gear change and "locker"

Well just as an update, after multiple wheeling trips and a good 3000miles of pavement pounding the axle has yet to give out on me.
 
DutchVDub said:
Well just as an update, after multiple wheeling trips and a good 3000miles of pavement pounding the axle has yet to give out on me.

:yelclap:
 
now im lookin at the possibility of lockers....or just locking the rear in general on my next XJ...think its gonna end up being this 90 im lookin at....

as a DD do you think welding the rear in such a way is a bad idea....
and if so would you also say that a controllable locker like the ELocker is something more practicle (yet ridiculously pricey)

simply put...
ill be wanting to lock at least the rear soon on teh next DD XJ....and will be doing so on a budget...what is ok to do and/or reasonable for CO
 
Well, a '90 is gonna have the dana turdy-five and you don't wanna lock that - and certainly not welded.

So, keep an eye out for someone parting an '87/'88 with the tow package or the XJ Wagoneer - they tend to have the D44 under 'em. Then do a "lunch box" locker like the Aussie Locker, Detroit EZ or the Richmond/Powertrax. Lunch box lockers are noisy, but they work very well and give you some free-wheel ability where a spool or welded "lincoln" locked carrier would not.

The Chrysler 8.25 is a reliable choice in the later 29 spline version, but the drawback is the large differential housing - hangs on rocks bad, particularly when running a 33" or smaller tire.

The Ford 8.8 is a great choice, but there is some cutting/welding that has to be done to make it work and it's about an inch narrower (not a huge deal).

Personally, for a DD I would recommend you try to find a '91 or newer to get the better H.O. engine and '93 to '96 got the improved unibody. '95 - '01 were OBDII systems and much easier to work on.

Wheew! I just had a Skully moment..... :yap:

:D
 
well luckily the 90 has the newer motor swapped into it :) so there is a noticable bit more power and low miles for the 90 body too :)

i dont think this truck is gonna see more than 33's ever... this will stay the DD but i want it to be capable....
after having the 2.5 and open diffs im really wanting at least the rear locked up

the goal is to get a "naked" jeep and just build that over time...i just wanna have fun with this one til then...thats why i wasnt TOO worried about the 35 under there...but are they really THAT BAD?

hmm ok so i guess ill have some more saving/shopping to do
 
Wheew! I just had a Skully moment..... :yap:

:D


.........I can research but this isn't the first time....:gag: :cheers:

the D35 should be a front axle............... you can break the things on the street driving normal................
 
the D35 should be a front axle............... you can break the things on the street driving normal................

oh wow so they ARE that bad...wow...ok then....lol.....
so my next question would be....
how mechanically inclined do you have to be or special tools you need to swap a rear end?
 
oh wow so they ARE that bad...wow...ok then....lol.....



I would say that we made the 35 sound horrible and it is not the best axle as for serious wheeling and larger tires 31's & up, as it is a grenade waiting to happen. Especially if you put in lower gears and a locker. ........and breaking them on the street is a true story, buddy had a YJ 4 banger & a lunchbox locker in his and he went around a corner exiting a gas station and it exploded....

.......on a side note I know many a people who run them with 33's and no locker and careful with how they drive and still have them on after many moons of wheeling.

so my next question would be....
how mechanically inclined do you have to be or special tools you need to swap a rear end?
Depends on what you get a donor axle from, if you get say a 96+ 8.25 with 29 spline or Dana44 out of an XJ they are bolt up just need to make sure your gears match front and rear. Many people around here able to help you with that.................

If you get something not off of an XJ just make sure the bolt pattern & width matches. All it is, is simple fabbing work to re-mount the spring perches and shock mounts............again many people around here can help you with that too :cheers:
 
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Depends on what you get a donor axle from, if you get say a 96+ 8.25 with 29 spline or Dana44 out of an XJ they are bolt up just need to make sure your gears match front and rear. Many people around here able to help you with that.................

If you get something not off of an XJ just make sure the bolt pattern & width matches. All it is, is simple fabbing work to re-mount the spring perches and shock mounts............again many people around here can help you with that too :cheers:

thanks...i appreciate all the info...
once ive got my money ready to spend ill be sure to ask you more knowledgable guys where to blow it lol......
thanks again
 
I wouldn't trust that weld job too much- did a similar setup on an 8.25 back in Nam, it broke going up Potato Salad Hill in Moab. And yes, I know how to weld. :) Ended up going to a shop in Moab to ghetto rig it for the ride back home to Ft Fun, the crosspin and spiders were shattered with none available so all I had left to weld was side gears to case. It made it back home and no more, was trying to lock up the axle as I pulled in the driveway.
 
Well just to make it clear, the 8.25 I have with welded spiders in my almost daily rig is the 27-spline version. I have 29-spline shafts and spiders as spares. I have wheeled the piss out of it and driven a shite load of street miles on it (including lots of tail slides in the rain) and have yet to destroy the thing.

The only issue you'll really have with a DD welded rear is all the chirping in parking lots. I actually tend to make the sharpest turns possible just so I can see peoples' faces when the tires chirp.
 
I have an '88 with the d35, welded as he welded his. I've wheeled it pretty hard, with 33 super swampers, and didn't break it, I am sure it would have failed at some point, it is my parts rig. The thing is, be prepared, and have fun. I have several friends that run similarly welded spiders in the 44 and 60, and seem to have no issues. It allows for shaft removal and insertion. Remember kids, I said shaft removal and insertion. I actually wrote all that to say, shaft removal and insertion, simple minds are fun:moon:
 
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