Thanks for the writeup. We did my heater core this past weekend and it was a PITA, but it works. And we did it without having to discharge the AC. We had just enough room to get the bolts off around where the core is, and the one real bear was the one in between the two lines going to the core. If anyone's going to try to get that out without taking their AC out, we used a 7mm on an electric ratchet that just barely fit in there, and fairly small hands. We tried a lot of different configurations and a LOT of fumbling, but it was possible without taking the AC out. Something like 2 1/2 hours taking that one bolt out and putting it back in, but that was a lot of experimentation and fumbling. If you have an easy way to remove your AC, do it that way. If you're already into it like we were, try this.
Thanks for this! My '96 Cherokee decided it would be a great birthday present, and started leaking from the heater core on my way to work today. Reading through this made me decide to put it off and just bypass for now since I have A/C and just recharged it last month. I'll probably attempt to do it without removing the A/C, but with my luck...:hang:
Hi, from the Netherlands (Europe) I'm going to replace the core next week.
I'll first tke it in the shop to empty the AC.
Also they will disconnect the lines with a special tool so
After that I can have a go.....
This wrietup is without the AC, so wonder if there's something to be aware of.
only difference is the evap core will come off with the box. make sure it's all disconnected.
I did this this way one time. Never again. pulling the dash out completely takes 15 minutes if you know what you're doing. I'm not laying on my back or in goofy angles to do an xj heater core again.
I stranded at the point the box should come out by pulling it down and backwards.
But the right part of the box will not let go, it moves but when I really want it to separate I think parts are going to break.
But after reading this topic again for the 20th time it's likely to happen.
One thing I did forget is removing the center console around the shifter.
Thought it could stay in and saved me some time.
Anyway, what I'm looking for some more info and maybe some pics to put me on the right track.
Wanted to post some pics but my phone went dead this afternoon.
Monday I'm back on the job and take some pics.
Personally, having done it enough times, I can have the complete dash out in about 20 minutes or less on an early model. It makes working on it a ton easier than standing on your head. If nothing else, pull the passenger seat, it makes it easier.
Thanks, but I'm afraid to take out the complete dash to find out things don't work anymore after putting it all back togethere.
There are loads of wires, vacuumlines and other stuff to mess up.
Going to give it another try this afternoon, I must have mist a screw or clip.
This is how it came out, note tha the bottom stus is completely broken of.
The one above almost.
Popped in a piece of sheet metal on the inside:
Found some hadware that I could use after some alterations:
Big advantage is I only have to line up one stud when putting back the unit and it's studs through the firewall ( is this good English....? )
And as I discovered, somewome else tried, or actuallyt removed the unit before.
Screws are missing and things are different then factory standard.
Anyway, job is done.
More pics and "HowTo & How-Not-to" will follow.
Hope this extra info will help the next one to do this PITA repair.
Thank you very much. I had been looking at the 97 and newer videos where you have to pull the whole dash and the whole heater box. I was dreading that. Know that I know this I'll tackle it this weekend.
Thank you very much. I had been looking at the 97 and newer videos where you have to pull the whole dash and the whole heater box. I was dreading that. Know that I know this I'll tackle it this weekend.