ECU Temp vs Gauge Temp

Here is a wiring diagram that's suppose to be for a 98. If your thinking of wiring into your existing oe circuit I would find a wiring diagram for the same year and engine vehicle. There are also some write-ups online how to wire into the oe wiring to install a aux. fan manual switch.

aux_fan001.jpg
 
The Jeep's signal, brake and running/tail lights are also able to connect to a tow vehicle.
For each tow vehicle bulb connection a diode is installed. This is important when using your OE lighting for towing. The diodes also have heat sinks.
tow light circuit __diode___
oe light circuit __________| ___(bulb)
You can wire in a single diode or purchase ones with heat sinks designed for tow vehicles, vehicle lighting, etc..
Splicing into the oe harness takes more work, sometimes diodes are necessary to prevent potential problems.

My XJ has been pulled behind our motor home for over 60,000 miles.
Not wanting to cut into the Factory wiring, I ran a separate tail light system, used when towing.
There is room in the twilight housings for an added bulb and socket
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/3491989243/in/album-72157603323570942/
I used this kit.
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Bulb-Socket-Tail-Light-Wiring-Kit-69-p/bx8869.htm
Diodes drop the voltage, providing less lumens where you need them.
Bypassing the undersized Factory taillight wiring and using dedicated wire, without diodes, provides the maximum voltage to the bulbs.
Also added a LED center brake light For better visibility .
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/4117021964/in/album-72157603323570942/
 
My XJ has been pulled behind our motor home for over 60,000 miles.
Not wanting to cut into the Factory wiring, I ran a separate tail light system, used when towing.
There is room in the twilight housings for an added bulb and socket
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/3491989243/in/album-72157603323570942/
I used this kit.
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Bulb-Socket-Tail-Light-Wiring-Kit-69-p/bx8869.htm
Diodes drop the voltage, providing less lumens where you need them.
Bypassing the undersized Factory taillight wiring and using dedicated wire, without diodes, provides the maximum voltage to the bulbs.
Also added a LED center brake light For better visibility .
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/4117021964/in/album-72157603323570942/

Yeah, that's probably how I would have done it in the first place.

The lighting kit and harness was originally installed by a professional welding & RV shop in another 4x4 that was eventually wrecked off-road. I tore out the wiring harness and installed it in the XJ, then found a tow bar plate for the XJ so to be able to use the same type of tow bar.

Tow bar equipment can become expensive, when purchased new, sometimes run well over a couple of grand if you have them installed along with a brake controller. I've used the inertia portable type and they do work. You then have a set of 8 brakes vs 4 brakes. Stopping is much quicker & shorter distance. For frequent hauls in traffic and cross-country hauls I would recommend a tow brake.

I've purchased new tow bars but also have seen used one's still in good condition at RV shops for much less. Once in a while tow bars show up at garage sales, on craigslist, etc. still in good shape. There usually are repair kits and spare parts available for tow bars. If you're good at welding you can fabricate your own tow bar plate, etc.

_________

What I did to fix the low light output, was install a lighting voltage amplifier kit, such as a brite-lite kit. The kits are designed to be installed in the vehicle that's doing the towing, but you can rewire them so they work in a vehicle being towed.

I have the amp kit wired so when requiring tow lights I plug the lighting amp. into to the XJ's tow lights wiring harness from inside the engine compartment.

I normally keep it unplugged and stored inside when not in use.
 
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So I did a bit of experimenting today... Took my underhood fuse and relay box apart so I could get to the back side of it. Whipped out my voltmeter and figured out which control side terminal for the fan relay is hot and which is switched. (Turns out the terminal's only hot in RUN to boot.) Clipped into the switched ground circuit on the back side of the box with a jumper wire and grounded it. Fan kicked on just like it should, didn't hear the A/C coil engage, but the check engine light was on. Get out the pocket scanner and retrieve a P0420 (Bank 1 catalytic converter efficiency below threshold. Don't care about that one) and a P1491. Clear both codes and repeat. Same thing, get a P1491 code again. Turns out it's for "Radiator fan relay circuit." :-\ Looks like I'll have to figure out a way to make this all work using a second relay...
 
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