Dana 30 Build: Sleeve, Truss etc.... for 35's

[sunburned]

I would never put RCVs in a 30...

Yet you bought the most expensive shafts and u-joints in the history of the world.

Warn hub conversion with warn inner shafts- 1500$
CTM U-joints- 500$
spare inner/outer warn shaft~ 800$


I got my RCVs for $800 shipped. And they are freaking bulletproof.



As for expensive labor, I have a friend who did most of my gear/locker installs so I saved a ton there. Made the mistake of trying out a local shop when I needed something done quick. After I blew up the front ring gear, I went to Independent 4X in Richmond to fix it. Paid for a new gearset, bearings, and install and walked out with a $1000 bill. And my ARB still leaked when I got it back... :smsoap:

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

Yet you bought the most expensive shafts and u-joints in the history of the world.

Warn hub conversion with warn inner shafts- 1500$
CTM U-joints- 500$
spare inner/outer warn shaft~ 800$

I laughed at that..too:heart:

 

[POLAR_JEEP_04]

lol you just got sunBURNED

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

Yet you bought the most expensive shafts and u-joints in the history of the world.

Warn hub conversion with warn inner shafts- 1500$
CTM U-joints- 500$
spare inner/outer warn shaft~ 800$


I got my RCVs for $800 shipped. And they are freaking bulletproof.

Except those parts he has he did not buy new or for even half or retail value. I want to say he got an ARB, warn hub conversion with CTM's, spare shafts, and vanco brakes for less than the cost of a new hub conversion. His price is based on all new parts. Which he did not pay. But if one were to cost every part on there based on full retail, you get a huge number

 

[xjtrailrider]

I got my RCVs for $800 shipped. And they are freaking bulletproof.

I paid $600 for mine, 1st production set, purchased through RCV. Bobby Long sent them to me as a test set. I had an issue with the inner spline pitch so Bobby sent me another set of shafts next day air. I called him on his cell when I found the problem, he was out in his buggy wheelin'. He quickly took care of it. A great guy that will be missed by the off-road world.

 

[rockclimber]

Except those parts he has he did not buy new or for even half or retail value. I want to say he got an ARB, warn hub conversion with CTM's, spare shafts, and vanco brakes for less than the cost of a new hub conversion. His price is based on all new parts. Which he did not pay. But if one were to cost every part on there based on full retail, you get a huge number

this^

which I tried to explain.

I've long since lost the price breakdown for every component I purchased.

that is the part of building any axle that is a huge variable. used part prices cannot be compared easily.

 

[markw]

I found it's better not to add things up. Off the top of my head I'm into shafts for 450, gears for 150, "kit" for 100. Lockright for 250??, so around 900 bucks in my front axle, it's worked since 2006. I did wear out a lockright, the jeep is on 33's and won't go any bigger.

 

[sunburned]

I paid $600 for mine, 1st production set, purchased through RCV. Bobby Long sent them to me as a test set. I had an issue with the inner spline pitch so Bobby sent me another set of shafts next day air. I called him on his cell when I found the problem, he was out in his buggy wheelin'. He quickly took care of it. A great guy that will be missed by the off-road world.

Nice. Got mine very early on from a dealer that had just opened an account with RCV. When I first tried to install them, the boots were hitting the unit bearing bolts pretty bad, enough that I took them back out and emailed RCV. They told me they recently found that issue with other testers and immediately sent me a new set of boots and never asked for the old ones back. Great customer service. Thankfully I kept the original boots so I could use them later, just took a grinder to clearance them. Word to anyone with RCV's, if your unit bearings start going back, replace them before it tears up the boot.

I found it's better not to add things up. Off the top of my head I'm into shafts for 450, gears for 150, "kit" for 100. Lockright for 250??, so around 900 bucks in my front axle, it's worked since 2006. I did wear out a lockright, the jeep is on 33's and won't go any bigger.

I hate thinking about how much money I had in the D30, not to mention the rest of the jeep. It really hurt to sell it for less than I paid for it stock, not including a shit ton of mods.

 

[Jeepedo129]

i cant believe i read this whole thread.....
a built 30 is the right axle for some people, i'd even venture to say "most".. however "built" is gears, locker, brakes, shafts, and some strengthening.
as well as a 60 of any flavor is NOT the right axle for most people, because most people will likely never venture beyond 35s.
there are high-dollar axles for people with the wallet to do it, and low-buck axles for the guys who DIY and research things like parts interchangeability.
your own driving style is what dictates your needs, not the wallet.
build what you want, dont whine if you've spent too much, and don't dislocate your shoulder patting yourself on the back for your low-buck investment in the best D60 ever...
your jeep doesnt wheel where his does, and you both have different needs. build accordingly.
personally i'm a fan of a well-built Turdy, and that fits within my needs.

Finally someone with some common sense. I read this whole thread and the whole time thinking "what does it matter what someone else spends their money on?" You guys are making a huge deal over who gets to sit on top of the ant hill.

Dana 30, dana 60. Pros cons what ever. That's the great thing about opinions, every one gets their very own.

 

[denverbusa]

Dana 30, dana 60. Pros cons what ever. That's the great thing about opinions, every one gets their very own.

My opinion and $2 you can get a good cup of coffee!

 

[nosigma]

I little update:

Driver side inner C gussets (one on each side) and the gusset that runs between the C and truss. The spring mounting surface is towards the front of the axle. The notch in the truss is for the chassis side track bar bracket. I didnt want to move it forward on the chassis since it is welded in place with a LOT of reinforcement (see DW thread). The notch allows me to move the axle forward about an inch and a half.



This picture is looking down onto the truss from the passenger side towards driver side. The track bar mount sits in front of the axle and is tied into the truss, the passenger side spring mounting plate and then underneath (next pic) via a skid-support to the axle tube.



I thought long and hard about setting up the track bar like was done on the Team rig, mounting it to the inner C on the passenger side but that requires moving the spring back another couple inches and most importantly moving the TB frame mount forward. After solving a two year DW problem I didnt want to mess with the TB mount. This set up gives me a 28 inch TB that is parrallel. I will get some bumpsteer off road but folks have run shorter TB's and said it was not a problem. In the picture below the TB looks like its too high, but the jig was set up using 3/8th rod. The frame side (high side) of the 1.5" TB tubing is 3/4 of an inch high I didnt lower the jig to account for the tube diameter when the pic was taken.





I dropped the whole thing off at Chaos Fab in Berryville VA today. My welder is a 110V MIG and while multipass welding is OK on some things I want the C gussetts, TB bracket and truss to cast center section done by a pro who has experience with pre heat, slow cool down and the proper welder.

John

 

[nosigma]

As part of this build I am making a new cross member that sits flush with the bottom of the frame rails. I am also installing a rubicon 4:1 box using a clocking ring built from an AW4 extension housing. Stole a lot of this from BS Fab. I am also recessing the exhaust up into the floor so it will all be well above the bottom of the frame rails.

Rather than repost it all here I am going to be lazy and link to a thread on the Northern VA Jeepers Fabrication page.

Good tech even if a lot of it was stolen from BS Fab, smart dudes.

John

http://novajeepers.net/index.php?topic=19484.0

 

[Jeepedo129]

Looks good. :thumbup:

 

[markw]

I'm looking at the dates on the pictures and thinking, man this is so much easier to do now days with the trusses from companies like Artec and Clayton.

 

[Boostwerks.com]

Dynatrac Pro Rock 44 or rockclimbers 30. Hrmm.

Hopefully someone learns from his mistake.

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

If you require a dana 60 to not break, you shouldn't be wheeling.

I Completely Disagree.. Infact, My opinion is quite opposite of yours, If you can manage to wheel with ANY Hp30 and 35s, for a long period of time without braking the Pinion/Ring teeth.. Than you're not "Wheeling" :spin1:

As someone who has a $3k HP30, I can tell you I'm on my 3rd R&P..

$3k Is no Labor.. I could of Built a 44 for the same.. Or a set of 60s for about $2k more..

But.. I'll continue to replace R&P's Annually Until I find the coin to start over.. as a Built 30 is Scrap metal in the Re-sale department

This finally happened.. I'm currently building a HP60/sterling for 37s

Hopefully someone learns from his mistake.

I know I have.. :eye:

 

[cal]

I Completely Disagree.. Infact, My opinion is quite opposite of yours, If you can manage to wheel with ANY Hp30 and 35s, for a long period of time without braking the Pinion/Ring teeth.. Than you're not "Wheeling" :spin1:

I'd agree with you, but then we'd both be wrong.

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

I'd agree with you, but then we'd both be wrong.

I'm better than you.:cheers:

 

[cal]

Your favorite operating system sucks!

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

Your favorite operating system sucks!

It's more reliable than my dana 30 was:spin1: