ETorx bolts on transmission

[alexgalexg]

For anyone whom has removed a 4.0 from an xj, you know that on the later years they had two E 12 torx bolts on the transmission holding it to the engine. I think its 3 of them on older Xjs. I have an engine with warped cylinders in a 97 Xj and a new motor waiting to go in. All thats left are the two torx bolts. I have tried an E12 and E14 socket with extensions to get the bolts out. It seems like the E12 (which is what the bolts are supposed to be) is to small. And the E14 fit but once under high tension slipped... Guys if I cant get these bolts off this whole Xj has got to go... How can I get these things off? College is approaching rapidly and Id like to have a way of getting there.

 

[Tim_MN]

The bolts are likely corroded or full of gunk. Clean them as best you can, and try lightly hammering the tool into the bolt. After you get them out, replace them with standard hardware. It also helps to have the tail of the transmission lowered some.

 

[dan1977p]

If you tighten the other bolts back up, you will remove a lot of hanging weight from those bolts and it will make it easier to remove them. I replaced with hex head bolts as well just to make it easier if I need to remove the tranny again.

 

[GSequoia]

It's also possible the engine has been out and somebody used the wrong tool and deformed the bolt heads.

FYI all 4.0s in XJs had two E12s at the top of the bellhousing. I, personally, don't get the hate on them as when you have the right tool they work great, the bolt holds into the socket much better than a hex bolt allowing you to stab it in from below with ease.

 

[dan1977p]

It's also possible the engine has been out and somebody used the wrong tool and deformed the bolt heads.

FYI all 4.0s in XJs had two E12s at the top of the bellhousing. I, personally, don't get the hate on them as when you have the right tool they work great, the bolt holds into the socket much better than a hex bolt allowing you to stab it in from below with ease.

I use them all over on my Harley and I agree, they are great if you use the right sized socket. I just didn't want to keep an E12 in my Jeep tool kit just for these two bolts. I also have no issues at all getting to them with the transmission all the way up, either.

 

[GSequoia]

If you find you have to pull transmissions when on the trail you're doing something wrong. :cheers:

 

[alexgalexg]

Thanks guys. Ill try hammering the socket in and then attaching all the extensions. I have the transmission held up by two car jacks so It shouldnt move much. Sadly I only have this size in socket form so a long line of extensions from underneath the Jeep is the only way to unbolt these. Hopefully the new engine will go in faster than this one is coming out!

 

[dan1977p]

Thanks guys. Ill try hammering the socket in and then attaching all the extensions. I have the transmission held up by two car jacks so It shouldnt move much. Sadly I only have this size in socket form so a long line of extensions from underneath the Jeep is the only way to unbolt these. Hopefully the new engine will go in faster than this one is coming out!

Wait, you're pulling the engine? Why are you fussing with removing the transmission if you're pulling the engine anyway. Just pull them out together and then you can have all the room in the world to separate them so you can bolt the new engine up to the old tranny.

 

[dan1977p]

BTW, hammering a socket onto or into a bolt head is never a good idea. If you're to that point, stop, reassess and figure out why you are feeling like you need to do that. Best case, it works but more likely it won't and you will strip the head of the bolt and be left with a much harder extraction.

 

[alexgalexg]

Im going to order the correct wrench and have it shipped on expedited so that hopefully the engine swap will be done by next thursday. Its a little difficult for me to remove both the engine and the trans. I dont know that my 40 year old GM lift will hold both at its age plus id have to rent a press for drive shaft u joint. I also dont normally have any help so guiding both out would be one hell of a job. In case you are curious its a 97. I bought it a few weeks back stone cold dead. It has warped cylinders so I bought a low miles 4.0 for it. All it has for rust is the occasional patch of surface rust underneath. And some on the steel rims ill be replacing. Im saving my money for my 99 Xj which ill be stroking and rebuilding from the ground up.

 

[xcm]

BTW, hammering a socket onto or into a bolt head is never a good idea. If you're to that point, stop, reassess and figure out why you are feeling like you need to do that. Best case, it works but more likely it won't and you will strip the head of the bolt and be left with a much harder extraction.

DISSAGREE.
Hammering a socket on is NOT a first hour-solution, nor something you'll tell your sister to do, but there are times when it works just fine... such as a rounded out bolt. Obviously, dont be a moron, and use at your own risk....

I would start with a set of these, you may have to buy both the metric AND standard to find the one that fits tightest, but they are a life saver, and will serve you well in your journeys.

 

[xcm]

plus id have to rent a press for drive shaft u joint.

Um, what? Ive seen guys press ujoints in a driveshaft with a rock and a hammer.... but its not needed for removing a rear driveshaft... Remove the rear axle ujoint straps/ubolts, tape the ujoint so it doesnt fall apart, then slide the front yoke off the trans.... you might want to have a pan ready at the tcase/trans.

 

[Patrick S.]

Just a tip. I had a friend hold the socket straight against the bolts.

 

[BrokenSockets]

When I swapped my transmission the E-torx were the hardest to get to, but lots of extensions and a u-joint socket worked great. I found that with lots of extensions it was actually easier getting the driver side bolt going over the top from the other side somehow.

Why do you need to do anything to the driveshaft joints?

 

[cruiser54]

Always loosen/remove those pesky bolts FIRST!

 

[Sidewinder CC]

When I pulled my engine the two top bolts got buggered dicking around with them so I pulled the head so I could get a better/top shot at them.

I found that if I used a Kobalt (Lowes) 12 point ratcheting hinge head wrench (pic) and a 2' length of steel 3/4" electrical conduit used for leverage, I could get the bolts out easily.

The Kobalt 12 point has nice sharp teeth which fit tightly over the Torx head.

Going back on I used hex head bolts in place of the Torx head bolts (pic). You would want the Hillman part number 43191 bolts for the top.

The head removal method works if you are going to remove the engine but not so handy if you are just going to R&R the transmission.

Wrench:

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Replacement bolts:

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