Ford Explorer 8.8 Axle Swap - My Setup Data

you can use your existing wheels? i.e., is the bolt pattern the same?
 
Yes. 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. I'm currently looking at doing this (I have an 8.8 with 4.10s and discs sitting in a friend's garage right now, and a flange yoke adapter sitting on my passenger seat in the parking lot at work...) and here is some info I have dug up:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1000520
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html (he talks about doing it in a YJ, but a lot of the info is the same)
http://members.cox.net/rough-riders/tech_page/ford8.8/ford8_8.html (another YJ page, more info!)
http://forums.off-road.com/jeep-short-wheelbase/117239-ford-8-8-spicer-2-2-1379-they-yard.html (info about the flange yoke adapter you will need)
http://www.alljeep.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=537&products_id=167208 (cheapest I can find the dana 2-2-1379 flange yoke adapter new)

My own info:
* You can get a dana 2-2-1379 flange yoke for 1310 U-joints for $10 or so at most junkyards, they are found in Mercury Grand Marquis with a 7.5 or 8.8 rear end. Bring a 12mm 12-point socket, a 3/8 ratchet, an extension bar, a breaker bar, a can of pb-blaster, a mini torch if you can (i.e. smuggle it in. You will need it.) Also useful is a sawzall with a 9" metal cutting blade, unless you want to buy the whole rear driveshaft along with it and pop the u-joint out of the adapter afterwards - I just cut the driveshaft. You'll want a good 2-3ton jack as well if the junkers aren't on blocks at your JY. Jack the sucker up, apply the mini torch to the flange and end of the bolt for a minute or two, use your breaker bar, move to the next bolt. Once the bolts are out chop the driveshaft and whack the flange/ujoint/whatever else with your breaker bar till the flange pops off the differential.
* get the spring pads when you take the 8.8 out of the explorer or whatever, just sawzall the shock mounts off, you won't need them and it is faster than pulling the bolts.
* I've been told you will need a different rear driveshaft since the pinion length is different on the 8.8, I need to measure stuff and figure out what I'm doing about that.

MoparManiac told me about the flange being found on a Grand Marquis - one of the local guys up here has an 8.8 in his rig so he found out. Alternatively you can just use a 1310 to 1330 adapter U-joint and use the flange that you (hopefully) think to get with the 8.8.
 
haha wow. I just realized I linked to this thread in my last post. Had it open in another tab right before all the other 8.8 tabs I have open, so I didn't check first...

As a side note, the flange yoke I got off the Grand Marquis this morning appears to be a 1330 sized one. I'm not sure what's up with that, I'll probably go back tomorrow morning and see if I pulled one from some high end edition with a more powerful engine or something.
 
Thanks for the props guys. Glad to know it's helping others with their swaps. I'm finally getting around to regearing the front end to match, so haven't been offroad since I started this axle swap 2 months ago. Starting to get anxious!
 
Definitely get the yoke and bolts from the JY for the swap. I see them online going for as much as $40. Its $12 for a complete aluminum explorer driveshaft at the pullapart and I think after I removed the yoke end and scraped the aluminum the yoke cost me $3....

Here are a couple of the best links Ive seen on a 8.8
2nd link shows all the axle gearing codes to make things easier when searching for one in the JY.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Explorer8_8.html

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html

And heres the best place ive found to get the bracket kits from

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/simple-spline-p-186.html......



 
Last edited:
Great thread! I'm currently on the market for an XJ... just got rid of my 98 explorer. This will probably one of the first big mods i'll do. Should have ripped out the rear axle, and told them it was a front wheel drive model!

But, you'd kick your self to pass on this opportunity! stronger, disk brakes, and re-gear. 3 birds, one stone. While your at it, might as well toss a locker in, since they seem to have just about anything for this rear end, and cheap! Is there really any downs to this??
 
The only downside is the different axle width (it's narrower WMS to WMS) - other than that I can't really see anything significant. And I needed to get rims with less backspacing anyways.
 
OP, did you install your axle center or off center? I'm in the process now, and was measuring last night. I noticed if I install the axle center, my driveshaft is angled too much to the drivers side. If I move it more to driver, the DS is more center, but the pass side is about flush w/the leaf spring.

Can it be done that way, and with a 1" spacer on the pass side wheel only? I also will be running 4" bs wheels.

Thanks!
 
I centered the axle end to end. Yes, the pinion is offset 1" - 2" toward the passenger side.

If you're gonna offset the axle, you'll probably have issues clearing the passenger side brake assembly in its stock 8.8 location.
 
Caligold:
So i am in the process of preping my axle, i have been reading those posting on centering the axle. I would like some clarification on this; do i center the pumpkin off the front? or just ensure my rear end is pointing at my TC output?
 
I recommend centering the axle side to side as a whole assembly with equal distances from perch to end of axle. If you choose to offset the axle and use a spacer on one side, that decision is yours and you should be willing to deal with fabrication and figuring out how to solve problems you may run into. I'm not claiming it won't work, but to me it's just not an elegant engineering solution.

As for question - "do I center the pumpkin off the front? " I'm not exactly sure what you're asking, but I think you mean pinion angle. This all depends on what kind of driveshaft (DS) you are using. If you're using a stock type standard DS with a single u-joint on each end, you want the pinion to be parallel to the TC output. If you're using a double cardan DS, the pinion should point at the TC output.

Make sure you research and completely understand the difference before welding anything.
 
i am not going to use the 1 spacer idea, dont sound too smart to me haha. i am just cofused on how to center it. can u clear it up a little better for me. i am running stock set up for the DS.
 
Centering the pinion left to right? You don't. Run it as-is after centering the perches as mentioned above. The pinion will be biased 1 to 2 inches to the passenger side, but you shouldn't have any problems running it like this.

Let me suggest that you read more about the 8.8 swap. Judging by your questions, it seems like you may need to familiarize yourself more about this subject. Not trying to be an jerk, but you need to fully understand what you're in for before you start. Here's a good link to a swap on a YJ, but it's very similar to the XJ. There's plenty of other info on the net too.

http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html

Do some reading and if you have questions afterward I would be more than happy to help.
 
I thank you for all the help as i have already read this article. I am very wise on the swap i just didnt fully understand if i fellow your perch measurements that that will automatically center it per say. But thank you very much for the help.
 
My plan is to measure the outside width of the stock perches on my 8.25 when I take it out, then measure from the brake mounting flanges on my 8.8, subtract the two, divide the result by two, then use this as the measurement from the brake flange to the outside edge of the new perch on each side. At this point I'm really only waiting on driveshaft stuff and my new rims before I can start this install.
 
I did this swap in my MJ. I have stock canyon wheels and the clearances were tighter than I wanted with the narrower rear axle, so I added spacers. The added benefit of this is that I am currently running a D30 front but will eventually finish my narrowed HP44 front with 5x5.5 pattern. All I will have to do to the rear is put on 5x4.5 to 5x5.5 spacers instead of the ones currently on there and install new wheels. Makes it simple to match any 5-lug front axle. I love the improved braking.
 
Bringing it back from the dead.

Bought me a 8.8 and looking to install in my XJ. The great write up will sure help and make me sure to have all parts needed before the swap.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
Welding rear axle - Potential damage question
Replies
8
Views
468
Evan03
E
M
Axle swap on 1996 xj
Replies
11
Views
293
FusiliJerry
F
S
Frame work
Replies
1
Views
215
Evan03
E
S
Jeep build finishing touch advice needed.
Replies
3
Views
214
75SV1
7
PopLockLSwap
WJ swap with OTK steering
Replies
7
Views
327
75SV1
7
Back
Top