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Factory fog lights

JEEPZZ said:
Here's a pic of the bent relay pin on a TJ but the 97+ XJ will be the same.

fog_relay_bend.jpg

My 01 fuse panel looks different than this one. I have 2 relays for the fog lights so do I bend the prong over on both of them?

See when I got my jeep a month ago the passenger fog doesn't work so I thought it was the bulb. Well it has been so fricken cold I haven't been able to mess with it. Today it is up to -4 (finally out of the double digits) with the wind chill so I went out to replace the bulb and bend that relay prong over. Well after putting in a new bulb, it wouldn't light up so I took it back out and checked for power going to that single wire. I didn't get any reading from it so I am thinking the relay is bad?? Any other suggestions?? Does anyone know how I can check to see if the relay is bad? Also which relay is for which foglight since there are 2 for the foglights.

Thanks for any help.
 
klennop said:
My 01 fuse panel looks different than this one. I have 2 relays for the fog lights so do I bend the prong over on both of them?

See when I got my jeep a month ago the passenger fog doesn't work so I thought it was the bulb. Well it has been so fricken cold I haven't been able to mess with it. Today it is up to -4 (finally out of the double digits) with the wind chill so I went out to replace the bulb and bend that relay prong over. Well after putting in a new bulb, it wouldn't light up so I took it back out and checked for power going to that single wire. I didn't get any reading from it so I am thinking the relay is bad?? Any other suggestions?? Does anyone know how I can check to see if the relay is bad? Also which relay is for which foglight since there are 2 for the foglights.

Thanks for any help.
If both of your lights are out it may be fuse #7 in the fuse box (inside).
To make the fog lights stay on with the brights you need to replace the #1 relay with a jumper from one terminal to the other. I don't know which side is which on the factory relays, but it is labeled B6 & B9 in my FSM


EDIT: Reread. There is a splice for the fog light wiring behind the left headlight if one is working, and the other is not your going to have to trace the wiring back to at least that point. If you used the ground in the fog light plug I would put your meter directly on the - battery terminal to eliminate it to having a bad ground.
 
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scoobyxj said:
If both of your lights are out it may be fuse #7 in the fuse box (inside).
To make the fog lights stay on with the brights you need to replace the #1 relay with a jumper from one terminal to the other. I don't know which side is which on the factory relays, but it is labeled B6 & B9 in my FSM


EDIT: Reread. There is a splice for the fog light wiring behind the left headlight if one is working, and the other is not your going to have to trace the wiring back to at least that point. If you used the ground in the fog light plug I would put your meter directly on the - battery terminal to eliminate it to having a bad ground.

Both lights aren't out it is just my passenger fog light. I have to wait until it is warmer out to test it further. Maybe I will switch around the relays to see if that would rule out a bad relay. It may also be a bad ground because the light did look pretty rusty however I was putting my meter ground right on the frame. Where is the ground in the foglight?
 
For '00 & '01 lights at least:

Fog Light Relay #1 (which is used more as an electronic switch than a classic relay) uses the high beam power as an indicator to break the circuit which is used as the indicator (or hot wire) going to the fog light switch. I.E. High-beams come on, and no more +12V going to the switch.

Fog Light relay #2 is used as a classic relay (i.e. when the indicator has power, then the fog light power circuit to the battery is complete).

If you are looking to allow your fog lights to work when the high beams are on, you bend (or jump) the Fog Light Relay #1 terminal.
 
TheNerd said:
For '00 & '01 lights at least:

Fog Light Relay #1 (which is used more as an electronic switch than a classic relay) uses the high beam power as an indicator to break the circuit which is used as the indicator (or hot wire) going to the fog light switch. I.E. High-beams come on, and no more +12V going to the switch.

Fog Light relay #2 is used as a classic relay (i.e. when the indicator has power, then the fog light power circuit to the battery is complete).

If you are looking to allow your fog lights to work when the high beams are on, you bend (or jump) the Fog Light Relay #1 terminal.

Thanks a lot "the nerd" for telling me what relay to bend.

So if one of the relays is bad then neither foglights would go on, correct? If that is the case then I will have to track my one fog light out issue into the wiring.
 
TheNerd said:
For '00 & '01 lights at least:

Fog Light Relay #1 (which is used more as an electronic switch than a classic relay) uses the high beam power as an indicator to break the circuit which is used as the indicator (or hot wire) going to the fog light switch. I.E. High-beams come on, and no more +12V going to the switch.

Fog Light relay #2 is used as a classic relay (i.e. when the indicator has power, then the fog light power circuit to the battery is complete).

If you are looking to allow your fog lights to work when the high beams are on, you bend (or jump) the Fog Light Relay #1 terminal.

To add onto thenerd's post:
It all makes sense how it works if you read the relay basics on this site (http://viewsfrommylens.com/Jeep/tech_relaybasics.html).

(Fogs disconnect when high beams turned on): It explains that a single throw double throw relay can disconnect power from one light and switch it on to another when a switch is turned on. So it would disconnect the power to the fogs when the high beams are turned on. When the high beams are turned off, the power would restore to the fogs. Helps put a picture to the words from the nerd.
 
My first post. I've been a NAXJA member and forum lurker for almost 2 years now though. Before continuing, I just wanted to say thanks to everyone on this forum - it's been a fantastic resource.

I'm long-winded and I know it. So my apologies in advance. I like to be meticulous and detailed so I don't generate more confusion and questions instead of clarifying an issue.

Ok, to business...

Have a 2000 Limited. Just bought a 97 Sport. The Limited, of course, came with factory fogs, so nothing to do there. But I want to use a factory fog switch - and wiring if possible - to control the fogs that the previous owner installed on the 97 Sport. I have already bought the switch and bezel for a 97. So at this point, I just need to figure out the wiring.

The fog light dongle (connector) is already in the dash wiring harness in the 97 Sport. It is identical to the wiring harness in the 00 Limited. I was hoping it would be as easy as plugging in the switch, but no such luck. The wiring harnesses in each vehicle performs almost identically, with one small (yet show-stopping) difference.

In the 00 Limited, the wire harness works like this:
  • Black: Ground
  • Purple: Input, indicates the state of the high beams
    • 0V when lights are off
    • +12V when running or low beams are on and high beams are off
    • Back to 0V when high beams are on
  • Blue: Output, controls power to the fog lights
    • 0V when running lights/low beams are off and/or fog light switch is turned off
    • +12V when running lights or low beams are on and fog light switch is on
    • 0V when high beams are on, regardless of fog light switch turned on or off
  • Orange: Input, indicates state of running lights/low beams
    • 0V when running lights/low beams are off
    • +12V when running lights/low beams are on
    • +12V when high beams are on
So, essentially, the orange wire acts as a trigger to show the lights are on, allowing the fog lights to be turned on using the switch. The purple wire acts as a high beam trigger. As long as it has current, the high beams are off, so the fog lights will work. But if you turn the high beams on, it kills the current in the purple wire, and subsequently kills the fog lights. So you must have +12V in both the purple and orange wire to be able to send +12V to the blue wire using the fog light switch.

So here's the problem: in the 97 Sport wiring harness, the purple wire never gets power. So regardless of the state of the high beams, there is never any current flowing in the purple wire. Because of that, the fog light switch "thinks" that the high beams are always on and will never send current to the blue wire.

I took the 2 relays out of the power distribution center (PDC) under the hood on the 00 Limited and put them in the same positions on the 97 Sport. They're labeled differently on their respective PDC covers and owner manuals, but they're both still for fog lights. I tried putting in one, then the other, and then and both; still no current in the purple wire. I also checked all of the fuses in both the PDC and the fuse box in the cabin (behind the passenger kick panel). Both Jeeps have identical configurations, and all fuses are present and working. I did notice that one of the relays in the PDC didn't feel like it was actually plugging into anything. It almost seemed to just drop into position, without any friction resistance. I'm wondering if perhaps there are some connections inside the PDC that are missing so that relay isn't really doing anything.

One very easy solution to this would be to remove the purple wire from the connector, splice a wire onto the orange wire, and reconnect it into the connector. That would send +12V to the switch for the purple wire position, tricking the switch into thinking the high beams were off. As an added benefit (or drawback perhaps), the fog lights would stay on regardless of whether or not the high beams are on.

I'd like to avoid doing that if possible for 2 reasons. First, I'd like to avoid encounters with the fuzz. Second, I plan on using another relay in the future to use my fog light switch to control some lights on the roof whenever the high beams are on. So the same switch wold turn on fog lights when the running lights/low beams are on, and roof lights when the high beams are on. Good for night-time wheeling and for sending a subtle message to those pesky drivers who refuse to dim their high beams. :)

So what am I missing? How do I get that purple wire to behave itself and play nicely with others?

Thanks in advance for your inputs. And again, sorry for the short novel.
 
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First the orange wire is the for the dash lights, and will not work to do what you want. The purple wire is the from the OEM relay #1 in the PDC (the trigger wire for the actual relay). You can either trace it out in the wiring harness in the PDC, or just bypass it. I don't know if the wire is going to be in the PDC, or not. Personally I doubt it. My guess is the wire stops at Connector 100 (big connector, on the left hand side under the dash) that all the wiring goes through. Just about everything that does not continue to the engine compartment, and visa versa stops here.
 
Thanks, Scooby. Based on your response, I have a few other questions for you...

If the purple wire does, in fact, stop at Connector 100, is it possible for me to run a new wire from the back of that connector up to the PDC in order to get juice flowin' in that purple wire?

Do you (or anyone else) have a picture or wiring diagram of Connector 100? There are several terminating blocks under the dash, and I want to make sure I'm using the right one.

Also, would it be possible for me to just find the wire in the steering column (coming from the turn signal lever) that I could use? I imagine that it would work the opposite way of what I need, i.e. it would be at 0V when the high beams are off, and go to +12V when the high beams are on. So I would have to figure out some way to invert it but still trigger on the dash lights. (I think finding the proper path to the PDC via Connector 100 would be better, and probably easier.)

It seems peculiar to me that they would change the wiring on the different models. Usually, the same wiring harness goes into each vehicle regardless of specific model variations. Then the different options are simply not installed or connected. It's a cost savings for manufacturers to only have to produce one type of part (in this case the wiring harnesses) and to speed assembly (so assembly workers don't have to install a different harness for each vehicle coming down the assembly line).

Thanks again for the help. Once I figure all of this out, I'll be posting a comprehensive "how-to" guide. Hopefully it'll help someone else out in the future.
 
Connector 100 is the huge main connector on the left hand side up under the dash. I suppose you could do that but I think it would be easier to just run a whole new wire all the way. I mean your have to run a wire through the firewall anyway. So you might as well just run it the rest of the way to the switch.
Now to make the lights operate like the factory ones you need two relays.
BRB (computer problems)
 
scoobyxj said:
Connector 100 is the huge main connector on the left hand side up under the dash. I suppose you could do that but I think it would be easier to just run a whole new wire all the way. I mean your have to run a wire through the firewall anyway. So you might as well just run it the rest of the way to the switch.
Now to make the lights operate like the factory ones you need two relays.
BRB (computer problems)
Sorry was trying to get Paint to work so I could draw a diagram for you, but couldn't.
Here is a pic of connector 100
DSCF1664.jpg



Now to make the lights operate like the factory ones you need two relays.

First relay needs to be a SPDT relay. Has 85,86, 30, 87, 87a
Second relay can be a standard SPST relay Has 85, 86, 30, 87


.Wire from the high beam lights to the 85 (relay #1) terminal 86 (relay #1) .goes to ground.
.Parking light to fuse 30 (relay #1) 87a (relay #1) to the switch violet wire.
.Lite blue wire from the switch then goes to the 85 (relay #2) 86 (relay#2) .to ground.
.Battery to fuse to 30 (relay #2) 87 to lights.
.You use a 5A fuse on relay #1, and a 10 or 15 amp fuse on relay #2


Do not use the 87 terminal from relay #1 to power relay #2. A short in the wiring will cause current to flow backwards through the switch wiring from your dash lighting circuit, and either blow the dash lighting fuse or melt the wiring. Also you would be pulling extra current though the parking light circuit.
There other ways you could do this, but this pretty much mimics the factory set up. By wiring this way you won't have any chance of passing the high current fog lamp load though the factory switch (how ever see below).

Terminal 87 on relay #1 can be used to trigger a set of driving lights using a third relay set up like relay #2, and a second fog lamp switch inside.

I have heard some people complain how the factory set up will over time burn up the factory switch. The only way to burn up the factory switch with this set up is if there was a short in the parking light circuit, or something that draws more current (like an inproperly wired trailer harness). The 5A fuse should blow with a dead short in the parking lamp circuit, but if you wanted to completely protect the switch, and the dash lighting circuit add a diode (capable of handling 12v, and 500mA) to the violet wire. the cathode (side with stripe) needs to be toward the switch on the violet wire.
 
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Connector 100 is the huge main connector on the left hand side up under the dash. I suppose you could do that but I think it would be easier to just run a whole new wire all the way. I mean your have to run a wire through the firewall anyway. So you might as well just run it the rest of the way to the switch.

Here is a pic of connector 100
DSCF1664.jpg



Now to make the lights operate like the factory ones you need two relays.

First relay needs to be a SPDT relay. Has 85,86, 30, 87, 87a
Second relay can be a standard SPST relay Has 85, 86, 30, 87


.Wire from the high beam lights to the 85 (relay #1) terminal 86 (relay #1) .goes to ground.
.Parking light to fuse 30 (relay #1) 87a (relay #1) to the switch violet wire.
.Lite blue wire from the switch then goes to the 85 (relay #2) 86 (relay#2) .to ground.
.Battery to fuse to 30 (relay #2) 87 to lights.
.You use a 5A fuse on relay #1, and a 10 or 15 amp fuse on relay #2


Do not use the 87 terminal from relay #1 to power relay #2. A short in the wiring will cause current to flow backwards through the switch wiring from your dash lighting circuit, and either blow the dash lighting fuse or melt the wiring. Also you would be pulling extra current though the parking light circuit.


DSCF1665.jpg



There other ways you could do this, but this pretty much mimics the factory set up. By wiring this way you won't have any chance of passing the high current fog lamp load though the factory switch.

Terminal 87 on relay #1 can be used to trigger a set of driving lights using a third relay set up like relay #2, and a second fog lamp switch inside.
 
Thanks again, Scooby.

I checked the PDC. My '97 Sport is missing about 6 wires that my '00 Limited has for the fog lights.

I ordered a factory fog light kit today from JeepsAreUs.com, and should get them soon. It comes with the OEM wiring harness, relays and instructions. So hopefully I'll be in business soon. They also had a switch bezel with 4 switch openings. I've never even seen one before. But I ordered it so I can have a spot for future projects like OBA.

I also need to find a place where I can get the terminating connectors and plugs for my own wiring projects. (i.e. the male and female pins inside the plugs, and the plastic plugs themselves) Anyone know if those are available at dealerships? Or somewhere else perhaps?

Appreciate your help. If you don't mind, can I PM you if I have more questions when I get this wiring harness?
 
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