good lift blocks

[sarvermr]

where can i order some reasonably priced solid steel 2" lift blocks?

i know everyone is going to say NO lift blocks are good lift blocks, but i need some. right now my rear leafs and shackles match my RE 5.5 coils perfectly. i'm putting a radius armed hp d44 up front and the coil buckets sit 2" higher than they do on a d30. i need a way to lift the rear 2" to match the front. i'm already running a longer shackle. i like my flexy springs and don't have the $$$ to buy some larger leafs that won't flex worth a $hit so i'm keeping my rear leafs. and don't worry about axle wrap. i'm building a traction bar to take care of that. its already a necessity even without blocks. please just tell me where to purchase some good solid steel 2" lift blocks.

thanks, matthew

 

[Gil BullyKatz]

Become a member and I'll send ya my 3" blocks for free

 

[bgcntry72]

Rocky Road
These guys are a-holes, but they make steel lift blocks in .5" increments, welded together, and will add a shim if you like.
If you must run blocks, these are all you should consider, unless you can have some made.
Fuggit, have some made.
HTH.

 

[sarvermr]

Become a member and I'll send ya my 3" blocks for free

thanks for the offer but thats an inch more than i need. i know i need to become a member. i've been a free loader for way too long.

Rocky Road
These guys are a-holes, but they make steel lift blocks in .5" increments, welded together, and will add a shim if you like.
If you must run blocks, these are all you should consider, unless you can have some made.
Fuggit, have some made.
HTH.

i'm not a big rocky road fan but i have heard good things about their blocks. but for $65 its going to cost to get them to my door i'd rather have some made like you said.




i've got some 2.5" .250 wall box tube sitting around. if i capped the ends how do you think that would hold up to some abuse? it would be 1/2" more than i need but it would be easy to make.

matthew

 

[sarvermr]

Become a member and I'll send ya my 3" blocks for free

are those blocks solid steel?

 

[Gil BullyKatz]

i've got some 2.5" .250 wall box tube sitting around. if i capped the ends how do you think that would hold up to some abuse? it would be 1/2" more than i need but it would be easy to make.

matthew

SOLID chunk of steel....

lots of hacksaw blades and a protractor for your *

 

[Gil BullyKatz]

are those blocks solid steel?

Don't remember.... I'd have to look

This is what they look like... They have a couple * already built in for pinion angle... You want 'em? Seriously...

 

[MontanaXJ]

Do you want the extra height? If not buy some shorter front coils? Just an idea.

 

[BIG98XJ]

Ive beatin the hell outta my BDS blocks for little more than 2yrs now with no problems, they are tapered also

 

[XJOFFROAD]

where can i order some reasonably priced solid steel 2" lift blocks?

i know everyone is going to say NO lift blocks are good lift blocks, but i need some. right now my rear leafs and shackles match my RE 5.5 coils perfectly. i'm putting a radius armed hp d44 up front and the coil buckets sit 2" higher than they do on a d30. i need a way to lift the rear 2" to match the front. i'm already running a longer shackle. i like my flexy springs and don't have the $$$ to buy some larger leafs that won't flex worth a $hit so i'm keeping my rear leafs. and don't worry about axle wrap. i'm building a traction bar to take care of that. its already a necessity even without blocks. please just tell me where to purchase some good solid steel 2" lift blocks.

thanks, matthew

What we did was take the HP44 and the F9" out of a late model F150. We went with the radius arms too. The stock coils on the F150 match the same height as my RE leaf spring along with shackles. Still sitting at 6.25"

 

[theksmith]

Rocky Road
These guys are a-holes, but they make steel lift blocks in .5" increments, welded together, and will add a shim if you like.
If you must run blocks, these are all you should consider, unless you can have some made.
Fuggit, have some made.
HTH.

A couple of you mentioned bad opinions of rocky-road... can anyone elaborate - I just ordered some parts from them?

 

[Goatman]

I run three Tomken blocks per side, and have for many years (of course, I run a traction bar). The Tomken blocks are 3/4" solid steel and are pinned through, with a hole in the top for the spring bolt, or the pin of another block. They work very well, and can be welded together if you want....mine are.

 

[LBEXJ]

I had a local machinist make my one inch blocks. Gave him the angle I needed to keep my pinion right ... $20 and he furnished the steel.

Don't pay for blocks and have them shipped in ... quote having them made locally. You'll pay way too much for them. Besides, it does not hurt to do business with a local machinist. You never know when you might need his help.

Les

 

[Ludakris]

I will probably get blasted for this but AIM has aluminum blocks that are pressed out of a machine and cut to length. The hold up to 50K psi or something. strong stuff, lowrider guys use them alot. My best advice is do not go cast aluminum cheap crap, I exploded two blocks on a Tacoma, drove the pinion into the bed.... all my friends knew the lowrider....

 

[Johnny V]

A couple of you mentioned bad opinions of rocky-road... can anyone elaborate - I just ordered some parts from them?

I too would like to get a vendor rating for Rocky Road!

 

[Ramsey]

I too would like to get a vendor rating for Rocky Road!

all my dealings with them have been great. ordered from them twice and i am gonna get a no slip soon from them too. now back on topic...

 

[Andy in Pa.]

Get a solid chunk of 2" steel, have a machinist cut them to size and drill a hole through the center of the blocks. This hole should be sized so it may be tapped to a 3/8" bolt thread. Tap the one side of the hole to 3/8" bolt thread and use a Gr 8 Socket head 3/8" bolt loctited into place. This will act as the centering pin into the axle. On the other side of the block, have the machinist bottom drill this part of the hole approx. 9/16" deep. This hole keeps the block centered on the centering bolt on the leaf springs.

If you need to shims, have the machinist build it in.

Id be surprised if this costs you more than $20.

I did this a few years ago (made 1-1/2" blocks) and ran them for quite a while with no problems, besides wrapped springs.

HTH's
Andy

 

[Goatman]

One thing about blocks is that they need to be pinned. They should be bolted to the bottom of the spring pack or should have a hole in the top and a bolt sticking out the bottom......so they can't get kicked out.

I wouldn't use aluminum blocks.....period. The right material may be OK, but with the bad experiences we've had it's just not worth the risk.