Driveshaft question

[TomMcD]

So, I was getting ready to pull the D35 out and replace it with an XJ D44 when I noticed there wasn't going to be much if any compression left on the slip yoke with the ~1" longer nose of the D44. I do have what I think is a t-case drop, (four pucks that space the cross member down about an inch?) Would removing that gain me back the extra length I need?

I plan on adding degree shims to address the compound angle of the u-joints. And at some point lowering the lift from the current ~6 to what I feel is an ideal 4.5 for a DD.

This is a '96 Auto that I picked up from a former member that already had the lift and some other things done to it, that I've slowly been redoing to my liking.

Thanks

 

[Frank Z]

Assuming you have 3.5" or more of lift:

I'd recommend getting rid of the t-case drop and replacing t with an SYE. You can then use the front driveshaft from any 91+ AW4 equipped XJ. Two birds, one stone.

 

[Hypoid]

In the mean-time, a shaft from a 8.25" equiped heep might fit the bill.

When it is convenient, measure the shaft you have from yoke center to yoke center. Knowing how much shorter you want does not help without an overall measurement.

I measured two of the newer style shafts: One measures 27.75", the other measures 28.75". The shorter one was matched to an AW4/231/8.25" driveline combo. I don't remember what the longer one came from.

Point is, you might be able to fit up a shaft without a trip to the driveline shop.

 

[kniel3378]

Assuming you have 3.5" or more of lift:

I'd recommend getting rid of the t-case drop and replacing t with an SYE. You can then use the front driveshaft from any 91+ AW4 equipped XJ. Two birds, one stone.

just outta curiosity. why a 91 or newer?

 

[TomMcD]

In the mean-time, a shaft from a 8.25" equiped heep might fit the bill.

When it is convenient, measure the shaft you have from yoke center to yoke center. Knowing how much shorter you want does not help without an overall measurement.

I measured two of the newer style shafts: One measures 27.75", the other measures 28.75". The shorter one was matched to an AW4/231/8.25" driveline combo. I don't remember what the longer one came from.

Point is, you might be able to fit up a shaft without a trip to the driveline shop.

I get ~28.5 u-joint center to u-joint center and 7 3/8 from the face of the metal cover at the base of the output shaft to the center of the u-joint. At least as best as I can tell with a quick measurement in a half dark garage after getting home from work.

Sounds like maybe a shaft from an AW4/231 - 8.25 would fit right in. At least worth a try. If it works it'll get me through until I get to the to the rebuild, SYE stage.

 

[Frank Z]

just outta curiosity. why a 91 or newer?

Oops, I screwed the pooch on which year. Should have said from any year other than 84-86. This is what the early model XJ's used up front.

 

[RenoXJ]

Assuming you have 3.5" or more of lift:

I'd recommend getting rid of the t-case drop and replacing t with an SYE. You can then use the front driveshaft from any 91+ AW4 equipped XJ. Two birds, one stone.

this is what I was thinking.

 

[Tim_MN]

Drive shaft length measured from the center of each u-joint on the tube part of the drive shaft for 4.0L with AW4 and NP231.


29 spline 8.25 .... 27 7/8"
1997 + D35 ........ 28 7/8"
1987 D44 .......... 29 5/8"

 

[G.P_XJ]

Assuming you have 3.5" or more of lift:

I'd recommend getting rid of the t-case drop and replacing t with an SYE. You can then use the front driveshaft from any 91+ AW4 equipped XJ. Two birds, one stone.

I would go with what Frank said, and if the drive shaft ends up being to long in the rear you can cut it down to length.

Here's a write up on how to do that.

http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=68456

 

[TomMcD]

Drive shaft length measured from the center of each u-joint on the tube part of the drive shaft for 4.0L with AW4 and NP231.


29 spline 8.25 .... 27 7/8"
1997 + D35 ........ 28 7/8"
1987 D44 .......... 29 5/8"

It seems counter intuitive that the D44 drive shaft would be longer than the D35 since the housing on the D44 is longer. Unless the extra length is needed because the earlier shafts are set up for the internal slip yoke rather than the later external one?

 

[Hypoid]

Same thought here, but the older shaft I have is hooked up to a 242 T-case. I don't know if the rear has to be matched to the tranny/T-case combo like the front shaft does. I'm not sure the T-case is even a consideration for shaft length, but the tranny is.

I think D-44 and 8.25 pinion lengths are pretty close, just don't want to search for the answer.

Anyway, if you can't source a shaft close to home, I'll be around most of the weekend. Drive the beast up and you can try the one I have.

 

[tbburg]

If you're driving it with the longer drive shaft, BE CAREFUL. You his a bump hard enough to bottom the shaft out, and your SCREWED. So be careful until you get that fixed.

 

[TomMcD]

If you're driving it with the longer drive shaft, BE CAREFUL. You his a bump hard enough to bottom the shaft out, and your SCREWED. So be careful until you get that fixed.

10-4 TB, that's why I didn't complete the swap until I figured out what was going on.

I'm going to take out the t-case drop on my next day off and measure to see if that gives me enough space and go from there. Hypoid is less than 40 miles from me so I can run up there in Front Wheel drive if I need to thanks to the external slip yoke.

I did find a hack and tap kit for $87 and can pull a front shaft for another $20 at one of the local u-pull JY. Just not sure when I'll have time to make that happen and I don't like the sounds coming from the 35.

 

[91blackbox]

ok so i'm still lost after reading this whole thread...

i have a 91 with 6" lift d30 in the front, c8.25" in the rear 242 tc auto trans

need longer shafts...

recomendations?

 

[91blackbox]

no ideas guys??