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Deadly Death Wobble

Gone Wheeling

NAXJA Forum User
Dirty Jerz
So I've have so many Jeeps all lifted through the years but let me tell you this one is testing me. I can not seem to get rid of this death wobble. Here's what I have all brand new as of this post.
-4.5 lift clayton coils and bilstein shocks, core 4x4 adjustable tracbar, core 4x4 adjustable front lower control arms, drop pitman arm, front upper control arms and rear control arm spacer from chris. Iron rock extended swaybar end links, new steering box.

I'm at wits end and any suggestions would help.


Have you tryed rotate and rebalance your trie's ?
Get your tires balanced by a competent shop (not as easy to find as one would hope).

Make a close inspection of the connections for the track bar. I have my frame side welded. Lots of folks have gone that route for good reason. The axle side is just thin, stamped sheet metal. Lots of folks have had issues with other bits of that thin stamped metal on the axle. The passenger side upper control arm mount is the most problematic, but there are aftermarket upgrades for all the sheet metal brackets on the factory axle. Those upgrades exist for a reason. Take a good look at all the mounting brackets for all the control arms.

What spacer are you running behind the new steering box? Any reinforcement plates for the steering box? That is another area that is prone to cracking, and the factory spacer is weak.
In most cases, the problem is in track bar bushings they can be worn out, or track bar bracket hole could have oblonged
could also be caused by too much positive caster or toe on the front end alignment. a more negative set caster setting seems to alleviate some of the death wobble on lifted vehicles. too much positive off set on the wheels also helps make the wobble to to stress on the tie rod ends and drag link, ball joints. just my 3 cents
I left out the one that gave mine wobble, the upper axle side bushings for the upper control arms. Mine were a pain to knock out with a hammer and punch but grabbed an air hammer with good end and took it out no problem. new ones just lube with synthetic grease and whack back in...use very little just to make it shinny
As someone mentioned, could be frame flex at the steering box. It doesn't need to be cracked to flex. It's just a weak mounting spot. I broke two steering boxes before I bought a snout brace. I think it was a Kevin's piece.