D44 front swap

[CrazyXJ]

swapping in a 44hp front out of a 79 f150. what is the best way to remove the diamond shap chunk of steel on the tubes from where the old Ford radius arms mounted. it almost looks like it is a cast piece that they slide on the tubes and weld in place is that true? ot is it not removeable and just needs to ground down to the diameter of the rest of the tube?

 

[Roxtar]

Depends on your plans for the axle.
If you're leaving it full width, Grind/mill them down to create a nice flat surface to weld your CA mounts to. (They're cast steel, you can weld to them. Just pre-heat, use high nickle rod, and slow the cooling down)

If you're planning on narrowing you have to retube.

 

[BRIANHO13]

Or one other option is leave it full width and use the Ferd radius arms.

 

[Goatman]

swapping in a 44hp front out of a 79 f150. what is the best way to remove the diamond shap chunk of steel on the tubes from where the old Ford radius arms mounted. it almost looks like it is a cast piece that they slide on the tubes and weld in place is that true? ot is it not removeable and just needs to ground down to the diameter of the rest of the tube?

Earlier year model front D44's had radius arm mounts that could be ground off, leaving just the tube. Later model years, like yours, the mounts are a cast section with no tube underneath it, so it has to be retubed if you want to shorten it and not run radius arms.

 

[88flexj]

Do a little searching before busting out the grinder. There is no tube inside of the cast section. If you are not planning on using the Ford radius arms, then get an earlier 44. I lengthened the RA and put a flex joint on the frame end. Works well, and was an easy swap. Just my $.02

 

[STEELFISH]

I did the same as flex, and I love it.

 

[CrazyXJ]

thanks for the help. I'm leaving it full width and really dont want to use the ford arms. I will just grind them down they don't need to disapear completely just the points on them.

 

[CrazyXJ]

also can any of you tell me where is the best place to get the heims that aren't expensive RE ones are to much i want to do welded ends on axle and adjustible on the frame or should i just build them? can get everything to make them but the weld bungs are hard to find.

 

[Goatman]

If you can't afford RE ends, you're really on a budget. The various johnny joints on the market, RE, Currie, Polyperformance, etc, are the cheapest joints you can get that are strong enough to work. You can get 3/4" hiems for less, but they aren't strong enough for lower arms, and going to 7/8" or 1" heims is more than JJ's.

There are many places that sell joints, weld in bungs, tabs, etc. Try Polyperformance, Spidertrax, and Blue Torch Fab.