Re: DD with larger (36"+ tires)
So many trolls.
If it's not a XJ lifted 3" on 37's it's not
, right?
I didn't ask people what I should build, simply what I should build WITH. It doesn't occur to some people here that others may like something that they don't. God forbid.
I'm not going to Moab. I'm not entering top truck challenge.
I like Cherokees. I like tall Cherokees.
You have warned me of it's downfalls and for that I'm grateful. In the OP, however, I clearly stated that I ALREADY KNEW THEM. :yelclap:
I don't know where people get the opinion that everyone on
drives 3" on 37s, but um, we don't. Mine's at 5.5" on 33s.
Your plan sounded/sounds ill-conceived. You want to run a tall lift and huge tires on stock width or close to stock width axles, that aren't fully up to the task, on a DD just because. Most of us believe in function over form. Why go with 8" and 38s to DD and run mild trails? You lose mpg, drivability, durability, etc etc only to gain largeness. That is the main reason people are telling you to stay smaller. If you lived in Florida and wanted to play in the big mud, the responses would likely be a little different (albeit, only a little...)
Anyway -- We come to my questions
I'm building a new jeep, one meant for weekend trails and Daily Driving. I'm happy with my jeep now, but I want to go bigger for my own reasons.
Please save me your opinions on low COG ETC ETC. This is my rig, let me design it how I want it.
My question is: Has anyone daily driven a XJ on 37-38 tire with around 8" of lift? If so, what gear ratio did you use, or what would you recommend. I was thinking 4.88's to keep some highway potential, and possibly doing an Atlas II or a 4:1 conversion to keep some off road crawl ratios.
My 'daily driving' would include about a 2 mile round trip between either work, or school.
Iron rock Offroad seems to get a mixed rep around here. Anyone have actual experience with this lift? I've considered other options, but for the price, they are hard to compete with.
I was leaning towards the same tires I am running now - the BFG KM/2 but in a 38.5x14.5 size, or possibly the Interco TSL SX for about half the cost. What backspacing would be required for a tire of this width?
Again, please save me your negative feedback, and thank you for your help!
The questions you ask sound like you might not have thought this through too much or at the very least, a rig that size might be beyond your mechanical aptitude to build. Not saying that's the case, obviously I don't know you, but that's how it sounds. 4.88s on 38s would be too tall. I've got 4.88s on my 33s and it handles highway driving fine. 70-75 is not a problem.
Also telling people to save the negative feedback while asking advice is silly. Asking advice means you are unsure and want to hear what to do and how to do it. That would include reasons for and against.
If you plan on running those tires you need to think about how your axles will hold up to the tire size. 35 is max on stock axles. You can choose not to listen and design it your way and grenade your axles or do a little research. I personally like the tall lift and big tires idea. But I would not sacrifice my drive train over it. Just some thing to think about. A few more specs would also help to get you better answers. When running that big of a tire there is more to deal with then what gears and wheels do I need.
i agree with making sure the axles you have can handle the size tires you want to run. And for you gearing question...
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e256/OnlyInMyXJ22/Random stuff/gear_ratio_chart.gif
sorry i couldnt just post the pic. havnt figued that out yet.
driving a rig that big in rhode island is dumb. ive done it, i wont do it again. constantly worrying about getting pulled over... then getting pulled over.
it wasnt til I brought it down to 35's on a 4" lift with flares was i able to drive in this state again lol.
that and your axles will explode
and thaT much lift with that much tire, on STOCK WIDTH axles is tippy as fawk, even dangerous on the street.
and anything larger than a 33 makes the trails around here boring, so be prepared to do some driving.
aside from that, do it up, just make sure you get round tires and build up the rest of the rig to handle it. 5.38 gears are much better suited for tires that large as well.
call it negative feedback if you want, but its the truth. i saved you my opinions on big lifts and iron rock garbage.
^ Agreed. Anymore than 35s on the road is really pushing it.
Nothing to do with actually being able to do it, have it drive smoothly, etc. All those issues can be sorted out. It's being able to do it legally without getting pulled over/passing inspection that are the issues.
None of these were argumentative or rude. They told you your idea wasn't wise, but they also backed it with reasons why.
Oh boy, knew this would happen. Well, here we go.
Sorry for the lack of detail.
Axles
I currently have empty D44 Housing trussed with covers waiting for internals. I know most would recommend D60 or higher, but for the type of wheeling I do, a Dana 35 has held up for two years on 33/35's.
I'm working with a local shop for the brakes. I'll be putting discs on both axles, but still undecided between conversion kits / junkyard parts.
I'm looking into OX lockers for the same reason others have as well. I like the idea of avoiding a single point of failure as well as the 'feel' of mechanically locking your differential.
Gearing
I remain undecided on gearing. Obviously 38" tires require deeper gears especially when stuck behind a stock 4.0, but I don't want to be SO low that I can't drive it on the highway need-be. That chart you linked me makes me feel better about 4.88's, and like I said, I will EVENTUALLY modify the 231 for some crawling ratios. So knowing that, would 4.88's allow me to 'cruise' at 60?
Again, let me worry about the logistics of driving a taller rig. I've driven daily drivers with 36"+ tires since I was 16 years old. I've learned the road manners of these types of vehicles, and in my opinion -- If you're going fast enough to flip the vehicle under normal conditions, it's user error and not the vehicle's. I have a place to get it inspected, and have never once been pulled over for being too 'tall'. Hell, right down the road from me is a NEIT student with 40's on a 16-20" lift who drives around proudly - The only time he got pulled over is when he left the state.
Lifting a rig this high has it's obvious downfalls, and I have weighed these against what my image of an XJ should be. Everyone likes their truck different.
Saying you "have a place to get it inspected" sounds shady as hell, like you know it's not going to pass inspection but have an illegal hookup. You know we don't condone illegal activities here, right? So why would you ask us for help?
If you are already set in your ways and don't want to hear what people have to say then why ask a question? If you are looking for someone to hold your hand and tell you that everything is going to be ok and magically work then go talk to your mom. Now as already stated you will need to go with stronger axles, and no not talking about D44's, if you are going to be running 38's or larger might as well go 60/60 or 60/14. As for the gears 5:38's would be much better. And with the bigger axles might want to start looking at something like what ruffstuff sells as far as link kits go for the front and you can always stick with leafs in the rear if you like.
Here, you're given advice on how to do it, even though the poster doesn't think it's a good idea. How can you complain about that?
a dana30 and 44 are still going to explode. with the 30 you are limited to 4.88s however, so i guess you are stuck with it. but even with 5.38s and 38's i wish i had deeper gearing. i originally did the 5.38's for a smaller tire.
you will get up to 60mph, but it will suck.
when i was on 35s i ran about 4" of lift or so, one day i was doing about 40mph around a gentle curve and some chick pulled out from the side of the road and clipped my rear passenger tire sending me sideways on dry pavement for about 50 feet. i felt like i was going over there, let alone if i was any taller and on stock axles (i have a 44 and 60 that are about 64" wms-wms). I did nothing wrong, there was no driver error in my part, shit happens and i was lucky.
That and i like to get nutty in my rig.
Ive been pulled enough times i have lost count, been to court a few times over it. Mostly in Johnston because they run thier own thing there and pull over anything they dont like and at least get the court fee out of you.
I was just giving you my opinion and tryin to help ya out.
and to answer your backspacing question. You would need some significant backspacing to make the rig stable enough, but once you get that far out, your scrub radius is pretty intense and there is way too much stress on the dana30 hubs and ball joints to safely run it IMO. So i cant give you a number there and feel good anout it.
And I would stay away from the sx's if you want it to be comfortable ride, big bias, oval shaped tires leave something to be desired on a daily driver, especially a light, 1/4 ton xj.
if you are doing an axle swap you are straight up tarded to sling a heavier axle using the iron rock setup. It will probably even be a challenge makign it work with the slightly larger diff of a dana44, nevermind a dana60. thier "y" is one solid piece, unlike others who use 2 arms to make thier radius arms.
That's exactly why I sold/selling my IRO long arms. I'm putting in a HPD44 and trying to get the Y link over the larger center housing is too much extra work IMO. I think it's easier to go 3 link with the upper on the passenger side, no worries about welding a bracket to the housing. No stock brackets, raised lower control arm mounts, high steer so track bar mount is raised and upper passenger mount moved out to make a little extra room for the exhaust crossover tube. I had no issues with the IRO kit but couldn't see spending the extra time and effort to make custom brackets to use their caster adjuster when adjustable arms are so easy.
And yet more helpful info on you plan, what parts may not work, etc
Don't take negative feedback as an assault on you; you asked for our advice and we will give you our advice as best we can. If we think it's a bad idea, especially if we have experience with it, we'll let you know. Would you rather have a bunch of people who just blindly go along with every idea tossed their way or people who gave the best advice they were able?
assgas:
