- Location
- Virginia City, NV
I know the pinion angle is not really an issue as I will have manual hubs I can disengage. My only concern is this is a low pinion axle. I want to try and keep the yoke out of the rocks.
Dana 70 front
- Thread starter GordoSmasho
- Start date
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
if it does get too bad the yokes will actually contact and start to grind each other until they self clearance. I used to have a scout with good caster but no turned knuckles on like 10" of lift and the front shaft would grind and bind on itself.
At first glance many shafts look close to the same since its hard to see a less than 1" different in shaft diameter , but a 35 spline 1.5" diameter shafts compared to a 27 spline 1.18" diameter shaft is night and day. Also, the d60 806 Ujoints make 760s look like little kids toys
BTW those leaf perches are scary weird man. What the hell is that nonsense? looked like someone had no idea what they were doing with it
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- Location
- Virginia City, NV
Yeah. My gues is it was on a tractor or something. Doesn't look like anything even a hillbilly would consider roadworthy.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
They might have been for a bolt on radius arm or something. Or might have bolted directly to the frame, being industrial equipment. No idea, really.
Since the shafts are gently tapered down to that small diameter I don't see much issue with it. If they break, you can always replace them.
Since the shafts are gently tapered down to that small diameter I don't see much issue with it. If they break, you can always replace them.
Hoooper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hayward, CA
yeah I get that, I was referring just to the necked down part which is pretty small in comparison. The shafts are obviously bigger where it matters.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
ah yes, at that point in the shafts they really do look the same
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
I'll get some better shots and measurements of the shafts tonight. I'll probably pull it apart tonight. Strip it bare so the housing is easier to move around.
- Location
- Reno, Nevada
Interesting axle find. I read your concerns, which I think are valid points but I would also consider the following before sinking any money into it.
#1 Are you sure there are locker options for this particular Dana 70? Because we all know Limited Slips are next to worthless when traction really matters. So are you content with having an open diff or what are your plans?
#2 Clearance. I agree clearance above the axle will probably become an issue at lower lift heights. That is one big center section even trimmed. But I also think you won't be happy with under axle clearance if you just stick with 37's. Dana 70's have a 10.5" ring gear so even with a shaved housing, that is 3/4" less clearance than any Dana 60. I'm happy with the clearance my ProRock 60 has running 37's but I do hit it a lot, mostly due to driver error. Any less though and I don't think I'd be happy.
#3 Make sure you research all shaft / hubs / brake / steering options before spending any money in case something isn't what you expect.
If it doesn't work out, it would probably make a good rear-steer axle. :laugh3:
#1 Are you sure there are locker options for this particular Dana 70? Because we all know Limited Slips are next to worthless when traction really matters. So are you content with having an open diff or what are your plans?
#2 Clearance. I agree clearance above the axle will probably become an issue at lower lift heights. That is one big center section even trimmed. But I also think you won't be happy with under axle clearance if you just stick with 37's. Dana 70's have a 10.5" ring gear so even with a shaved housing, that is 3/4" less clearance than any Dana 60. I'm happy with the clearance my ProRock 60 has running 37's but I do hit it a lot, mostly due to driver error. Any less though and I don't think I'd be happy.
#3 Make sure you research all shaft / hubs / brake / steering options before spending any money in case something isn't what you expect.
If it doesn't work out, it would probably make a good rear-steer axle. :laugh3:
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
So my findings. From tonight's tear down.
Passenger spindle
Would have said its in decent shape but it's welded to the caliper bracket and that plate thingy.
Axle shaft measurements:
70 neck down section mid shaft
30 mid shaft (thicker than the splines
70 just before the splines
35spline inner
30spline outer
Joint comparison
Kingpins
Lowers
Passenger spindle
Would have said its in decent shape but it's welded to the caliper bracket and that plate thingy.
Axle shaft measurements:
70 neck down section mid shaft
30 mid shaft (thicker than the splines
70 just before the splines
35spline inner
30spline outer
Joint comparison
Kingpins
Lowers
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- Location
- Virginia City, NV
Tube
Diff
About 6.5" from the center of the tube to the bottom. Plenty of meat there to shave
Some closer shots of the spring perches.
Diff
About 6.5" from the center of the tube to the bottom. Plenty of meat there to shave
Some closer shots of the spring perches.
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
Looks like I could probably loose an inch and a half if I shave a bit off the ring gear. We will see
There is some good crunching in the pinion bearings. My guess as to why the axle was discarded into a scrap bin.
So should I be looking for new shafts as well? They are quite small and the outers are very worn.
Couldn't get the carrier out tonight. Even with a good sized crow bar. It's in there pretty good. Any ideas on how to get it out without a spreader. I know a spreader is what the dana manuals suggest.
There is some good crunching in the pinion bearings. My guess as to why the axle was discarded into a scrap bin.
So should I be looking for new shafts as well? They are quite small and the outers are very worn.
Couldn't get the carrier out tonight. Even with a good sized crow bar. It's in there pretty good. Any ideas on how to get it out without a spreader. I know a spreader is what the dana manuals suggest.
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- Location
- San Diego
stuff a heavy rag in the ring gear and spin the pinion with a pipe wrench until it eats the rag and forces the carrier out.
or put a wrench on one of the ring gear bolts so that as you turn the pinion it wedges it against the case and forces the carrier out.
or put a wrench on one of the ring gear bolts so that as you turn the pinion it wedges it against the case and forces the carrier out.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
3 foot or longer pry bar on the carrier against the housing usually works for me, with lots of soft stuff on the ground to catch it. I wouldnt worry about the shafts looking worn. maybe slap new U joints in though. Id be more worried about the spindles being worn where the bearings ride or the hubs or being cracked or something and having to buy new spindles or hubs(hubs, not lockouts)
I have also used ratcheting straps wrapped around the carrier for leverage too. also give it a whack or 20 with a dead blow.
I have also used ratcheting straps wrapped around the carrier for leverage too. also give it a whack or 20 with a dead blow.
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
Well I know I'm going to have to pickup kingpin rebuilds, spindles, hubs, lockouts, rotors, caliper brackets, and calipers at the very least. Does anyone have a good line on where to find all of that stuff in one place? Parts mike said they would have everything. Are they a good spot to find all of this stuff.
Im deffinately not spending anything on this axle till it has been well planed out. I'm going to start with just the housing and throw it under my mock up rig and take some serious measurements.
I don't know if there are any lockers for this axle. I was planning on just welding up the spiders as an orb O traction. This carrier is set up similar to the 14b. It's a two piece. With manual hubs I think this might be the cheapes/easiest way to go. But also I know this carrier fits and works with this housing. I'll be adding hydro assist for steering so that will not be an issue on the trail.
As far as clearances go it looks like I can shave about 1.5" off the bottom and maybe an inch off the top. It's at 6.5" to the bottom lip from the center of the tube. An inch and a half should but me in d44 range as far as clearance under the axle. I'm taking a good look at over axle clearances first in mockup.
As far as steering and that stuff. I'm not doing hysteer. I don't think it would be worth the effort for me. It will be over the knuckle. I'm more worried about the arm I will need to get the proper range of motion. The arms on the knuckles are huge compared the the stock pitman arm. Any suddestions there?
Im deffinately not spending anything on this axle till it has been well planed out. I'm going to start with just the housing and throw it under my mock up rig and take some serious measurements.
I don't know if there are any lockers for this axle. I was planning on just welding up the spiders as an orb O traction. This carrier is set up similar to the 14b. It's a two piece. With manual hubs I think this might be the cheapes/easiest way to go. But also I know this carrier fits and works with this housing. I'll be adding hydro assist for steering so that will not be an issue on the trail.
As far as clearances go it looks like I can shave about 1.5" off the bottom and maybe an inch off the top. It's at 6.5" to the bottom lip from the center of the tube. An inch and a half should but me in d44 range as far as clearance under the axle. I'm taking a good look at over axle clearances first in mockup.
As far as steering and that stuff. I'm not doing hysteer. I don't think it would be worth the effort for me. It will be over the knuckle. I'm more worried about the arm I will need to get the proper range of motion. The arms on the knuckles are huge compared the the stock pitman arm. Any suddestions there?
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
Pitman arm probably be waggy or wj. Parts mike is good but pricey. I have found cheaper parts. I would imagine Chevy 60 outer stuff would be cheap and plentiful on pirate classifieds and craigslist
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Taking the kingpins out, this trick might be handy... http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/556811-dana-60-kingpin-removal-easy-way.html
Trick that works is in the first post. All the tricks that sometimes work, and sometimes screw you over even worse are in the following 3 pages.
Trick that works is in the first post. All the tricks that sometimes work, and sometimes screw you over even worse are in the following 3 pages.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
shop around and spend time finding cheaper spindles, like guys selling them off brand new for cheap as their spares.
Spindles can easily get up to 100$+ each,
lockouts , well the yukons aren't cheap. I dunno, 200$ + for those
hubs can be 40-100+ each
calipers should be like 25$ each or so
rotors around 30$ each
kingpin rebuilds I have no clue, search pirate for that.
run all the numbers for total cost of axle at that point, and see where you need to be on your prices, then sit and wait for them to show up on CL or pirate or rock auto or somewhere online for cheap.
Spindles can easily get up to 100$+ each,
lockouts , well the yukons aren't cheap. I dunno, 200$ + for those
hubs can be 40-100+ each
calipers should be like 25$ each or so
rotors around 30$ each
kingpin rebuilds I have no clue, search pirate for that.
run all the numbers for total cost of axle at that point, and see where you need to be on your prices, then sit and wait for them to show up on CL or pirate or rock auto or somewhere online for cheap.
Rob D
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pittsburg CA
Gordo, just give it to me... It'll be a perfect match to my smooth bottom 70 I have sitting in my garage 
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
I know where you live...
Rob D
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pittsburg CA
ooops! Did I say I had a 70? No, I meant a 20, yeah, a narrow track 20...:gag:
As for lockers, you have the best option if you want a Detroit. The 2 peice carrier has the "cheap" (around $400) Detroits that fit inside the case. There are quite a few options if replacing the carrier as well. Everything from 32, 35, 37 and 40 spline stuff available in ARB's or Detroits. Gears are limited though. They have 4.88's, 5.13's then jump to 5.86's, 6.17's and 7.17's. I haven't found anybody that makes 5.38's for the 70's. Also, make sure you know what offset you have for the pinion since the 70's have 3 different options .500", .625" and .969". Most have the .625" offset though....Not that I've been doing any research into dana 70's though, since I have a dana 20...
And, by the way, I have a case spreader that should make getting the carrier out much easier, if you can't get it out. I know it will fit a 70 but haven't tried it on one yet, so...
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