PRYAPSM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas, MO
My write up from Labor weekend!
A little bit about the Jeep. We bought it in San Diego in June from a friend. We plan to buy her Jeep from her a year prior, she was dragging her feet way too long!
Anyways it is a 98 limited at the time we bought it there was 192k miles on it. While we were visiting AZ we found out the hard way that the cool system is not up to par, she neglected to tell us that one!
With some research and a few posts I decided it was time to replace the cooling system. Along with other things!!
List of the parts
From Ebay, jeeprockstar
Jeep YJ Wrangler 4 Cyl AC/Engine Bracket 91-95 + the hardware $32.00
The posting stated everything is in good working order, when I got the bracket the idler pulley was seized. I was lucky that was the case because they sent me another bracket, I will get to that later in the installation.
Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 Alternator/Engine Bracket 93-98 $28.00
140amp Alternator $34.00
3row CSF from Radiator Barn $198
GMB water pump ebay $35.00
Wires from ( 5-90 naxja) $155.55
Dirtbound fans with controller $235.00
Advance Auto parts. They allow you to enter multiple discounts before you checkout, I got up to 35% off.
Upper radiator hose: Part # E71320 $12.00
Lower radiator hose, hose clamps, Super Stat 195 thermostat, 91.5 belt, Peak flush kit, vinegar and misc. parts $65.00
The parts.
I shot the shroud white to match.
The install..
1. Stared by with removing of the fans, nothing was really hard there. There was a little fight of getting the mechanical fan out. I also removed the front header, 2 reasons, one I had a new one I was going to replace it with, second it was a great time to drive down the local car wash and get all those dead bugs out of the ac condenser.
2. Before I drove to the carwash I added Peak super flush. The coolant was a nasty brown so that took up many worthless hours flushing it out. I did use T-connecter from the kit that probably saved me some time though. After I got it pretty much clear, I added vinegar started it for a little bit and let it set for the night.
3. The next morning, with the radiator drained I removed the upper and lower hose. Removal of the transmission lines was the hard part.
The upper was easy, now the lower PAIN. Since I was replacing the radiator I snipped the pipe coming out of the radiator, I left something to grab onto if need be. The proper way is to rent or buy a tool. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/new-radiator-tranny-line-connection-828231/
4. With the radiator out of the way, I started working on the brackets. Starting with the ac condenser, I unbolted the 4 bolts and moved it out of the way. The alternator was also removed. With those two out of the way I was able to remove the brackets with ease.
5. Now on to the wiring since I have the alternator removed and the brackets, it gave me tons more room to work with. Also I removed the battery and tray; with the tray removed I trimmed it for the larger alternator.
With the wires I treated them like spark plug wires take one off find the proper length and install new ones. I also had to find a good spot for the ANL one that would be semi accessible without removing the battery in the future. I ended bolting it to the fender wall right below the fuse block. The hardest part of the wire install, was getting the larger end to fit the black boot of the positive on the alternator. I have read people trimming it with dremel, since I don’t have one I just started the bolt with the hope it would work. Well it did, ended up breaking half the boot off.
6. The new brackets. One thing I did is double check each bolt on the block before I installed each bracket. I really didn’t want have to re-tap anything. I had the brackets bead blasted and I shot them with a couple coats of clear before I installed them.
*The ZJ bracket was easy, as was the YJ upper. ONE rookie mistake I made is I didn’t check the bolt pattern of the AC condenser prior to install or bead blast. I found out the hard way once I had everything bolted up that the ac condenser bolt pattern did not match up. Luckily they sent me an extra from the same model and year.
7. With the larger alternator installed. With the timing cover bolts re-installed they stick out way too much. I ended to trimming them with a grinder.
You can see one grinded, the other not gridded.
8. Water pulley removal, I forgot to loosen the bolts prior to removing the belt. Easy fix just used a screw driver across the bolts to stabilize the pulley. Once I had the water pump off and thermostat off, I able to clean the surfaces up well. I used rubbing alcohol to do the final wipe down. Then added a bead of red RTV on both sides of the gaskets. On side note many people go back forth on which side to put RTV or even to use it all. Well I didn’t go crazy with it, just enough to create a seal. I even let them set 24 hours prior to being placed under load!
9. 3 Row CSF radiator install, easy install of this whole project! I was able to get the return line fitting off the old piece I cut, installed fine on the CSF. Installed the new upper hose which was able to route behind the ac condenser. I also used old pieces of the old upper hose to prevent chaffing on the hose. *The only problem I had was with radiator cap, I re-used the 14psi which leaked a little later under pressure. I upgraded to a 16psi not problem since.
10. Dirtbound fans and controller install,
Since I used a T-connector to flush the radiator earlier, I figured that would be a good place to install it. I ended cutting a piece of old upper hose as protection against it rubbing on the motor.
The wiring took a little bit to figure out. With some time looking at a couple forums I found this.
* Don’t forget there are two relays, one kicks on at 195 and the other at 210. So that means one fan gets on relay and the other two fans get the other relay. I forgot this fact after I tape all the wires up! If I remember right, when are looking down at the controller there is ( +, 1,2 ) 1 is 195 and 2 is 210.
Also you have to trim the top support for the Dirtbound fans to fit properly. That took some time.
Since I live in a apartment complex some didn’t take to kindly of me gridding away!
11. Final inspection, installed the 91.5 belt, added 50/50 coolant. Fired it up got all the air out of radiator and checked for leaks.
*From Ehall write up http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1016319
I did not like how close the idler pulley was to thermostat hosing so I end using a smaller idler pulley.
Since the install on Labor weekend, I install a switch for the fans. Even with city driving with fans off, it will not go above 210, on the freeway maybe 200. I defiantly ready for the hot summer days in AZ again!
Comments or questions?
A little bit about the Jeep. We bought it in San Diego in June from a friend. We plan to buy her Jeep from her a year prior, she was dragging her feet way too long!
Anyways it is a 98 limited at the time we bought it there was 192k miles on it. While we were visiting AZ we found out the hard way that the cool system is not up to par, she neglected to tell us that one!
With some research and a few posts I decided it was time to replace the cooling system. Along with other things!!
List of the parts
From Ebay, jeeprockstar
Jeep YJ Wrangler 4 Cyl AC/Engine Bracket 91-95 + the hardware $32.00
The posting stated everything is in good working order, when I got the bracket the idler pulley was seized. I was lucky that was the case because they sent me another bracket, I will get to that later in the installation.
Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 Alternator/Engine Bracket 93-98 $28.00
140amp Alternator $34.00
3row CSF from Radiator Barn $198
GMB water pump ebay $35.00
Wires from ( 5-90 naxja) $155.55
Dirtbound fans with controller $235.00
Advance Auto parts. They allow you to enter multiple discounts before you checkout, I got up to 35% off.
Upper radiator hose: Part # E71320 $12.00
Lower radiator hose, hose clamps, Super Stat 195 thermostat, 91.5 belt, Peak flush kit, vinegar and misc. parts $65.00
The parts.
I shot the shroud white to match.
The install..
1. Stared by with removing of the fans, nothing was really hard there. There was a little fight of getting the mechanical fan out. I also removed the front header, 2 reasons, one I had a new one I was going to replace it with, second it was a great time to drive down the local car wash and get all those dead bugs out of the ac condenser.
2. Before I drove to the carwash I added Peak super flush. The coolant was a nasty brown so that took up many worthless hours flushing it out. I did use T-connecter from the kit that probably saved me some time though. After I got it pretty much clear, I added vinegar started it for a little bit and let it set for the night.
3. The next morning, with the radiator drained I removed the upper and lower hose. Removal of the transmission lines was the hard part.
4. With the radiator out of the way, I started working on the brackets. Starting with the ac condenser, I unbolted the 4 bolts and moved it out of the way. The alternator was also removed. With those two out of the way I was able to remove the brackets with ease.
5. Now on to the wiring since I have the alternator removed and the brackets, it gave me tons more room to work with. Also I removed the battery and tray; with the tray removed I trimmed it for the larger alternator.
With the wires I treated them like spark plug wires take one off find the proper length and install new ones. I also had to find a good spot for the ANL one that would be semi accessible without removing the battery in the future. I ended bolting it to the fender wall right below the fuse block. The hardest part of the wire install, was getting the larger end to fit the black boot of the positive on the alternator. I have read people trimming it with dremel, since I don’t have one I just started the bolt with the hope it would work. Well it did, ended up breaking half the boot off.
6. The new brackets. One thing I did is double check each bolt on the block before I installed each bracket. I really didn’t want have to re-tap anything. I had the brackets bead blasted and I shot them with a couple coats of clear before I installed them.
*The ZJ bracket was easy, as was the YJ upper. ONE rookie mistake I made is I didn’t check the bolt pattern of the AC condenser prior to install or bead blast. I found out the hard way once I had everything bolted up that the ac condenser bolt pattern did not match up. Luckily they sent me an extra from the same model and year.
7. With the larger alternator installed. With the timing cover bolts re-installed they stick out way too much. I ended to trimming them with a grinder.
You can see one grinded, the other not gridded.
8. Water pulley removal, I forgot to loosen the bolts prior to removing the belt. Easy fix just used a screw driver across the bolts to stabilize the pulley. Once I had the water pump off and thermostat off, I able to clean the surfaces up well. I used rubbing alcohol to do the final wipe down. Then added a bead of red RTV on both sides of the gaskets. On side note many people go back forth on which side to put RTV or even to use it all. Well I didn’t go crazy with it, just enough to create a seal. I even let them set 24 hours prior to being placed under load!
9. 3 Row CSF radiator install, easy install of this whole project! I was able to get the return line fitting off the old piece I cut, installed fine on the CSF. Installed the new upper hose which was able to route behind the ac condenser. I also used old pieces of the old upper hose to prevent chaffing on the hose. *The only problem I had was with radiator cap, I re-used the 14psi which leaked a little later under pressure. I upgraded to a 16psi not problem since.
10. Dirtbound fans and controller install,
Since I used a T-connector to flush the radiator earlier, I figured that would be a good place to install it. I ended cutting a piece of old upper hose as protection against it rubbing on the motor.
The wiring took a little bit to figure out. With some time looking at a couple forums I found this.
* Don’t forget there are two relays, one kicks on at 195 and the other at 210. So that means one fan gets on relay and the other two fans get the other relay. I forgot this fact after I tape all the wires up! If I remember right, when are looking down at the controller there is ( +, 1,2 ) 1 is 195 and 2 is 210.
Also you have to trim the top support for the Dirtbound fans to fit properly. That took some time.
Since I live in a apartment complex some didn’t take to kindly of me gridding away! 11. Final inspection, installed the 91.5 belt, added 50/50 coolant. Fired it up got all the air out of radiator and checked for leaks.
*From Ehall write up http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1016319
I did not like how close the idler pulley was to thermostat hosing so I end using a smaller idler pulley.
Since the install on Labor weekend, I install a switch for the fans. Even with city driving with fans off, it will not go above 210, on the freeway maybe 200. I defiantly ready for the hot summer days in AZ again!
Comments or questions?
