Gear Opinions Solicited

If you were running P285/75R16 tires and you had a Supercharger onboard, would you go with 4.11s or 4.56s?

If I do the math, it would take 4.27s to get back to stock.

4.11s are stronger and the blower will scoot it down the hiway with no issues. 4.56s will slow me down but help in the rocks. Given my health situation, I most likely will be spending the overwhelming majority of my time on the streets. On the other hand, I am scheduled to go to Moab last week of October so I sort of need to make a decision.

All input cheerfully accepted.
 
I am tending that way for both the mileage and strength of the gear set. Wish I could just put in an 8.8 but... Being on Social Security sort of limits what you do and how fast it gets done.
 
you can actually get a factory 8.8 with discs, limitied slip and 4.11's for probably less then the gears, install kit and labor to put them in
 
4.88's. do it.
 
4.88's. do it.
This. 4.88s and 33's is awesome, that's what I'm running now. At 65 I'm around 2700 RPM and 70ish I'm right at 3000 RPM. I would love some forced induction for more power. The gears gave me the torque to crawl but still, more horsepower would be nice.
 
for a mostly dd 4.88's on 33's is going to get horrible mileage and cost him a fortune in gas to get to and from work. what alot of people seem to forget is they have a low gear in their transfer cases just for the crawling purposes and if that's not low enough then get a set of 4 to 1's for crawling and keep your gears higher so you don't dump all your cash filling it up every week. it'll come out cheaper in the end
 
Thanks for the input, I think I will go with the 4.11s. For a DD anything shorter that 4:56s are sort of BS if you think about it. Going to work is not an issue as I'm retired. But even grocery getting has to be affordable. I has thought I would be in a position to do the gearing in September, now it looks like October may be the soonest. I am currently in the process of fine tuning the Supercharger. As shipped, it works a charm, but the tune is a "generic" for the 4.0 and each vehicle has it's own quirks. Also, I am in process of using the Perfect Power piggyback to adjust my speedometer and odometer. If you have the piggyback already, it is silly to spend $125.00 for a speedo drive gear and only be in the neighbourhood of accurate. I should be able to dial it in to a gnats behind.

I also think I need to start looking for a 241OR. I had one in my 97 and what a difference a 4:1 Low Range makes. Spendy, but then it is a 3/4 Ton TC.

On another front, I will be looking to makes this an E85 capable beasty as well. Best thing about being retired is that you have the time to play. Worst thing is a lack of cash flow. Oh well...

And yes, I look at the Colorado Chapter For Sale area everyday looking for an 8.8. One is there now, but it has 4:88s in it. Too short for me. I guess I should post a WTB on one.
 
check your pick and pull yards, you can generally get the entire axle for $125 to $200. look for a mid to late 90's ford explorer. in most cases if they have disc brakes they'll have 3.73 gears but i have seen a few with disc and 4.11 also almost every 8.8 seems to have the factory limited slip in it. it's not great but it is usable and better for a dd then a locker then the only other thing you'd need is a pr of 1.25" spacers(ebay $89+ shipping...sometimes less) to get closer to the correct width.
 
There are three rear ends here locally (Harris) that have the 4.10s in them but the yard wants $475 for them and then I'd have to pay someone to mod them to fit. Less expensive to just stay with the Chryco axle.

For the record, Social Security Sucks...
 
HOLY hell that's unreal. At my yard any rear = $60 without brakes. My bro scored a dana 44 years ago, let it sit in the rain at our house for about a day, then sold it locally on a forum for $400 the next day.
 
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