Pharaoh XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cairo, EGYPT
Gojeep why didnt you set the Taurus fan to run on low speed all the time and switch to high with the AC fan ?
Ford Taurus Fan Swap?
- Thread starter rockclimbingpyro
- Start date
BlackJax
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- FL, CO, and NC
All I know is the mark viii will blow a valve cover across my garage floor. The taurus is no where near doing that. Also, the mark viii fan makes 100X the noise the taurus fan does. lol 
What year Taurus are you comparing it too? They vary a lot according to the year and what engine also the Taurus had.BlackJax said:All I know is the mark viii will blow a valve cover across my garage floor. The taurus is no where near doing that. Also, the mark viii fan makes 100X the noise the taurus fan does. lol
Because why would a wear the fan out in a hurry by doing that as well as the extra drag on the alternator for supplying the extra current needed as well? You would negate every advantage almost the a electric fan has by running it all the time. There is absolutely no need for a fan during warm up and also as soon as you are driving faster then 30 mph. I have gone 4 months without even a fan turning on during the cold months and not running in heavy traffic.karim_gabra said:
Cheers
MGrobe
NAXJA Member #968
- Location
- Chicagoland-area, IL
My fan does run at highway speed, as needed. With all of the crap in front of my radiator it doesn't have the nice and clean air flow path that your Jeep has Marcus. So my fan's will engage as needed to keep my engine at operating temperature. Of course it is completely transparent to me with my temperature controller.
Tugboat369
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wilmington DE
In 90 plus weather is stayed cool wether it was in traffick or on the trail.
The way I have it hooked up is that the new fan is turned on with my fuel pump relay. The fuel pump relay trigers the new fan relay. I also put a cut off switch on the dash to turn it off in deep water and or mud.
But the AC fan is still hooked up the way it was from the factory. That way If the first one fails the AC fan will cut on to keep the Jeep cool.
The way I have it hooked up is that the new fan is turned on with my fuel pump relay. The fuel pump relay trigers the new fan relay. I also put a cut off switch on the dash to turn it off in deep water and or mud.
But the AC fan is still hooked up the way it was from the factory. That way If the first one fails the AC fan will cut on to keep the Jeep cool.
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rockclimbingpyro
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Jackson, MS
Go Jeep's write up was awesome. i really like the idea of the auto cooler in conjunction with the fan and the fan being in vert, rather than horz. I definitely plan on doing this mod as soon as i get the time (and some tools to cut the stock belt fan). my only real question about the install is the replacement belt... every diagram i've seen is different than my stock setup
it seems that my idler pulley is different, i would think that the Mercedes belt that was recommended by go-jeep would work but i'm not positive (mine does indeed turn clockwise).
it seems that my idler pulley is different, i would think that the Mercedes belt that was recommended by go-jeep would work but i'm not positive (mine does indeed turn clockwise).
scottsxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- richmond va
yeah the taurus fan is HUGE, and very difficult to fit in, and as we can see only a few have done it successfully. I tried it as well, but i ended up getting a fan out of a 2000 neon, its very thin and easy to fit in, and hopfully will do what i need it to. (man that shit rhymed) Ill know soon enough when i get my jeep all back together from the enigne swap how it does, and ill let yall know.
88-xj-laredo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Hampshire
Tugboat369
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wilmington DE
In this picture you can see how I moved the new rad forward. I cut a slot in the old hole and welded a fender washer for the new bottom mount. This was maimley because I put in a oversize rad.
After removing the stock manul fan I ground down the studs even with the nuts to give more room.
After removing the stock manul fan I ground down the studs even with the nuts to give more room.
discokid
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Francisco
Old thread I know but one thing I just don't get. The stock clutch fan pulls 5400CFM. That kit on angelfire give you 3 fans at 800 CFM each = 2400CFM.
How do those electric fans make it cooler when they pull less air?
Thanks
That's not the kit I used -- I modified a high CFM e-fan to fit in the stock shroud, kept the stock e-fan, and wired them to work in tandem thermostatically or by a switch on the dash.
1) Are you sure you have the correct clutch fan CFM data? Seems kinda' high...
2) I had sealed-off all of the possible 'leaks' so that ALL entering air was being pulled through the radiator.
3) Once engaged, e-fans turn at maximum CFM. I would think you'd have to be revving pretty high to reach equivalent CFM stock.
With this set-up I once climbed a fairly steep half-mile communications tower maintenance trail up a smallish mountain near Casa Grande, AZ in 108* June weather with the a/c on in 4-L. The temperature gauge never climbed above 225* and quickly recovered once I reached the summit and let it idle. I no longer own that '93 SE but it is still going strong with over 300k miles (it had over 200k when I made the climb). Would I do the conversion again? No... I don't think it's really necessary. The '99 SE I drive now got a brand new higher capacity Mishimoto aluminum radiator, stock t-stat & water pump, and ZJ fan-clutch -- she cools like a dream with the a/c on in 100* weather.
KarmaKannon
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Utahhhh
The pulley mounted clutch fan might pull that number, but if it does... It will be likely at higher rpm where it might not even matter. I mean how fast are you turning the engine before you will eventually get moving faster than the speed that the fan can pull air through? I'd suspect sand and mud might be the likely scenarios. All conjecture of course.