By the way, that picture is pretty much at full compression, so the shackle is pushed back about as far as it goes. My Rusty's 2" lift shackles would have hit the box before that. If you didn't know, Chevy shackles prived about .75" of lift if I am not mistaken.
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Dakotas on Ranchos...HELP.. (PICS)
- Thread starter Lucas
- Start date
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
Have you got a pic with it at max droop?
Lucas
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ZOO YORK CITY
"Max" wont be that far since the shocks are severly limiting how far the axle droops. I am going to relocate the shock mounts. I took some preliminary measurements and I think I can have the studs about 1 inch down from the axle tube and have mad flex with factory bumpstops and still have a little comression travel in the shocks. Plus I need to get an extended rear brakeline.
I did a mini flex on the drivers side to see the TC/SY interface, and there was still lots of SY engaging, Im sure with a slightly longer DS everything will be fine.
I did a mini flex on the drivers side to see the TC/SY interface, and there was still lots of SY engaging, Im sure with a slightly longer DS everything will be fine.
Lucas
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ZOO YORK CITY
Hey Bucky, I dont know what you're adding the dakota laves to, so I cant really say. The main eye of the Dakota packs has more arch than the second leaf of my ranchos that was causing a crappy ride, so I think adding it may casue the same effect.
Try sticking in all the leaves and see if you like the results of the lift/ride quality. If it sucks like it did in mine, then just unbolt everything, let the axle droop til the center pin has cleared the Dakota main leaf, and slide that sucker out.
BTW, im running the dakota overload leaf upside down.
Try sticking in all the leaves and see if you like the results of the lift/ride quality. If it sucks like it did in mine, then just unbolt everything, let the axle droop til the center pin has cleared the Dakota main leaf, and slide that sucker out.
BTW, im running the dakota overload leaf upside down.
dclark
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- East Texas
Wow! This is one of the best Lift Threads I've found. This is great for those of us with less experience.
What year model Chevy shackels?
Excuse my ignorance but what does SYE stand for?
Thanks for the info and the pics are great too.
T>D>C
What year model Chevy shackels?
Excuse my ignorance but what does SYE stand for?
Thanks for the info and the pics are great too.
T>D>C
To be honest, I have no idea what year Chevy Shackles they are. My friend put 1/2 ton Chevy springs on his toyota and the wrecking yard included the shackles for free. The narrow (frame) end needed to be narrowed about 1/4-3/8" to fit in the pocket in the frame. I am pretty sure that any 1/2 ton chevy you will find in the wrecking yard will have them.
SYE stands for slip yoke eliminator which is somewhat of a mis nomer since it doesn't eliminate the slip in the rear drive shaft. When the susmensions compresses and estends the driveshaft has to either legnthen or compress slightly so jeeps have a male splined part coming out of the transfer case, where a female yoke slides over. After the female yoke on the driveshaft, there is the u-joint. This sort of is a stupid design becuase drive shaft wants to have some verticle movement, not just in and out of the t-case. Make sense so far? SO when you lift, it adds more stress to the tail shaft on the t-case and also, this design causes the drive shaft to be shorter than it could be. So...a SYE gets rid of the splined shaft on the t-case and replaces it with a fixed yoke and moves the slip to the actual driveshaft exactly like your front driveshaft. If you compare your two drive shafts and how they coneect to the transfer case, you will see the difference. So in short, a SYE will change the rear shaft to match the front shaft. Check out http://www.4xshaft.com/ for probably a more coherent explination.
Bryan
dclark: if anyone gives you crap for asking "newbie" questions, screw 'em. None of us were born knowing all this crap and we all had to ask alot of questions.
SYE stands for slip yoke eliminator which is somewhat of a mis nomer since it doesn't eliminate the slip in the rear drive shaft. When the susmensions compresses and estends the driveshaft has to either legnthen or compress slightly so jeeps have a male splined part coming out of the transfer case, where a female yoke slides over. After the female yoke on the driveshaft, there is the u-joint. This sort of is a stupid design becuase drive shaft wants to have some verticle movement, not just in and out of the t-case. Make sense so far? SO when you lift, it adds more stress to the tail shaft on the t-case and also, this design causes the drive shaft to be shorter than it could be. So...a SYE gets rid of the splined shaft on the t-case and replaces it with a fixed yoke and moves the slip to the actual driveshaft exactly like your front driveshaft. If you compare your two drive shafts and how they coneect to the transfer case, you will see the difference. So in short, a SYE will change the rear shaft to match the front shaft. Check out http://www.4xshaft.com/ for probably a more coherent explination.
Bryan
dclark: if anyone gives you crap for asking "newbie" questions, screw 'em. None of us were born knowing all this crap and we all had to ask alot of questions.
dclark
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- East Texas
Diesel,
Thanks, that helps a lot.
I apreciate your feedback.
Have a good one.
Thanks, that helps a lot.
I apreciate your feedback.
Have a good one.
Lucas
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ZOO YORK CITY
UPDATE
Ok, didnt want to start a new tread on this. I swapped out my RRO 1.5 inch shackles and put in a set of 3/4 inchers in and kept the 3 degree shim witht he fat end forward, then I took out the Rusty's 405 coils (gave me like 5+ inches) and put in a set of normal Rusty's 3" springs. While I was at it I greased the bushings of the LCAs and the shackles/spring eyes.
Overall it gave me a solid 3" in the front and a little more in the rear but it evens out with the hi-lift and stuff in the back. I gave it a quick alignment and took it for a ride.
sweet
I thought I had almost no vibs before this ordeal, but now its no vibs and SMOOOTH. I didn't think that the CA angles were that bad, but I guess I just got used to the ride at 5". With 2 inches less lift the ride is like butter. The SY engagement is noticeably better, but I still get a little grind if I brake really really hard. The DS angle is lessened a bit, but the real benefit I think is having the Tcase output and the pinion almost paralell. The pinion is just a few degrees lower, but apparently thats a good thing. Cornering is a lot better too!
The rig looks a whole lot shorter, but on the triail I think im just going to armor the hell out of it as I collect more skids and just deal with it. The improved higway ride is well worth it.
Just for reference I now have:
3" Rusty's coils with stock isolator
3" Rancho spring pack Main leaf
2nd and 3d leaves of a Dodge Dakota pack with inverted oveload leaf
3degree rancho shim with fat end forward
Pro comp LCAs
NO VIBS!!!
Ok, didnt want to start a new tread on this. I swapped out my RRO 1.5 inch shackles and put in a set of 3/4 inchers in and kept the 3 degree shim witht he fat end forward, then I took out the Rusty's 405 coils (gave me like 5+ inches) and put in a set of normal Rusty's 3" springs. While I was at it I greased the bushings of the LCAs and the shackles/spring eyes.
Overall it gave me a solid 3" in the front and a little more in the rear but it evens out with the hi-lift and stuff in the back. I gave it a quick alignment and took it for a ride.
sweet
I thought I had almost no vibs before this ordeal, but now its no vibs and SMOOOTH. I didn't think that the CA angles were that bad, but I guess I just got used to the ride at 5". With 2 inches less lift the ride is like butter. The SY engagement is noticeably better, but I still get a little grind if I brake really really hard. The DS angle is lessened a bit, but the real benefit I think is having the Tcase output and the pinion almost paralell. The pinion is just a few degrees lower, but apparently thats a good thing. Cornering is a lot better too!
The rig looks a whole lot shorter, but on the triail I think im just going to armor the hell out of it as I collect more skids and just deal with it. The improved higway ride is well worth it.
Just for reference I now have:
3" Rusty's coils with stock isolator
3" Rancho spring pack Main leaf
2nd and 3d leaves of a Dodge Dakota pack with inverted oveload leaf
3degree rancho shim with fat end forward
Pro comp LCAs
NO VIBS!!!