Dana 44 swap from a Nissan Titan

N

NorCalRaven

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
Howdy y'all,

So I found a rear D44 from a 2008 Titan at the local repair shop. Owner said he'd take 25 (twenty-five) bucks for it so I'm wondering if anyone knows if it would be possible to swap my Chrysler 8.25 for it. I believe the Titan's is based on the "Super 44" used in some Corvette and Vipers, but I am new to working on drivetrains and have no real idea what kind of compatibility issues may exist with the XJ's transfer case/driveshaft. My friend can weld in new mounts for it or suspension brackets if necessary. I know Yukon makes 3.73s and 4.10s for them so I don't mind being stuck in 2wd for a couple months.

If it isn't compatible, is there anything useful in it for a future D44 that is?

I'm a bit of a dewclaw so any help would be greatly appreciated 😎
 
I had to look at Rock Auto. The bolt pattern is 6 on 5.5. This is probably like an Isuzu Trooper axle. Also, a D44. I am putting one in my MJ. So, to that extent what would your front axle pattern be? My solution is a axle from The FS Wagoneer or Cherokee SJ. Actually, mine was I wanted a Passenger side drop axle. So, I got one from a FS Waggy. Then the Isuzu matched that. A lot of headache though.
 
Sounds like a headache! Glad to hear you got it ironed out though 👍

I figure I would use 2" adapters as I was planning on staying at 10.5 anyway ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
Any issues you would have between the transfer case and driveshaft should be taken care of by a custom made driveshaft. That will be the same regardless of what axle you swap in.

What is the width of the Titan axle? If it is too wide that will be the biggest challenge. Especially if you need to add in adapters.

You should also give thought to the brakes. I assume the Titan has disc brakes. How do the bores of those calipers compare to the bores of ZJ calipers? Or Ford Explorer calipers? Folks seem to be successful swapping in those axles.

Are there options available for lockers for that axle?
 
I would edit my last post but apparently I'm not allowed to yet...

I'm having trouble gleaning any info on the axle from the net so I'm just going to pick it up today and see what I'd be working with.

Also a little off topic but is it a stupid idea to cut some half inch notches in the 3" leaf springs from an F350 in order to make them fit the XJ pack's clamps and ubolts? I'm on a cojone-crushing budget and they have a set at the same repair shop... hauling trailers on my stock (read: inverted) leaf springs is rather painful
 
Anak said:
How do the bores of those calipers compare to the bores of ZJ calipers? Or Ford Explorer calipers? Folks seem to be successful swapping in those axles.

Are there options available for lockers for that axle?
Click to expand...

There are lockers, yes. As far as brakes I believe someone mentioned that they're beefy enough to possibly require a larger master cylinder but I can't recall what swap was being discussed. I've heard the ZJ brake conversion tends to be biased toward the rear so maybe it's a similar fix
 
Sorry for all the posts, guys... I'm not sure how long it will take before I'm allowed to edit posts.

In reply to 75SV1, the 79.5 width is for the entire vehicle which could even include fender flares
 
Width is what I would be worried about.

To my eye a Titan is substantially wider than an XJ, closer to a full-size.
 
Anak said:
Width is what I would be worried about.

To my eye a Titan is substantially wider than an XJ, closer to a full-size.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's definitely too wide... I haven't been around any Titan's so I wasn't sure, thought they were like a Tacoma but they're more like a tundra.

Thanks for the help, friends! Y'all saved me a day of lugging around an axle I can't use...
 
NorCalRaven said:
Howdy y'all,

So I found a rear D44 from a 2008 Titan at the local repair shop. Owner said he'd take 25 (twenty-five) bucks for it so I'm wondering if anyone knows if it would be possible to swap my Chrysler 8.25 for it.


Why do you want to even swap the 8.25? That's a good axle and perfectly strong for most XJ's. You're not really gaining anything from a swap except for disc brakes. But for less money than a swap, you can add disc brakes to the 8.25. There are plenty of write ups showing how to do this.

You don't have as many locker choices, but there are still a lot that will work in the 8.25.

And yes, in case you're wondering, I own a 8.25 and two D44's in my XJ's. I would take the 8.25 any day of the week over an axle swap, unless you want to do Tons and ridiculously large tires. You can easily run up to 35's and not have issues unless you beat the snot out of them.

Just curious as to your thought process.
Click to expand...
 
the titan "D44" is called a M266, not really a D44 and parts cant swap from a D44 to a M226. that being said, there are gears, lockers and a pretty big aftermarket for the M226.

the M226 is used in the older gen titans (not sure about current ones), and manual transmission xterra (sprung under) and frontiers (sprung over) that ar 2005+ body style.

the xterra and frontier M226 is 6" narrower than the titan M226. xterra and frontier M226 uses a 6x4.5" bolt pattern.

T
 
JonnyCat63 said:
Just curious as to your thought process.
Click to expand...

I guess I'm under the impression that the D44 or 8.8 are ideal for running 35s so if I had the opportunity to swap one in (especially if it's cheap) that it would be worth the effort? I know the Jeepspeed XJs can run races with 8.25/d30 but as I'm planning on touring Alaska in mine I figured stronger is always better. Maybe less worry about losing an axle shaft in the wilderness.
 
NorCalRaven said:
I guess I'm under the impression that the D44 or 8.8 are ideal for running 35s so if I had the opportunity to swap one in (especially if it's cheap) that it would be worth the effort? I know the Jeepspeed XJs can run races with 8.25/d30 but as I'm planning on touring Alaska in mine I figured stronger is always better. Maybe less worry about losing an axle shaft in the wilderness.
Click to expand...

In my opinion, the D44 isn't any stronger than the 8.25. On the 8.25, the axle tubes are bigger, and the housing looks stronger to me. I think the ring gear on the D44 is only 1/2" bigger. It's easier to set up the gears in a 8.25. I guess you could make a case that the D44 is not a c-clip axle, but I don't know if that is a big advantage.

I just don't think you're gaining anything with that type of an axle swap, especially if you're on a tight budget. The 8.8 is a good axle, too. But an axle swap always takes more time and money than you think. The 8.25 is fine for 35's, put some stronger axle shafts in if you're worried about it.

Regardless, It's a moot point anyway, the D30 is going to be your weak link with 35's. You're going to have to beef that one up more so than a 8.25 if you're worried about breakage. And you'll also have to be gentle on the throttle, too. If you want a D30 to hold up reliable with 35's, you'll have to consider sleeves and/or a truss, chromo axle shafts, or RCV's, and maybe some C gussets. And don't forget about re-gearing, too. You're going to want at least 4.88's to run 35's.

Either way in order to make it stronger, it's not going to be cheap. IMO, keep the 8.25, and spend money upgrading both axles in order to do it right if you're planning on running 35's.

On my 99 I built a couple of years ago, I spent well over $6,000.00 to build both axles, D30/8.25 for 33's. This included, trusses, lockers, axle shafts, re-gearing, bearings, driveshafts, WJ knuckle swap, custom drag ling and tie rod, custom track bar, and a variety of other parts. Everything was new.

Now I brought the stripped axles to a shop where they welded the trusses and set up the gears. But that labor wasn't even expensive for them to do it. It was all the parts that cost a ton. I could have saved welding the trusses myself, but I didn't want to take a chance on warping the axles, so I just had them do it. And having someone who knows how to set up gears is well worth the money spent. It isn't even that much for someone else to do it. After I got the axles back, I still had to install the axles, brakes, unit bearings, etc, and all the steering and track bar stuff, too.

Anyway, like I said, it always takes more time and money than you think. But if you want reliability and strength, you can't do it on the cheap.
 
NorCalRaven said:
I guess I'm under the impression that the D44 or 8.8 are ideal for running 35s so if I had the opportunity to swap one in (especially if it's cheap) that it would be worth the effort? I know the Jeepspeed XJs can run races with 8.25/d30 but as I'm planning on touring Alaska in mine I figured stronger is always better. Maybe less worry about losing an axle shaft in the wilderness.
Click to expand...


Dont listen to internet hype. The 29spl 8.25 is perfectly capable to run 35s. Get a full case locker and alloys and run it. They are plenty strong if you dont drive rock trails like its a bouncer.

D30/8.25 combo is practically bullitproof on 33s with full case lockers and alloys.
 
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