Chrysler 8.25 wheel studs for aluminum rims

[gba88]

I searched and I really only found people looking for longer studs for the disc conversion. My problem is that I have a set of wrangler grizzly aluminum wheels. They are about twice as thick at the flange where the lugnuts go in vs. the steel wheels. The front studs seem to be long enough, but the rear would be too dangerous to run at the stock length. The length of the thread I measured on mine(rear) from the shoulder is just under an inch.. 15/16ths. This was just the exposed threads, I did not get one out and measure to the head.

I checked the dorman site, but when I filter it by rear, they are all the .618 knurl and only one length of 1 15/32 which would be too short.

Before I knew what the hell I was doing, I bought some Dorman 610-109's that were supposed to be for the front, they measure 1 5/8. Well, I don't know what's going on, but when I put them up to my fronts (without pulling the rotors), they are a good .25" shorter. I never changed the front studs, and have owned the jeep since 2005, I do not believe they were ever changed before me.

So the problem is finding what stud to get for the rear that is about a quarter inch(at least) longer than the ones on the front. And...I don't really KNOW what ones are on the front because apparently they are not the ones Dorman says they should be since the ones on the front of MINE anyway are definitely longer than the 1 5/8.

After seeing some info on here searching and some other forum somewhere, I saw people using 610-260 which is the .618 knurl and is 1 13/16, which to me, seems to be about .25" longer. Would that work for what I'm trying to do here or is there some other one I should be looking at?

I realize this post may be confusing or jumbled...sorry for that!

 

[RCP Phx]

I'm running the 610-260's on my 8.25 with KJ disc's and TJ Rubicon rims and they have great engagement length.

 

[RCP Phx]

Here is my thread.......
https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1142559

 

[gba88]

I'm running the 610-260's on my 8.25 with KJ disc's and TJ Rubicon rims and they have great engagement length.

Ok, great! I kept finding nothing but people who had done the zj disc upgrade. I couldn't find a clear answer about what studs they were using (some used even longer than the 260's I think). I was afraid of bottoming out the lugnuts if I went with too long of a stud. I guess I'll order some from amazon then. They are much cheaper than local. I think the advance only has "1" in stock anyway and didn't even see it at oreilly's as an item they could get. I'm gonna go look at the other thread you bumped to the top. Thanks!

 

[RCP Phx]

You cloud always buy long studs and cut them to the length you want!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7723

 

[gba88]

You cloud always buy long studs and cut them to the length you want!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7723

Yeah Thanks but can't do that price considering I have to watch how much I put into it. It's on borrowed time already...had rockers welded last year and it's a never ending game of patch or "cover" the rust at this point.

I'm thinking that the 610-260's will get the job done. I *almost* was going to try mounting them up on the stock studs, but I would have been just waiting for a wheel to fly off.

Any tricks on pounding studs out that have lived 24 years in the rust belt? I banged on one a little with a 3lb sledge and punch, but didn't budge at all. I didn't want to hit it directly since I figured at that point I'd have to be leaving them on for the time being.

 

[RCP Phx]

Also be aware of the fact that you only need the length of threads engaged to equal the bolt diameter.

 

[gba88]

Also be aware of the fact that you only need the length of threads engaged to equal the bolt diameter.

I did not know that! I read something where a guy said have at least "10" threads engaged.

 

[gba88]

Hi Guys,
I wanted to post a follow up in case anyone else is ever in this situation. The 610-260's were JUNK!!! They were MAYBE 3 threads longer and have the non-threaded piece at the end. The perfect fit I found was the 610-449. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-18102-610-449.aspx

I think I read somewhere that they were on some Rubicon model, but anyway, I was worried because the knurl says .627 and the stock were .618. When I pulled an old one out and checked, the knurl was .615 which of course is because it was already pressed in and about 24 years old. I took my micrometer to the store along with the original stud and found that the 610-449's were coming in at .620 to .623. Don't ask me why, but they are "supposed" to be .627 according to Dorman's site. I checked with the shop's micrometer as well as mine and I checked at a different store as well (A&G and NAPA). The A&G only had 9 LOL ...of course I had to go to another town to get the last one. All I need to do now is get new tires on the alloy rims and I should be good to go.

 

[Anak]

Thank you for the follow up. Good information.

 

[kastein]

I did not know that! I read something where a guy said have at least "10" threads engaged.

In this case what RCP Phx and you said are the same thing. It is a 1/2-20 thread, 10 threads at 20tpi is 1/2", so that is 1 diameter worth of engagement.

I really prefer at least 1.5D (in this case 15 threads or 3/4") but 1 diameter will do.