Drill out or cut off?

[imma honky]

The rivets or whatever they are that hold the internals of the door in (regulator, motor, ect). Should I cut the ends off and pop em out or drill em out? I am scrapping the parts, but I don't want to mess up the holes.

 

[5-90]

Just drill them. I don't remember if they were 1/8" or 3/16", so start on one with the 1/8" bit first.

I do remember they were pretty tough, so (of course!) lubricate and go easy.

5-90

Oh - when I put everything back together I used bolts and "aero" nylon-collar locknuts, and that worked fine. I know I used 1/4" bolts when I put it all back together - I just don't remember if I drilled the holes out or if they actually used 1/4" rivets - so keep the 1/4" bit handy. If they're 3/16", I think #10 bolts will do the job.

5-90

 

[imma honky]

So you wouldn't recommend rivetting again? And where can I find some more on these "aero" thingys. Also, I am noticing what looks like some surface rust on the inside of the door. Any way to treat this/ prevent this? It is a tight squeeze. My window seals were dry rotted, so water leaked in the doors.

 

[wilcharl]

i just poped mine out last week... used a nice metal bit and my 18volt drill wazaped them all out... i replaced them with the blind nut clip thiniges and they work great

 

[imma honky]

Holes are 3/16 by the way. And they are a biotch to drill out! Bit keeps wanting to wander around!
I got 3 out so far.

 

[8Mud]

I used a 6 MM drill, the holes are 1/4" I believe. Then used 1/4" nuts and bolts, with dab of light Loc Tite on each bolt. Hammerite paint works well on rust, then a coat of wax to seep into the cracks. The door hole undercoating (odorless) works well, wax base.
The 6 MM drill cuts the heads first so most times the rivet without the head just pops out the back. The 6 MM is just a fraction larger (actually almost exactly) the size of the hole. I may have used a drill slightly larger than absolutly necessary, but it sure made getting the rivets out a lot easier. I also drilled at a low speed, with a sharp bit.

 

[imma honky]

I used a 6 MM drill, the holes are 1/4" I believe. Then used 1/4" nuts and bolts, with dab of light Loc Tite on each bolt. Hammerite paint works well on rust, then a coat of wax to seep into the cracks. The door hole undercoating (odorless) works well, wax base.
The 6 MM drill cuts the heads first so most times the rivet without the head just pops out the back. The 6 MM is just a fraction larger (actually almost exactly) the size of the hole. I may have used a drill slightly larger than absolutly necessary, but it sure made getting the rivets out a lot easier. I also drilled at a low speed, with a sharp bit.

Thanks, I just found this out myself! But it's good to know im on the right path. I got 5 holes out so far, gotta keep takin breaks.

 

[5-90]

"Aero" locknuts are just nuts with the nylon collar at the top - the hole in the nylon is smaller than the OD of the screw, so the nylon is deformed and keeps the bolt from vibrating loose. Not the thing for high-stress stuff, but works great for stuff like this - check your local.

For the rust, I think Rustoleum has a "Pro" spray version of their rust converter - stops the corrosive action of the rust and allows you to paint over it again. Rust-Mort (check a body shop supplier for htis one) also works well - but takes a little more work. I think the Rustoleum is fire and forget.

The wax isn't a bad idea - just get it in there.

I didn't have any trouble with bit walk - but I think the holes in the rivets were still there for me to pilot on, which always helps.

5-90

 

[imma honky]

I will check out those nylon nuts next time im at the store. I will also look in to the rustoleum spray. Thanks for the info!

 

[8Mud]

There are all kinds of rust neutralizing paints and coatings out there. Hammerite has been around for a long time, it does work, it was actually the forerunner to POR. It´s desinged to paint over rust, just clean off the loose stuff, paint and forget it for five years or so. hammerirte is designed for outside metal grill work, gates and window bars. It has a thinner (for the original formula) to make it (thinner) leech a bit better, as it´s pretty thick out of the can. Hammerite has a newer (latex?) paint that`s (supposed to be) water soluble and is also a paint over rust type paint. It´s been on my front bumper brakets and tow hooks for two years now and still looks good(no rust yet), it actually adheres rather well (I painted over some chrome parts, with just a light sanding and no primer).
Rustolium also makes a good product, I haven´t tried there rust neutralizers, but there rusty metal primer, with a top coat of enamel, works well. The rusty metal primer, without a sealer (top coat) can be a little iffy on some rusty metal. The Hammerite dries a whole lot quicker though.

 

[imma honky]

I have all the rivets out now, ubt I can't seem to maneuver the bar to lower the window for removal. What gives? Any tricks?

 

[8Mud]

If it´s the electric window, take the large nut off of the bottom of the window and make an "S" hook out of coat hanger wire, to hold the window all the way up. Remove the cross brace, door stiffener, also riveted in. You can get the window motor and assembly out without removing anything else or bending anything, but it takes some trial and error, don´t get frustrated. Taking the speaker out also helped me a bit, though not much. Take the rubber extension off of the bottom of the window motor, cable guide, if it´s a Renix.
The book says you have to loosen and/or remove a window runner, which I´ve never done. I always managed to chinese puzzle it out of there, after awhile, though I did scratch up the back of my hands some.

 

[imma honky]

Ahh, didn't know there was a nut holding the window on the runner. FYI, the door is sitting in my room (off the jeep). I am completely dismanteling it (windows, insides, mirror, wing window, ect).

 

[8Mud]

Ahh, didn't know there was a nut holding the window on the runner. FYI, the door is sitting in my room (off the jeep). I am completely dismanteling it (windows, insides, mirror, wing window, ect).

Kind of wondered, if you were running between the garage and the computer.

 

[imma honky]

Hell naw. I'm a lazy bum. Sad thing is, the door has been sitting off the jeep for 4 months and in my room for one of those months. i'm just now getting to it!. I got everything out, now it's just a bone shell. I am gonna run to the stores tomorrow for paints and what-not.
Does anyone know if the window trimming/wipes are dealer only items? and how much they run? I saw a set on Ebay liek a year ago, but I haven't seen any since. i am refurbing all 4 doors. Also, has anyone used some expanding foam at the bottom of the doors for insulation?

 

[AZ Jeff]

Hell naw. I'm a lazy bum. Sad thing is, the door has been sitting off the jeep for 4 months and in my room for one of those months. i'm just now getting to it!. I got everything out, now it's just a bone shell. I am gonna run to the stores tomorrow for paints and what-not.
Does anyone know if the window trimming/wipes are dealer only items? and how much they run? I saw a set on Ebay liek a year ago, but I haven't seen any since. i am refurbing all 4 doors. Also, has anyone used some expanding foam at the bottom of the doors for insulation?

DON'T use expanding foam in the bottom of the doors for insulation. It will absorb moisture, and promote rust of the door from the inside!!!!!

 

[imma honky]

DON'T use expanding foam in the bottom of the doors for insulation. It will absorb moisture, and promote rust of the door from the inside!!!!!

Mkay, sounds like a pretty good reason!
Well, then as for now, thanks for all the info. Now I just have to do the other doors. Wish me luck!

 

[8Mud]

I used expanding foam in the hole spaces in a VW bug. Took some out for a project and noticed rot under the foam. Foam often lets some moisture in, but doesn´t let it dry back out again quickly. Really need to use something that is water proof and/or make allowances for it to dry back out occasionally.
I priced the window wipers and remember them being really expensive, like $35 a piece. Raybuck autobody parts, used to have some of the door rubber, fairly cheap, but they were always kind of hit or miss on sending the right pieces, though they always sent something and never actually ripped me off.

 

[imma honky]

I used expanding foam in the hole spaces in a VW bug. Took some out for a project and noticed rot under the foam. Foam often lets some moisture in, but doesn´t let it dry back out again quickly. Really need to use something that is water proof and/or make allowances for it to dry back out occasionally.
I priced the window wipers and remember them being really expensive, like $35 a piece. Raybuck autobody parts, used to have some of the door rubber, fairly cheap, but they were always kind of hit or miss on sending the right pieces, though they always sent something and never actually ripped me off.

I'm gonna hit up the dealership prolly tomorrow.

 

[8Mud]

I'm gonna hit up the dealership prolly tomorrow.

Check out the Raybuck site, just for a price comparison, they may have what you want. They do carry a pretty good selection of various clips and fasteners.