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finaly got an XJ 99 limited with some stuff

good luck with it depends on who you get..i have dealt with a few out west and they were great guys. shot in the dark weren't you selling a clayton 3 link used a while back?
 
Ya i traded parts for it for some reason. I just buy shit and figure out if I can use it later, did that with some 37s on H2 rims that were a bad choice.
 
Finally some front axle work.

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A950EB73-0965-4FF2-A51E-206F206170DB_zpssufwad3x.jpg
 
Oh those are 5xsomething, they are currie modified F-450 unit bearings I'm using for the true bar pucks since the bore is 1.5in, bar is 1.25 sleeved with 1.5 DOM pipe. Not perfect but easier than making some custom pucks.

I'll be running the Spidertrax ultimate unit bearings in 8x6.5 in the end, my driver side wil be here tueaday. Probably taking a half day Monday or Tuesday to get the Cs welded on and a bracket kit figured out.
 
That is an old case from the machine shop I made pucks to fit in for the true bar set up, to put those pucks into the HP housing was a pain in the ass so I just left them in the LP. Pluss with no pinion in I can reach inside and move the bar by hand to check that it's still straight.

The unit bearings and 3rd housing in the last pic are just for the true bar and set up, I'll get some detailed pics this week if I remember.

Right now I'm cutting all kinds a shit off the XJ for rock rails and opening up the rear fender wells.
 
Got pretty boozed up the other night and went to town with the plasma cutter, this is the pass side all cut out the other night. Harbor freight fire/welding blankets really saved the tires and would suggest grabbing one to anyone working on their jeep.

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Cut off the front leaf mounts since I'm beyond the point of no return with the 4 link, and the driver one is mostly rotted off anyway. Will get more grinder and flap disc before the rails are welded in.

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Half day at work today which resulted in some major front axle progress. Cs set an tac welded in along with a bracket idea I think will work.

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Driver side is a little tight so I'll have to cut some of the housing away to get the spring perch in there as well as modify the inner mount tab since it's mostly flat there. Comes out to OEM lower control arm positions and the uppers will be as well. I originally thought I was going to have to widen it up a little.

9BE3ADFD-6F83-43C3-BF03-89D28B48EA61_zpsuzerq0gl.jpg
 
Why can't you weld the inner control arm tab to the housing? And why can't you just put the spring perch on the housing a bit?

I never said I wasn't, that is my plan i just didn't start cutting the tabs yet, want everything planned out so I'm not buying stuff I don't need. The spring perches are from another vehicle anyway. Im making it up as I go along pretty much.
 
I never said I wasn't, that is my plan i just didn't start cutting the tabs yet, want everything planned out so I'm not buying stuff I don't need. The spring perches are from another vehicle anyway. Im making it up as I go along pretty much.

Driver side is a little tight so I'll have to cut some of the housing away to get the spring perch in there as well as modify the inner mount tab since it's mostly flat there.

Just seemed to me like you were going to cut some of the housing away...

Didn't want to see you weaken a sweet expensive axle.

Carry on.
 
Oh haha I thought you meant the lower link bracket. Ya I'm hacking a chunk out of the center section to get the spring where it meeds to be.
 
Why I have to cut into the housing. I need the coil bucket resting on top of the tubing, if not I'll end up with a 2/3in taller spring pad and more lift with less spring.

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That's tomorrow project.
 
The housing is shaped like that for a reason, but by all means.

(make sure you weld the bottom of the perch securely to the top of the axle tube and I think you should probably be OK. Still kinda silly, especially worrying about less than an inch difference in lift. Just make em equal and get slightly shorter springs.)
 
move the coil pads out, what the wms on the axle gonna be?
 
Lower coil pads have to match the upper mount in the unibody side, or they'll be bent. Spring pad center to center is 36.3xxin so They'll have to be that far apart, lower control arm mounts will be separate from the spring pad mount so I won't have to use the weld on pad.

Meh I'll figure it out tomorrow.
 
Lower coil pads have to match the upper mount in the unibody side, or they'll be bent. Spring pad center to center is 36.3xxin so They'll have to be that far apart, lower control arm mounts will be separate from the spring pad mount so I won't have to use the weld on pad.

Meh I'll figure it out tomorrow.

I got my lower pads out 1.5" on each side with zero issues, coils look fine and it hits the bumpstop dead center
 
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