Full width or narrowed?

[Jump This]

I know some of you have gone both ways nono and some of
us have wheeled with the wide loads out there.

The buggifing will begin soon and all along I was thinking I was going
to build using narrowed 60's. But....is it really the way to go?

I wheel all over the place but to be sure, the build is intended to work well
out at the Hammers.

What have you all found?

 

[Jump This]

And like most people out here right now, I need to maintain a reasonable budget.....

 

[Jes]

Are you serious?!?

 

[themud]

I did full width and still spent around 1700 and didnt even do alloy shafts front or rear... I agree with jes you can do one or the other but not both... go with 60 leave em full width go eight lug and you can play with the width using the wheels... you can use h2s to suck it in or use hummer double beads to push it out... Plus spare stock shafts are easy to find as just about anything other than stock with a 60 if gonna be tough to find...

themud

 

[Jump This]

Wait a moment here.....did you think......did I say.....noooooo.

Either full width or narrowed, not both.

Jeeeeeeezzzzzzzeeee.

:roflmao:


But....how are H2 wheels in the rocks?
There is no way to do it cheap. But I'm not talking about building 609's
or anything like that.
Lets see if I can do this for......lets say, $5000.
Narrowed.

 

[swbooking]

If your worried about the width, we just built a rear D60 for a YJ were working on, and once we put on the H1 wheels, the width comes out to almost exactly the same as it had before with a D35, 3.75" BS x 10" wide steelies, and 35x12.5 tires.

Just a route you could check out...

 

[XJ_ranger]

I regret not narrowing my front axle.

It just makes it a little different.

The amount of times that being wider has been better, has been far outnumbered by the number of times I wish I was narrower.

And my front 44 is 65" WMS - I think a front 60 is like 68" WMS...

Re-splining stock shafts (budget) isnt all that bad - dean at Performance Cryogenics can and will do it.

After making all the brackets to put it in, whats another 4 hours with the grinder and the hammer and the chop saw to narrow the axle?

 

[Goatman]

Last weekend in the desert with Porch Puppy and Farmer Matt, I was having trouble on a couple spots where they made it easier, and we determined it was because I was a couple inches wider than they are. It made a difference in those spots. Our experience is that given the choice, narrower is better.

However, if you're going to go budget, and you want to use as many stock parts as possible, then full width is the way to go. It's less work, too. It would be interesting to see how much you could get with $5000 on a real budget axle build. Definitely could do it going full width, since you don't have to buy any carriers or axles depending on what you do.

 

[vetteboy]

I'm at roughly 81" to the outside of my tires, which is a relatively 'narrow full width'.

It seems like a pretty good compromise for what I do. In over two years of wheeling this axle/wheel/tire setup I haven't wanted to change it either way. I certainly don't think being any wider would be more beneficial, but any narrower and it would involve a TON more work as far as inner fender clearance, link placement, etc.

 

[JeepFreak21]

I thought you had a D44 for the front

I narrowed my D44 front and D60 rear. I've got OEM D70 shafts in the D60 and CTM/Chromos in the front. ARB in the front and 5.13's front and rear. Even after I find a 35 spline ARB for the rear, I'll still be under $5k (though not by much) total... with steering (high steer).

The only extra cost to narrowing it (for me) was the ~$150 I paid Dean to cut down the rear.

Billy

 

[Jump This]

I thought you had a D44 for the front

I narrowed my D44 front and D60 rear. I've got OEM D70 shafts in the D60 and CTM/Chromos in the front. ARB in the front and 5.13's front and rear. Even after I find a 35 spline ARB for the rear, I'll still be under $5k (though not by much) total... with steering (high steer).

The only extra cost to narrowing it (for me) was the ~$150 I paid Dean to cut down the rear.

Billy

I was looking to sell the 44 and go to the 60, but.....
The proposal to the Budgetary Committee was wadded up and filed.
It looks like I'll keep the 44 and cut the 60 to match.


61" WMS to WMS.
The 44 has just about everything already done to it, as well as having extra shafts, all the steering, ARB (the reason I was looking to sell it) and suspension.
So the money will be spent on the rear. Spool, 35 spline work as well as new axles.

Billy, do you have a build thread for your 60?

 

[cal]

That's a shame, 60's are going cheap over on Pirate right now.

 

[Jump This]

That's a shame, 60's are going cheap over on Pirate right now.

Really?

 

[cal]

Really?

Compete (stock) 60's are going around $800.

I saw, but didnt buy, a narrowed (64") hp 60 with the stock shafts shortened and splined for $800 a couple weeks ago.

Still gotta buy a locker, gears, and a rear end that is 8 lug (makes more sense for you than paying to go 5x5.5).

 

[Boostwerks.com]

Food for thought...I've always wanted to build a "mini" 2 seater buggy consisting of a full light gauge tube frame, 4 cylinder ecotec or honda motor and a D30/44 combo.

2500lb mini > 5000lb typical buggy

I honestly think you could build a very capable mini for about half the cost of a full size rig. Kore is supposidly building one of these as we speak.

 

[JeepFreak21]

Billy, do you have a build thread for your 60?

Most of it is here: http://www.bsfab.net/?cat=12
I'm just finishing up the plumbing for the brakes and then I can post the disc swap. Besides that it was just installing gears and welding the perches and shock mounts on.
Billy

 

[Jump This]

Food for thought...I've always wanted to build a "mini" 2 seater buggy consisting of a full light gauge tube frame, 4 cylinder ecotec or honda motor and a D30/44 combo.

2500lb mini > 5000lb typical buggy

I honestly think you could build a very capable mini for about half the cost of a full size rig. Kore is supposidly building one of these as we speak.

Ever hear of a Samurai? (or however you spell that Suzuki mini)
I've seen many out there running 37's. Very capable rigs, but maybe too light.
:dunno:
As far as the costs go, I don't think it would be nearly half price. But it could be cheaper to build than a full size rig.

 

[4xSanta]

I'm at roughly 81" to the outside of my tires, which is a relatively 'narrow full width'.

It seems like a pretty good compromise for what I do. In over two years of wheeling this axle/wheel/tire setup I haven't wanted to change it either way. I certainly don't think being any wider would be more beneficial, but any narrower and it would involve a TON more work as far as inner fender clearance, link placement, etc.

I'm 83" out to out on the front and rear but my axles are all custom length with my 60 I have Mosier 4140 inners and 4340 stubs, ground clearance is about 10 1/4" for both the 14 and the 60, Don't think you can build cheaper than a 14/60 or 60/60 combo......SANTA

 

[squirrel80]

FULL WIDTH! Go Big or Go Home. Come on Rick do you really need the answer to this. The way you break parts you will not want custom length axles. I'm at 65" WMS and 77" to outside of tire and 2"-3" more wouldn't hurt. At least thats what she said. Ken is running offset wheels if you want even more or you could go the other way with backspace.

 

[Jes]

I agree with jes you can do one or the other but not both... themud

Don't put words in my mouth.
I was just commenting that I think Rick is a retard.