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Doorless

@chedisme: "... down the very center of the body from the mechanical fan center to the center of the rear license plate." is not an attempt at generality.

@sunburned: No need to measure in order to know that the longitudinal axis of the vehicle does not run through the center of the mech. fan. If it did, the fan would be in the center of the vehicle, which it is not.
 
wish i could go doorless but i know some asshole will steal my stereo, tools, and gps! and ill have to XXXX with all the wiring for power windows/locks/dome light/alarm
 
you can go doorless, but you may want to think about when you go doorless. my doors stay on most of the time except when on the trail.
 
Go read the writeup on Jeep Forum. On a '97 plus, just use a dremel to cut the hinge pins in half to get them out. Then replace with a 5/16" bolt and a nut. Done. If you want the doors to be a little more secure, you can drill out the hinges to 3/8" and not use the little crappy stock 'spacers' that go around the bolt.

I'm not setup on JF....so all you need to do for a 97+ is cut the hinge pin and then replace with a bolt, or a bigger bolt?? I've been holding off for so long because I never knew how to do it on a 97+!! Thanx.
 
Pretty much. If you have power stuff, pull the kick panels in the front and disconnect the wires, then pull them through the a-pillar. Be warned though, none of your windows will work without the driver's door, so roll them down where you want them before taking off the doors. Also, the doors are heavy as hell, making it a bit tough to take them on and off by yourself.
 
Pretty much. If you have power stuff, pull the kick panels in the front and disconnect the wires, then pull them through the a-pillar. Be warned though, none of your windows will work without the driver's door, so roll them down where you want them before taking off the doors. Also, the doors are heavy as hell, making it a bit tough to take them on and off by yourself.
If you have a garage, you could put a hook in the ceiling over where each door will be when opened, then use a ratchet strap to hold most of the weight while you pull/insert the pins.
 
If you have a garage, you could put a hook in the ceiling over where each door will be when opened, then use a ratchet strap to hold most of the weight while you pull/insert the pins.

or, if you don't have a garage you could use your neighbor's swingset while they're not home.
 
I have my doors mod so i can quickly take them on and off. I havent done the rear yet as I need to get some extra doors to cut up for 1/2 doors or get some tube doors. The reason for this is I would like something in back for my kids, otherwise when I get to mod the rear doors (if kids arent going I would go totally doorless!). I love driving around town too with no doors.. get a lot of looks and the guys at work get all wigged out about no doors on it so that is the icing on the cake :p. :)
 
Dam guys, i'm over 50 an remove and reinstall my doors in 20 mins..Get off your big old butt an get it done..It opens it up real nice, makes it alot easier to see..
 
I just all 4 last weekend and it wasn't bad at all if you slackers are weezing hit the damn gym more often:doh:... I drove it 100 miles roundtrip to and from the trail with no doors at it was a cool 108* on sunday when I went to run trails my results love it and will never put the doors back on but will try and avoid the mud with fullwidth axles and no doors though...:shocked:.. It might be cool in the winter but Ill dress better..

themud

I did finally figure out how to not get covered in mud buy snow shoes and put it on my left leg and put it on the sill panel...
 
I'm actually more of a fan of removing doors with pick-axes and crowbars (hell yeah college frat car smash parties) but hey, he complained about the weight...

The only thing I'm really worried about is the wiring, is there a connector in there somewhere? I've seen a lot of people cut the wiring and add a milspec canon/amphenol round bulkhead connector.
 
The only thing I'm really worried about is the wiring, is there a connector in there somewhere?

If you have power stuff, pull the kick panels in the front and disconnect the wires, then pull them through the a-pillar. Be warned though, none of your windows will work without the driver's door, so roll them down where you want them before taking off the doors...

Robert
 
Wow I'm a dumbass. I completely forgot I read that... in this thread.

Shouldn't be too hard to make a stub connector for the driver door harness that patches up the wiring as if the driver's door is connected so that the back door windows still work, though.
 
The only thing I'm really worried about is the wiring, is there a connector in there somewhere? I've seen a lot of people cut the wiring and add a milspec canon/amphenol round bulkhead connector.
The front doors have multiple connectors behind the kick panels, the back doors don't have anything. I wired up quick connectors in the pillars on mine so that I wouldn't have to mess with that stuff, and also to interrupt ground so that the lights and buzzers would work with the doors off. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=965728
 
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