H4 HID conversion kit

Stallacrew said:
$500 in Canada is like $20 here right?
lol. Well heck, using that math purpleballer could buy four of these kits for the price of one of his hella knock-offs.

Sadly, I bought my lights from www.suvlights.com in Cali, and I had to use US dollars (when they were still worth something lol). Incidentally, the going rate for a professional bi-xenon retrofit is $695 (and you need to ship them your headlights). That's what my buddies charge and our 6054s are too small for retros. You can check out their work at www.izntrbl.com. They did my WJ retro.
 
urban yan said:
lol. Well heck, using that math purpleballer could buy four of these kits for the price of one of his hella knock-offs.

Sadly, I bought my lights from www.suvlights.com in Cali, and I had to use US dollars (when they were still worth something lol). Incidentally, the going rate for a professional bi-xenon retrofit is $695 (and you need to ship them your headlights). That's what my buddies charge and our 6054s are too small for retros. You can check out their work at www.izntrbl.com. They did my WJ retro.

Looks like they do nice work.
 
Let me quote a LOT of accurate information from a lighting EXPERT, Daniel Stern:

"So you've read about HID headlamps and have it in mind to convert your car. A few mouse clicks on the web, and you've found a couple of outfits offering to sell you a "conversion" that will fit any car with a given type of halogen bulb. STOP! Put away that credit card.

An HID kit consists of HID ballasts and bulbs for "retrofitting" into a halogen headlamp. Often, these products are advertised using the name of a reputable lighting company ("Real Philips kit! Real Osram kit! Real Hella kit!") to try to give the potential buyer the illusion of legitimacy. Fact: While some of the components in these kits are sometimes manufactured by the companies mentioned, the components aren't being put to their designed or intended use. Reputable companies like Philips, Osram, Hella, etc. never endorse this kind of "retrofit" usage of their products.

Halogen headlamps and HID headlamps require very different optics to produce a safe and effective—not to mention legal—beam pattern. How come? Because of the very different characteristics of the two kinds of light source."

"As if the optical mismatch weren't reason enough to drop the idea of "retrofitting" an HID bulb where a halogen one belongs—and it is!—there are even more reasons why not to do it. Here are some of them:

The only available arc capsules have a longitudinal arc (arc path runs front to back) on the axis of the bulb, but many popular halogen headlamp bulbs, such as 9004, 9007, H3 and H12, use a filament that is transverse (side-to-side) and/or offset (not on the axis of the bulb) central axis of the headlamp reflector). In this case, it is impossible even to roughly approximate the position and orientation of the filament with a "retrofit" HID capsule. Just because your headlamp might use an axial-filament bulb, though, doesn't mean you've jumped the hurdles—the laws of optical physics don't bend even for the cleverest marketing department, nor for the catchiest HID "retrofit" kit box.

A relatively new gimmick is HID arc capsules set in an electromagnetic base so that they shift up and down or back and forth. These are being marketed as "dual beam" kits that claim to address the loss of high beam with fixed-base "retrofits" in place of dual-filament halogen bulbs like 9004, 9007, H4, and H13. A cheaper variant of this is one that uses a fixed HID bulb with a halogen bulb strapped or glued to the side of it...yikes! What you wind up with is two poorly-formed beams, at best. The reason the original equipment market has not adopted the movable-capsule designs they've been playing with since the mid 1990s is because it is impossible to control the arc position accurately so it winds up in the same position each and every time.

In the original-equipment field, there are single-capsule dual-beam systems appearing ("BiXenon", etc.), but these all rely on a movable optical shield, or movable reflector—the arc capsule stays in one place. The Original Equipment engineers have a great deal of money and resources at their disposal, and if a movable capsule were a practical way to do the job, they'd do it. The "retrofit" kits certainly don't address this problem anywhere near satisfaction. And even if they did, remember: Whether a fixed or moving-capsule "retrofit" is contemplated, solving the arc-position problem and calling it good is like going to a hospital with two broken ribs, a sprained ankle and a crushed toe and having the nurse say "Well, you're free to go home now, we've put your ankle in a sling!" Focal length (arc/filament positioning) is only just ONE issue out of several.

The most dangerous part of the attempt to "retrofit" Xenon headlamps is that sometimes you get a deceptive and illusory "improvement" in the performance of the headlamp. The performance of the headlamp is perceived to be "better" because of the much higher level of foreground lighting (on the road immediately in front of the car). However, the beam patterns produced by this kind of "conversion" virtually always give less distance light, and often an alarming lack of light where there's meant to be a relative maximum in light intensity. The result is the illusion that you can see better than you actually can, and that's not safe."

"The only safe and legitimate HID retrofit is one that replaces the entire headlamp—that is lens, reflector, bulb...the whole system—with optics designed for HID usage. In the aftermarket, it is possible to get clever with the growing number of available products, such as Hella's modular projectors available in HID or halogen, and fabricate your own brackets and bezels, or to modify an original-equipment halogen headlamp housing to contain optical "guts" designed for HID usage (though it should be noted that "cooking" the lens off a composite headlamp, installing HID optics and re-sealing the lens creates major problems of its own, and does not result in a legal headlamp)."

The expert's website:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

Also, FWIW: I have an "HID Kit" retro'd into my 90mm Hella Projector low beams in my Camaro. In the Jeep, I have extremely bright H4 bulbs, an upgraded wiring harness that included relays, fuses, etc., as well as the Hella E-code headlights. My halogen setup is EQUAL to my HID setup. Just a FWIW.
 
tigerShark said:
why does it come in "an attractive metal case"?

has anyone on here ever been stopped for an "illegal" headlamp?

I've been a Firefighter since '99 and spoken with lots of police officers in regards to Jeep and other automotive related issues.

In regards to lighting, here's what I've asked and their answers:

Me:
"What lighting laws do you typically enforce? What will you cite/warn people for"
Officer:
"I'll issue a citation if the light emitted from the vehicle is too blue. I use the 'paper test' method. I take a plain, white piece of paper. I put it in front of the headlight. If the light cast is blue (not white), I write a citation. I will also issue a citation if the vehicle's headlights are mis-aimed and blind me enough to hinder my sight."

Me:
"Do you pull people over for lights on lightbars being uncovered?"
Officer:
"I've never pulled anyone over for that reason. The one time I did pull someone over was when he had 4 of his overhead lights ON. I couldn't see anything. I turned around and pulled him over."

Among other conversations I've had. Like he said, most of the time it's either glare/mis-aimed OR the color being too blue... which is really anything 6000K and higher, though that depends on each individual officer.
 
Well that must suck for pretty much everyone who buys a new car with HID's cause they're almost all at least 6000K. So you're saying that they're all illegal... lol.
 
PurpleCherokee said:
Well that must suck for pretty much everyone who buys a new car with HID's cause they're almost all at least 6000K. So you're saying that they're all illegal... lol.

You're incorrect. OEM HID lighting is 4300K. The "color difference" you are seeing as a vehicle comes towards you is due to the projector cut off. I've read through this entire thread. Not to be an ass, but you need to do some research, man.

Also, OEM lighting is FMVSS (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards) approved. This means it's all legal and you cannot be cited for anything that's factory on your vehicle. Make sense?
 
MG2000XJ said:
Ghost, thanks for the information.

You're welcome. I've been real big into the lighting scene since the mid 90's. Having done TONS of research, and using a lot of products, I'm happy with my lighting setups. Lighting is the FIRST modification I make to any "new" vehicle purchase. In winter I am always wheeling in the dark, and in summer it's nice to have great lighting on those night drives down to the Jersey Shore, or just around the absolutely BLACK back roads we have here.

I'll take some new photos at some point to show the setups on both my vehicles, and make a new post for it. I'm not setup as nice as that one guy here who's on my HID forum as well, but it's decent. Halogen in the XJ and HID/Projectors in the Camaro :)
 
Purple here's a picture of what you're probably seeing as blue. The blue you're seeing is like Ghost said, the cutoff. No glare, No dazzling. On a perfectly flat road when two cars are facing each other, neither car's lights should be distracting the other. Wheh you see the blue is over bumps/hills when the cutoff hits your eyes or mirrors.

cutoff2.jpg


HID's proper usage.


edit, just realized this is actually a RHD car
 
370572258_zh75C-L.jpg


Fixed for you
 
GhostDakota said:
Also, FWIW: I have an "HID Kit" retro'd into my 90mm Hella Projector low beams in my Camaro. In the Jeep, I have extremely bright H4 bulbs, an upgraded wiring harness that included relays, fuses, etc., as well as the Hella E-code headlights. My halogen setup is EQUAL to my HID setup. Just a FWIW.
No offense man, but I just don't see how you're getting the same lumens from a halogen setup. OEM HIDs produce 3200lumens. Halogens are roughly 800lumens; I just don't see those upgrades would increase your yield 4 fold. Don't get me wrong, I know you're getting way more light with your setup... just not the equivalent for 4x more.



ehall said:
Your buddies sell a HID conversion kit for $159 that looks a lot like this one
Yes, I actually bought two aftermarket 5000k H3C kits from my buddies a year ago. They're my friends but their aftermarket kits were junk (they're always having supplier issues). Let me put it to you this way. I bought the kits in 5000k because I wanted to colormatch my OEM bulbs, and aftermarket bulbs are notorious for being 1000k off their oem counterparts. I had one bulb EXPLODE in my projector; when I took a bulb from the other 5000k kit - it was 8000k.

So I ended up with two 5000k kits whose kelvins didn't match. When my buddy sent me a replacement set of bulbs... their output looked more like 3800k. That's the reality of aftermarket kits; you're buying them at your own peril.



PurpleCherokee said:
Well that must suck for pretty much everyone who buys a new car with HID's cause they're almost all at least 6000K. So you're saying that they're all illegal... lol.
All oem bulbs are either 4100, or 4300k. They have a burn in period (I forgot how long) where they finally settle roughly 200k over their original spec. The color variance you see on these oem HIDs is due to the projector optics (their curvature affects the final appearance).
 
urban yan said:
No offense man, but I just don't see how you're getting the same lumens from a halogen setup. OEM HIDs produce 3200lumens. Halogens are roughly 800lumens; I just don't see those upgrades would increase your yield 4 fold. Don't get me wrong, I know you're getting way more light with your setup... just not the equivalent for 4x more.

I'm running 100 watt low and 170 watt high H4's with the setup I listed. Stock H4's are what, 35-55 watts? I will get photo comparisons of my HID projector setup next to my halogen setup. Granted projector/reflector is quite a bit different, but you can still see what the beam throws. If I have time tonight I'll get the shots for you.
 
urban yan said:
Fair enough, but that sounds like allot of drain on your battery (100/170w). HIDs draw 35w.

I agree with the drain on the battery if the power is off. If you upgrade your alternator & wiring harness, you shouldn't have any issues, though it could definitely wear out an older battery. HID's are a better way to go, but this was cheaper and still quite bright. :)
 
urban yan said:
hehe. no doubt. BTW. I'd love to see pics of that camaro.

Check in the North Atlantic section under the Classifieds there. It and the XJ are for sale lol. I'll do some photos tonight if I get a moment and create a new post for those interested. My wiring isn't done real special or nice or anything (I don't care what it looks like under the hood), but I'll get photos of the harnesses' as well.
 
Hmmm I have an idea, what would it looks like if you put some H3's or H3c's in a hella 500 enclosing? I know the bulbs are TOTALLY different, but I wonder how the FF housing would throw the beams...
 
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