Gear Pattern Question

[shapps13]

I'm a newb at this reading a gear pattern stuff. I tried to take a good pic. of it but it doesn't show up well at all. Here goes. I am using used 4:11 spicers in a dana 35 and so far everything is in spec,bearing preload is 12 inlbs, backlash is .008 and the carrier has a slight press into the housing. I am using all new bearings. In the Yukon install instructions I downloaded it says to concentrate on the pattern on the coast side of used gears , so thats what I did and it looks real good,centered on the tooth face to flank and heel to toe. The drive side is not so nice, it is centered on the tooth face to flank, but is really more toward the toe of the ring gear than I think it should be. Should I just quit while I'm ahead and run it or should I try for a more uniform pattern between drive and coast side ? I know its difficult to say without seeing it but I just had to ask the experts here on .
Thanks,
Bill

 

[Beezil]

without seeing it.......

always concentrate on getting a good pattern from topland to root.

you want a hotdog shape or a "tennessee" shape centered.

don't worry so much about centering the pattern from heel to toe.

the only time I'd worry about what my pattern looked like from heel to toe is if it favored the heel too much.

if your camera has a zoom, try backing up a bit and zooming up. you'll increase the focal length, but we'll still be able to see the pattern

try again to post a pic.

 

[Neil]

Don't be so concerned with the heel toe pattern. Just get it centered from top to bottom of the tooth. Unless it is really riding the toe I would not worry about it.

 

[CRASH]

without seeing it.......

always concentrate on getting a good pattern from topland to root.

you want a hotdog shape or a "tennessee" shape centered.

don't worry so much about centering the pattern from heel to toe.

the only time I'd worry about what my pattern looked like from heel to toe is if it favored the heel too much.

if your camera has a zoom, try backing up a bit and zooming up. you'll increase the focal length, but we'll still be able to see the pattern

try again to post a pic.

Agree with Beez. Also, the "hot dog" pattern will never really be centered from top to root. It will always be biased a bit towards the topland. Get a nice shape, and you are in business.

Pre-load that diff as much as you can without a case spreader. It will save the R&P in the long run because that axle flexes like a wet noodle when pushed hard.

CRASH

 

[ChuckD]

Here's some pics of my URF approved pattern,

http://home.comcast.net/~cdutke/gearpattern/

 

[Neil]

"Here's some pics of my URF approved pattern,"

Show off...

 

[ChuckD]

"Here's some pics of my URF approved pattern,"

Show off...

Ok, it was also Neil approved to. :moon:

 

[Beezil]

also, in order to accentuate your pattern, don't spin the yoke so it turs the ring gear.

spin the ringgear AGAINST the pinion.

try it, you'll see.

 

[NN4S]

In the Yukon install instructions I downloaded it says to concentrate on the pattern on the coast side of used gears , so thats what I did and it looks real good,centered on the tooth face to flank and heel to toe. The drive side is not so nice, it is centered on the tooth face to flank, but is really more toward the toe of the ring gear than I think it should be. Should I just quit while I'm ahead and run it or should I try for a more uniform pattern between drive and coast side?

I'm getting ready to do this on my 8.25 and have been reading the install manual to prepare for it; it says to go with the pattern centered face to flank & not to worry about the heel to toe placement if you've got everything else right. Go back & look at the acceptable pattern diagrams; you'll probably have something pretty close to (or in between) them. Have fun, I know I will!

 

[Rawbrown]

here are some pics of a dana 30 I did on saturday.

http://www.rawbrown.com/tech.htm

if you are unsure how to read your pattern then you can email a pic to me anytime to
[email protected]
I can help you get it right.
I do quite a few gearsets each month.

when setting up your 8.25, youll need to make a spanner tool. or better yet, make two of them. it makes for setting the backlash a real breeze.

 

[Beezil]

nice FAT pattern.

:clap:

 

[NN4S]

When setting up your 8.25, youll need to make a spanner tool. or better yet, make two of them. it makes for setting the backlash a real breeze.

I've only got one; guess I'll have to go back & forth with it to do the job. One question: will I be able to do the adjustment without pulling the axle seals? It doesn't look like it's going to be possible. I went ahead & got new seals just in case; I figure I'll need 'em sooner or later!

 

[Rawbrown]

yes, the bar will rest on the bearing. I do it all the time and never have a problem. I got tired really quick of going back and forth so I made a second tool. now I can stay underneath the rear and adjust one side then the other. the real problem isnt adjusting the BL. its holding the carrier in while you hold the spanner in while you try and line up the bearing cap in the right spot.
once you get the BL set and the pattern is good, you need to pre-load the carrier bearings. tighten each side in steps to 70lbft i think it is.
someone got there FSM in front of them? I am in for the night...

I've only got one; guess I'll have to go back & forth with it to do the job. One question: will I be able to do the adjustment without pulling the axle seals? It doesn't look like it's going to be possible. I went ahead & got new seals just in case; I figure I'll need 'em sooner or later!

 

[shapps13]

I am wondering what type of marking compound is being used in the pics that are posted. I think what I have is just some white lithium grease in a little cup that came with my bearing kit. I tried to change the color with some food coloring and it seems to have worked, but the stuff you guys are using looks like the cats nuts.
Bill

 

[NN4S]

I've got the manual at the house, so getting the numbers won't be a problem. It just seemed a bit vague when it came to the seals. I've read other stuff (mainly articles from Mopar rags) that give tips on axle removal w/o damaging the seals & substitutions for the adjuster tool (the torsion bar from an older C-body is supposed to work) are a couple of them. Maybe I should go ahead & troll the junkyard for one of those torsion bars & see how it works...

 

[Rawbrown]

the stuff that came with the bearings is the same thing its just white. I have yellow and blue also...

as for the tool you just make it.
all you need is to make a "T" wrench that can slide into the tube far enough then go to pepboys and find a nut with 26mm wrench flats. weld it to the end. easy...