Draveshaft disc parking brake

[cruzmyxj]

Here are those pics I promised:

It looks like your caliper started on the side and got rotated to the bottom. Was there a clearance issue? Did you think that being on the bottom would better protect the rotor from trail damage? Is the caliper cable operated or hydralic? Odd looking caliper, did the setup come in some kind of kit? If not were did you get the caliper and rotor? Any driveline vibes? Even though it looks like there is a spot for a fourth bolt it only appears that there are three holding the rotor on. Any clearance issues with the bolt shanks behind the drive shaft flange? TY.

 

[vegard]

I was thinking I might make my own SYE (89XJ) and fabricate a tailcone with a caliper mount on it. I like this idea. I just read okie terry's SYE, and I could do something similar pretty easily. Hmmmm. some calipers Im thinking about:
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=452492&prmenbr=361
http://www.tsmmfg.com/7211.htm
http://www.tsmmfg.com/7210.htm

I have some motorcycle discs at work.....

My parking brake cables are short at the moment, and it would make axle swaps easier. I think I might have to do this.

- Vegard

 

[Cherokee91Red]

I might be out of it here having little idea about strength or legality of it. But instead of a standard disc brake on the output shaft as a parking brake. Would a mechanism similar to that used on steering columns be feasible? Like have a disk with holes stamped through it, and then a pin that slides and locks in the holes. Would this be a possible scenario?

 

[cruzmyxj]

I might be out of it here having little idea about strength or legality of it. But instead of a standard disc brake on the output shaft as a parking brake. Would a mechanism similar to that used on steering columns be feasible? Like have a disk with holes stamped through it, and then a pin that slides and locks in the holes. Would this be a possible scenario?

Well as far as strength, I would have to say it would be pretty strong. You are breaking above the gear reduction of the differentials. So multiply your braking force by the gear reduction and I think you will see you have an excessive amount of force to keep the tires from rotating. As far as legality, I will state this once again. I have no plans to REMOVE THE STOCK PARKING BRAKE. I will keep the cable operated parking brakes for legality and add the drive line brake with a seperate braking handle strictly for off road use.

 

[JeepFreak21]

It looks like your caliper started on the side and got rotated to the bottom. Was there a clearance issue? Did you think that being on the bottom would better protect the rotor from trail damage? Is the caliper cable operated or hydralic? Odd looking caliper, did the setup come in some kind of kit? If not were did you get the caliper and rotor? Any driveline vibes? Even though it looks like there is a spot for a fourth bolt it only appears that there are three holding the rotor on. Any clearance issues with the bolt shanks behind the drive shaft flange? TY.

It's not mine, I believe I found those pics on the Pirate Board. I seem to remember that being a caliper for a shifter cart... which would make it cable actuated.
Billy

 

[badron]

A front wheel line-lock will hold better then any thing you can put on the drive shaft. Manly because it include the heavier front end. I have seen trucks sliding in dirt down a hill with the rear wheel locked up all the way to the bottom.

 

[cruzmyxj]

A front wheel line-lock will hold better then any thing you can put on the drive shaft. Manly because it include the heavier front end. I have seen trucks sliding in dirt down a hill with the rear wheel locked up all the way to the bottom.

Um, pull the T-case shift lever, engage the Ox Locker, and set the hydralic parking brake on the T-case output. Now all four wheels are locked. If a tire tries to roll, it has to turn the drive shafts. They are locked by the brake on the T-case. Besides, it's about fabbing it myself, not getting a line lock from Summit, and bolting it in.

 

[vegard]

I ordered this caliper:
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=452492&prmenbr=361

got a front driveshaft at the yard, grabbed a motorcycle disc, and Im pulling the case this afternoon. I figure Ill sneak in some personal machining at work this week, and get the hoimemade SYE done.

I think that one of the great things that I will be able to do with this is use the same calipers on both axles, which would be awesome.

- Vegard

 

[JeepFreak21]

A front wheel line-lock will hold better then any thing you can put on the drive shaft.

For how long?
Billy

 

[badron]

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For how long?
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Line-locks don't bleed down. Not like they did at one time any way. Or as long as you keep your brakes up if that's what you mean. They will work even if you drop a shaft. Blow a transfer, or spin a hub. Twist an axle off (not as big a problem with a locker) The LL will most likely still work at 100% Will the band brake be at 100% if any of them things happen? But Im wasting my time. You got you head set on a shine new gismo and will shoot down any new idea. No mater how good it works.

 

[cruzmyxj]

You got you head set on a shine new gismo and will shoot down any new idea. No mater how good it works.

Or the inverse is in order and you have your head set on 40 year old technology that is a simple bolt in, and will shoot down any shinny new gismo. No matter how good it works.

 

[badron]

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Or the inverse is in order and you have your head set on 40 year old technology that is a simple bolt in, and will shoot down any shinny new gismo. No matter how good it works.
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IM not sure what age has to do with it. This may not be the right forum being it's a bolt on idea. But I was try to show a deferent way of doing it. Hard to do from an other forum. The band brake is main brake system independent but is very drive train dependent. The LL is just the opposite. If the bolt-on thing is a problem. Make your own line lock.

 

[vegard]

The point is 1st to have a redundant system, where there is a mechanical backup in case of hydraulic failure. This also passes inspection, where a linelock would not. And if it ends up being a really shiny gizmo... who could resist?

- Vegard

 

[vegard]

A little update:
I made the disc, and I am waiting on the caliper to build the tailcone.

 

[JeepFreak21]

A little update:
I made the disc, and I am waiting on the caliper to build the tailcone.

The piece on the left is part of your SYE? If so, what brand?
Billy

 

[vegard]

thats actually an extra front yoke. Im planning to build an sye, much like Okie Terry, using a side gear from a d-35 welded into that yoke. And I have spare front driveshaft I hope to use.

 

[vegard]

Okie Terry's thread that inspired this:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38907&highlight=okiefab+sye
(thanks!!)

 

[tealcherokee]

well, my 8.8 and h&t are going in soon, so hopefully ill get this working, i hate being w/o a parking brake

 

[JLane99XJ]

Here are those pics I promised:

Holy Big Brake Batman

how much room is under that Jeep of yours??

 

[xuv-this]

i like the idea, but not for an ebrake.

The army duece and a half which is were all those purdy 21/2 rockwells come from, had a drum on the output of the t-case with a shoe that clamped onto the outside of the drum. Not really a drumb brake, and not really a disk brake, kinda a bastardsystem

that's right. some hemmit's have them, too. they shine in loose sand. but every unit in the army mandates chock blocks when the vehicle is parked. any vehicle. for the 5 min. it takes to make a couple from a wood block; vs. risking all the $ and time put into our rigs...i would make a couple. plus it doubles as a lift spacer for a jack.