my fenders and lose at leaset my blinkers from my header panel to make it work right. maybe relocate my batt and make the cut up my inner fenders.

I wont really know till I get it on its own weight with the tires on.

You've only got ~2 months until Camp UJ, better hurry...
 
angle the bottom of the bracket so it leans over towards the passenger side. when you're compressed on the passenger side and fully drooped on the driver's side is when you'll probably hit the starter.
 
thanks. that makes sense.

I thought I had the axle all set, but it turns out I have a conflict with the front D shaft and the driver side LCA up at the X member. so another afternoon wasted.
 
bummer dude. i know making changes sucks balls. part of the reason my junk is parked for an undetermined amount of time.
 
so I got laid off again. hopefully just for the rest of the week.

I worked on the jeep for about 7 hrs, and somehow got almost nothing done.

I built a stupid 60 dolly with the pinion angle set and holds it at ride height in relation to the rest of the jeep.

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then I made some plates for the front driver side frame rail

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Im going to move my frame side track bar bracket forward alittle bit. im going to use one of the existing 2 holes on the bottom and reuse one on the top and drill a new one up top.

the RE bracket was starting to tear. so I ran a cut off wheel through the crack, smashed it back to the correct shape, and welded the shib up.

some of the plating

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that's about it

oh and I did this

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and thats it.
 
Is that a rustys grill? Cause proto-fab ones have stinger mounts, quadratec told me so
 
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