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Good place to get the Spicer 211229x?

you sure you cut the outbput shaft straight. What is the angle of your pinion and the angle of your driveshaft?
 
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PW1XJ99 said:
Has anyone had any problems with the Napa import?

I've done the hack and tap, 4* shims, with the front driveshaft and can not get rid of the vibes to save my life.

I've replaced the drive shaft, and double cardon joint with the one from the front of the Jeep, and the vibes are still there. The only thing I haven't replaced is the Napa knock off of the 211229X, and the hack and tap itself.

I had zero vibes with the t-case drop. I took it for a test drive after I did the hack and tap and the vibes start between 65-70 MPH :(

The only thing I can think of is the holes in the Napa part are drilled out too big for the hack and tap bolts. May be it's not lining up perfect????? :confused:


Sorry for the long post, but I've been trying to trouble shoot this for the past 5 months now.. :gonnablow
The flange is "centered" by the step ring,not the bolts.Had the same problem with mine 6 years ago.A month after the h-n-t, I purchased the HD kit and have never had a problem since.The 97-2001's are just sensitive to vibes!
 
96 here. have done 2(96's). one was a 4 1/2" anglegrinder with a cutting wheel laying on my back. One was TC apart, output shaft on chop saw. Both run fine no vibes. But that JB short shaft kit looks sexy.
 
Have the shaft rebalanced.
 
RyanM said:
you sure you cut the outbput shaft straight. What is the angle of your pinion and the angle of your driveshaft?

I'm using the 4* shims with 3"s of lift if that tells you anything.
(everyone said that's what I needed to correct the pinion angle)

What numbers should I be looking for?



Have the shaft rebalanced.


I'm assuming driveshaft is fine. It was running on the fornt of the Jeep with no vibes. (as of now I have no front shaft)
 
pics of your set up. your pinion may be a tad higher than the d.s. . pinion should typically line up with the d.s. 0* on a link set up but can be run 2* low to alow some axle wrap( with fixed output and cv). www.4xshaft.com, what did you do to lift it 3"
 
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PW1XJ99 said:
I'm using the 4* shims with 3"s of lift if that tells you anything.
(everyone said that's what I needed to correct the pinion angle)
What numbers should I be looking for?
I'm assuming driveshaft is fine. It was running on the fornt of the Jeep with no vibes. (as of now I have no front shaft)
You need to get an angle finder.The pinon should be about 1.5-2* below the driveshaft angle!
 
RyanM said:
pics of your set up. your pinion may be a tad higher than the d.s. . pinion should typically line up with the d.s. 0* on a link set up but can be run 2* low to alow some axle wrap( with fixed output and cv). www.4xshaft.com, what did you do to lift it 3"


I'm off to Home Depot to get an angle finder..


Lift is OME with new coils and Leaf packs.



OME 930 ZJ/XJ front coils

2 RE 1333 .75" coil spacers

OME JC1A Leaf springs

OME N35/N36 Nitrocharger shocks



SD532445.jpg














DSCF9024.jpg
 
i used to run ~4" of lift on my hack and tap. 2" RE shims. leaf springs can make a difference tho. hard to see it from picture. Old man may be right as well.
 
Just got back...

The pinion was at 9-10* and the drive shaft was at 11-12*..

I'm having a hard time getting a reading on the pinion angle.

Where's the best place to put the angle finder on the diff housing?

I keep coming up with different readings on the flat spots that look to be in line with the pinion.. (Chrysler 8.25)
 
RyanM said:
i used to run ~4" of lift on my hack and tap. 2" RE shims. leaf springs can make a difference tho. hard to see it from picture. Old man may be right as well.



Were you on stock shackles? Having longer shackles will aim the pinion up too..

Today, I'm putting the driveshaft back up front. I think the hack and tap bolts are wrong. They need a thicker shank where they go through the 211229X to center it when it bolts on to the hack and tap..
 
RCP Phx said:
The flange is "centered" by the step ring,not the bolts.
 


Yeah, I read that. How come I can move it back and forth when bolting it up?

It does seem to be centered..

Everytime I unbolt it, and reinstall it the vibes change..........
 
Alright, I took the driveshaft off the rear and put it back on the front.

I took it out for a few, and the vibes are gone again. I see the is a lip on the hack and tap that pretty much centers that 211229x, but still has back and forth play in it. Maybe that doesn't matter, cause even if I turn the thing a 1/4 turn, it should still line up. (I get that)

Back to square 1. I can rule out the driveshaft being balanced, or bent.

As for now I have a front wheel drive Jeep...... bleh..
 
RyanM said:
i had RE 1.25" shackles*



Which explains why you needed less shim. I still have the stock shackles.





The driveshaft is at 11* degrees may be pushing 12*.




I couldn't get an accurate reading on the diff housing, so I went straight
to the yoke ears.

(the pinion is 1*-2* degrees lower than the driveshaft..)



SD530179.jpg
 
PW1XJ99 said:
Which explains why you needed less shim. I still have the stock shackles.
well i didn't say you NEEDED a 2*. How bad are the vibes? My friends 01 with no lift has more vibes than me. if i were you id get a set of 5 and 3*'s and try. yea waste of money but sometimes ya gotta do that.
 
RyanM said:
i used to run ~4" of lift on my hack and tap. 2" RE shims. leaf springs can make a difference tho. hard to see it from picture. Old man may be right as well.

well i didn't say you NEEDED a 2*.



Right, I was trying to find out why you got away with 2* with an 1" more of lift than me.


How bad are the vibes? My friends 01 with no lift has more vibes than me. if i were you id get a set of 5 and 3*'s and try. yea waste of money but sometimes ya gotta do that.



I plan on adding the OME extra leaf to the pack to get another 1" or so.

I guess I'll do that first, so when I spilt the pack I can add a different shim..


Sounds like I've done everything humanly possible to diagnose the vibes....
 
After all this it turns out I may have gotten a bad H&T.. (the last thing I suspected) I pulled the H&T off, and the output shaft is straight..

Thanks for the help.........
 
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