In my C-clip 8.25, to remove the shafts you have to open the diff to pull the pin out of the carrier, which in turn allows you to push the axle shaft in (a little bit) to get the c-clip out. So there is the possibility to have the end of the axle ride on the "cross shaft". And the axle shaft wont move enough to allow the c-clip out with the cross shaft in there? I'm just pondering some of the details of my locker install today, double checking myself. Thanks!
Edit: I also reused my "cross shaft" because I bought the no-slip used and it didn't come with one (and it seems as though they do). That shouldn't be a problem either?
Yes, you assesment is correct. In practice, the cross shaft is need to keep the axles in their normal position, and is load bearing. To remove your shafts, you remove the cross shaft, remove the wheels and brake drums, and push in the shaft. That will make the c-clip accessable to you.
Once the C-Clip is removed, you will need to pull the axles out around 4-5" each to allow you to install the locker.
In reverse, make sure the c-clip is fully retained in the sidegear (or whatever Lock-Right calls those side gear replacements) when push the axles back into position and install the cross pin. The cross pin will separate the axles and is designed to allow the correct amount of preload for the axle bearings.
The reason they recomend you replace the cross pin is because, as I said, it is load bearing, and can wear. If your shaft has no gauling where the axles have been riding, just use your old shaft.
C-Clip drop out is usually caused by someone not installing the C-Clip fully on the axle, making sure the c-clip is in it's retainer on the gear before they button up the rear end, or excessive wear on the cross shaft/side gears allowing the axle to walk in and out of the housing and the C-Clip to drop out of position. Be sure to transfer the sidegear shims as per the instructions with the Lock-Right !!