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good replacement for d30

jeepgeek2002

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Jax FL
What does everyone do for a replacement of the d30 when you go to larger than 35" tires.. Im looking at 38's..
Dana 44 or Dana 60?
Dana 44 from a waggy? is that the right drop?
dana 60? is that too much pumpkin drop?
What about the over all length? will it stick out more?

i could search but what fun is that? hasta
 
Oh.. what if i kept the D30 and went with RCV's .. you think 38s or 37s might be pushing it?
 
Needs rockwells or super 60 at the very least
 
Test results show RCV Ultimate CV Axles for Dana 44 to be twice as strong as Dana 44 OEM axle shafts. They're just as tough at a straight angle as they are at extreme angles - where U-jointed axles are at their weakest. An RCV equipped Dana 44 is effectively as strong as a Dana 60, without the extra weight or loss of ground clearance.
 
A 44 with rcvs shafts or alloys and a superjoint style ujoint is an acceptable axle for 38 and smaller tires... Anything larger and you guarantee ring gear failure. The bonus to rcvs is the 33 spline outer, as alloy 19 spline stubs are still considerably weak.

If it were mine I would.....narrow an Hp44 to waggy width, use off the shelf shafts for a waggy, keep your rear 44 and put alloys and exploder brakes on it and redrill to match the 5 on 5.5 pattern of the front.
 
Test results show RCV Ultimate CV Axles for Dana 44 to be twice as strong as Dana 44 OEM axle shafts. They're just as tough at a straight angle as they are at extreme angles - where U-jointed axles are at their weakest. An RCV equipped Dana 44 is effectively as strong as a Dana 60, without the extra weight or loss of ground clearance.

It will never be as strong as a 60 that is a misleading statement..... The ring gear and balljoints become the weakest links but for 38s and down these components are strong enough to do the job.
 
It will never be as strong as a 60 that is a misleading statement..... The ring gear and balljoints become the weakest links but for 38s and down these components are strong enough to do the job.


Yar, beef up your shafts all you want, killing ring gears gets real expensive, real quick.

Rather shred a warrantied chromo and joint...
 
Test results show RCV Ultimate CV Axles for Dana 44 to be twice as strong as Dana 44 OEM axle shafts. They're just as tough at a straight angle as they are at extreme angles - where U-jointed axles are at their weakest. An RCV equipped Dana 44 is effectively as strong as a Dana 60, without the extra weight or loss of ground clearance.

NAXJA SEC testing shows that RCVs can be blown up with 35s (Is that right Tim?).
 
Oh.. what if i kept the D30 and went with RCV's .. you think 38s or 37s might be pushing it?

I watched a TJ run 37" tires on a D30 for a long time while never breaking a shaft or gears. What broke was the cast knuckle. Getting the D30 to handle larger tires comes down to using gussets to strengthen the knuckle and a truss to keep the tubes from shifting.
 
Lennie runs 36 TSL's on his MJ with Dana 30 front.. for 5 years now. never broke a shaft..
All depends on your driving style in my opinion
 
NAXJA SEC testing shows that RCVs can be blown up with 35s (Is that right Tim?).

I have the first set of RCV's that Bobby made and I have never had an issue with 35's I have ripped a ring gear up though. My new R&P is cryo treated for 20% more strength and I'm running a full case Detroit.

You can break anything if you try hard enough though.
 
Lennie runs 36 TSL's on his MJ with Dana 30 front.. for 5 years now. never broke a shaft..
All depends on your driving style in my opinion

SPOBI..... He has broken at least on shaft in the front that I know of. He also does not push it IMHO. He drives smart not with the skinny peddle.
 
A 44 with rcvs shafts or alloys and a superjoint style ujoint is an acceptable axle for 38 and smaller tires... Anything larger and you guarantee ring gear failure. The bonus to rcvs is the 33 spline outer, as alloy 19 spline stubs are still considerably weak.

If it were mine I would.....narrow an Hp44 to waggy width, use off the shelf shafts for a waggy, keep your rear 44 and put alloys and exploder brakes on it and redrill to match the 5 on 5.5 pattern of the front.

This..... :conceited
 
A HP 44 properly polished can run 38s.

BUT, I am wheeling hard, and at the very limits of what you can reliably expect out of a 44 at my tire size.

Yes I have broken RCVs with my 38"TSLs.


Bobby Longfield has worked his cryo magic on my r&p set, and is perfect thru all the broken shafts.
 
It really comes down to how hard you want to wheel.

If you want to wheel with us madmen, never back down, full speed ahead types, build the hell out of a hp44,or for about the same money an average D60 that will be heavier, wider, with less ground clearance, but stronger than a 44.

If you want to trail ride/medium obstacles, pulling cable instead of pulling second gear, just cryo your 30 r&p and install some RCVs, and have fun!
 
It really comes down to how hard you want to wheel.

If you want to wheel with us madmen, never back down, full speed ahead types, build the hell out of a hp44,or for about the same money an average D60 that will be heavier, wider, with less ground clearance, but stronger than a 44.

If you want to trail ride/medium obstacles, pulling cable instead of pulling second gear, just cryo your 30 r&p and install some RCVs, and have fun!

x2.... Tim and Doug have offered some really sound advise. If I have it to go over I would have kept my D44/9" combo or done things different. But oh well....
 
i have a 89 dana 60 i'll sell you haha. pm for details
i know a guy that has a d44 and rcvs with 37 stickys, beats the piss out of it. no problems, but hes been looking into tons for the thought of balljoints breaking.
 
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