• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Flop resurrection

Thanks guys, Cracker is explaining it pretty much to the T I think, but I have ridden in Vanimals rig and it does ride super nice!

My goal is to things spot on as far as equal angles an lengths go. I am goin ton use Heims all around with hydro assist, all of which has been on order and are waiting for delivery, just need the DOM tube, which will be 1.5", .25" wall.

Nelson!! I need to get those harnesses from you!! Are you going to goatfest?!

My suggestion is to run heims as you see in the pic above with the inverted T I posted. On the draglink there is one heim and one TRE. Also note that there are cotter pins and safety washers used along with fine thread grade 8 hardware.

I highly recommend a Chevy 1 Ton TRE at the pitman arm cause if its ability to take lots of angle...I have never liked heims single sheer with high misalignment spacers at the pitman arm unless it was a twisted pitman arm like from Genright.

3/4" rod ends are becoming more and more available and out in the desert most of us run them and have spares on the trailer.
 
I like how this set up gets the full length out of the track bar, but I'm not so sure about the single sheer at the axle end. Also, is there no way to mount the tie rod above the knuckle rather than under it? I know it's only an inch, but you know what they say.

I watched this build in person. blaine wanted to get the tie-rod a bit higher, but it is still above the axle centerline.

the tie-rod is mounted where it is in order to have more clearance with the Ram. it could be moved up if you had the ram in a different place.

the shear strength on that 3/4" bolt is more than enough to handle the forces that the panhard will see.

its the same kind of setup that cal and richard are running on the team naxja/pettycash KOH car, and its not the first rig that blaine has set-up like this.
 
My suggestion is to run heims as you see in the pic above with the inverted T I posted. On the draglink there is one heim and one TRE. Also note that there are cotter pins and safety washers used along with fine thread grade 8 hardware.

I highly recommend a Chevy 1 Ton TRE at the pitman arm cause if its ability to take lots of angle...I have never liked heims single sheer with high misalignment spacers at the pitman arm unless it was a twisted pitman arm like from Genright.

3/4" rod ends are becoming more and more available and out in the desert most of us run them and have spares on the trailer.

I like your set up with the TRE at the pitman, I think I will copy this and have a spare heim.

And just for reference, what thread TRE are you running? Just want to e sure I know some one with a spare if we ever wheel.
 
I like your set up with the TRE at the pitman, I think I will copy this and have a spare heim.

And just for reference, what thread TRE are you running? Just want to e sure I know some one with a spare if we ever wheel.

GM part number 2027 works
 
I watched this build in person. blaine wanted to get the tie-rod a bit higher, but it is still above the axle centerline.

the tie-rod is mounted where it is in order to have more clearance with the Ram. it could be moved up if you had the ram in a different place.

the shear strength on that 3/4" bolt is more than enough to handle the forces that the panhard will see.

its the same kind of setup that cal and richard are running on the team naxja/pettycash KOH car, and its not the first rig that blaine has set-up like this.

I think it's cool if it works, but it seems like there is a lot of stress on that bolt. I like the position of it, and I you could grab some more pics I would appreciate it. There has got to be a way to double sheer that bolt!
 
I like your set up with the TRE at the pitman, I think I will copy this and have a spare heim.

And just for reference, what thread TRE are you running? Just want to e sure I know some one with a spare if we ever wheel.

On there, you see 2 RH 3/4 (3/4 bore) rod ends and one LH 3/4 (3/4) bore rod end.

The TRE is a ES2027L with a 7/8" x 18 thread. There are plenty of bungs made for this ap.

Dont forget your safety washers which allow for a tad more misalignment with a 3/4" bolt.

(example: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Safety-Washers_c_111.html )

Also, I used a step down washer where the drag link meets the tie rod. I used one like this and ran a 5/8" bolt and affixed it with two tabs. It limits the misalignment a little so it doesn't rock as far back and forth as you turn directions. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Step-Down-Spacer-34-to-58-with-116-shoulder_p_1331.html
 
On there, you see 2 RH 3/4 (3/4 bore) rod ends and one LH 3/4 (3/4) bore rod end.

The TRE is a ES2027L with a 7/8" x 18 thread. There are plenty of bungs made for this ap.

Dont forget your safety washers which allow for a tad more misalignment with a 3/4" bolt.

(example: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Safety-Washers_c_111.html )

Also, I used a step down washer where the drag link meets the tie rod. I used one like this and ran a 5/8" bolt and affixed it with two tabs. It limits the misalignment a little so it doesn't rock as far back and forth as you turn directions. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Step-Down-Spacer-34-to-58-with-116-shoulder_p_1331.html

This issue at the drag link to tie rod has been a concern of mine. Couldn't really find any definite information until now. Thank you
 
I think it's cool if it works, but it seems like there is a lot of stress on that bolt. I like the position of it, and I you could grab some more pics I would appreciate it. There has got to be a way to double sheer that bolt!

dude. its completely unnecessary. that bolt is plenty strong. the torque spec on it is 357ftlbs. properly torqued, that bolt is rated for over 30,000 lbs.

take a look at some of the campbell racing moon buggies. they run single shear on both ends
 
This issue at the drag link to tie rod has been a concern of mine. Couldn't really find any definite information until now. Thank you

If you are working in the area you are welcome to come by and drive it and see what you think before you commit.
 
wish my jeep was still tight enough to notice a tiny dead spot. :(
Garrett, your jeep is going to be offroad-only for the most part, highly doubt you'll notice much of a dead spot since you'll probably never be on the highway. plus you're so low that the drag link wont be at much of an angle, which will help.
but a baby dies in Uganda everytime someone builds an inverted t setup. Hope you like that on your conscience, Kony.
 
wish my jeep was still tight enough to notice a tiny dead spot. :(
Garrett, your jeep is going to be offroad-only for the most part, highly doubt you'll notice much of a dead spot since you'll probably never be on the highway. plus you're so low that the drag link wont be at much of an angle, which will help.
but a baby dies in Uganda everytime someone builds an inverted t setup. Hope you like that on your conscience, Kony.

3365DE8C-30F9-41CA-9ECA-ED24A1E0F167-2586-0000025AFF252994.jpg


What ever!!

:roflmao:
 
I'm back at it so here are some updates.

I moved to a new house a few months ago and it just sat in the garage for couple of them.

EC7A2D4F-5318-4225-B0F8-54AF8D5BDA61-13077-000008661ADFE3BD.jpg


Then a couple weeks ago, after riding passenger with Vanimal, I got some motivation back to get started again....


http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums...24-8FE4-4A8D87BBC096-603-0000005FEF3A60D7.mp4

So I threw her back on jack stands and went to work, getting the mid and rear frame stiffeners fabricated an welded In, as well as getting the gas tank removed and floor cut out to raise the tank.

153BB6B0-469E-4ABD-9B6D-7FDA4D9919E6-1573-000000A334521DCF.jpg

65B4DB5A-BA20-4000-B129-9CC50D4CC17C-487-00000020B9F5361A.jpg

AA2CC3E5-0DAE-4037-9488-BA113B7A598E-487-00000020AAC025D0.jpg

2F0BDF0F-EC1C-4292-93F2-741C1F5C60C7-487-000000211AE0FE09.jpg

63F8ED22-3CAD-421D-B520-F3ACBA5D6E76-3200-000002308F6F4E72.jpg

F329B357-76ED-4956-BE50-187CC48DD1AB-3200-000002309D702FD1.jpg

5F53F7DB-B98F-4D4F-87E4-F5F79DD21D6E-3200-00000230A45E57A1.jpg
 
I purchased a Rogue fabrication bender not too long ago, and will be welding it up and starting the tube work hopefully this weekend.

B4A84241-ECDF-4F2F-9859-588911D94083-487-00000020F56E563F.jpg

BA93D9C8-96F2-4848-99D3-D452427B0784-487-000000209056595E.jpg


I have never built a cage, much less a fully exposed cage. I have a pretty good idea of What i want it to look like, it's just a matter of functionality and safety. I understand I have to triangulate everything, so hopefully it comes out clean....
 
you dont have to go crazy with triangulation

Deepwoods_7.JPG


559194_10151994762520372_602582981_n.jpg


both rigs have had several hard rolls with issues
 
It a little bit more tube bent up yesterday. Went a little crazy with the orange flag tape... Was looking to get an idea of how much more pipe I will be installing.

C2FBBCB5-D09D-4C25-8452-9DDED3F02504-3826-0000038F0F17E91E.jpg

7422EAD3-522A-41D7-9028-36EBBD17443A-3826-0000038F24220CE8.jpg

881D08A7-3BFB-4606-B52F-96E4A47E43B2-3826-0000038EE69D317A.jpg


Patience really seems to be key here. I am slowly figuring out this bender, but damn is it tough to get everything symmetrical...

I also need to pick up a notcher. I had enough beer last night to come up with this, but it's only good for straight notches..

EACAB497-ABE0-4A02-AFC9-192BAC5386F1-3826-00000394B1A5FD2B.jpg

B4D11378-52E5-4636-BC5B-6BE4C1AA47E4-3826-00000394C1715205.jpg


I just drilled two holes in a 4x4 block, the same size a my pipe. This fits perfect under my drill press, and does the job.
 
Who cares if it's a hack method if it achieves a close fit?
 
Back
Top